I'm the second owner. Previous owner installed a Banks Turbo after purchase from factory.

Motor is an International 6.9 IDI Diesel with 135k original miles.

I had the fuel system on this truck completely overhauled and replaced every part due to a misdiagnoses of the injection pump being the issue. It has a brand new fuel injection pump and low pressure fuel pump which was 2k to get installed. I was still breaking down after that work so I then had the fuel tank sender replaced as they are plastic from the factory and decay over time so that was another $800 and it's run great ever since. I always use diesel Kleen at every fill up as recommended with these older IDI trucks which I learned here on the forum.

It has a brand new glow plug controller and I had all the glow plugs tested at the time of this work and they are all within spec.

It has a sterling 10.25 rear end and front lockers.

Transmission is a C6 heavy duty 3 speed automatic with sparkling clean fluid and hardly any miles on it.
The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop in San Bruno and has less than 8k miles on it.

Tires and brakes are in great shape and the brakes were done right before I bought it.

Banks Turbo works great no pressure leaks, other leaks, or any problems.

The camper is from the eighties and although it was well made at the time it has some dry rot and I figure it only has two or three more good years in it. I did get the fridge and stove working and I have a solar kit I can sell you separately if you want to use the truck for boondocking or camping and avoid using the batteries up front. I mainly bought the truck for it's low miles, 4wd and the rebuilt transmission I wasn't too interested in the cabover.

Cons:

It has some tears in the front can seats I have tried duct taping.

The AC unit is damaged on the top of the camper and duct taped with white tape. I planned on just removing it and patching it and installing a solar panel there. There are some other spots on the camper I have duct taped and caulked.

It needs an ignition switch or possibly a steering wheel actuator. This was quoted by my mechanic at $175 for the switch or $400 or $500 if it's the actuator and he won't know until he's in there. It starts, runs and drives fine without it as the previous owner installed a ignition bypass switch rather than fix it but it's been on my list of things to fix.

The second gas tank the previous owner warned me not to use and I have not diagnosed what's wrong with it, though I suspect it's probably a fuel sender issue and just avoid using the rear tank.

More pics at this craigslist link https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto...673731431.html