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I currently have a 73 390 in my truck. Here's the plan, rebuild it myself in my auto tech class (teach say it takes $1000 to rebuild yourself), RV cam ($300), dual plane intake ($300), 600-650cfm carb ($300). Now here's where **** gets tricky, I have to at least bore it .30, but I'm thinkin I want at least .60, HOWEVER, I also know that if I bore it .80 over I can build a 428 and get sum CJ heads. What is the possibility of being be able to bore it that much? And also, if I only end up goin with a .30 or .60, is it woth it power wise to get a 428 crank for it? Also, does anyone know how much gain I'll have in power over all from a build like this?
i would highly recomend sonic testing the block before over-boring. Some 390's were known to have inconsistent cylinder wall thickness. Does your tech class have its own machine shop? after block and head prep the bill could easily reach that $1000
It is allways worth the 428 crank, 410 pistons and rods... even if you stay with the stock bore... I love my 410 stroker, gobs of low end torque, and good power too...
As Iv read your safe with the .030 over... anything over that you have to get it sonic tested due to bore shift the 360/360 suffered from...
Now here's where **** gets tricky, I have to at least bore it .30, but I'm thinkin I want at least .60, HOWEVER, I also know that if I bore it .80 over I can build a 428 and get sum CJ heads. What is the possibility of being be able to bore it that much? And also, if I only end up goin with a .30 or .60, is it woth it power wise to get a 428 crank for it? Also, does anyone know how much gain I'll have in power over all from a build like this?
typically speaking, boring is done out of need, not desire. I personally do not think it is a good idea to open it up to the max because it virtually leaves your block unusebale should something happen in the future that requires another rebuild.
Why not just go with a bigger block? Check out junkyarddog an see if they have a bigger block & keep what you have as a back up in case something would happen to it.
i would highly recomend sonic testing the block before over-boring. Some 390's were known to have inconsistent cylinder wall thickness. Does your tech class have its own machine shop? after block and head prep the bill could easily reach that $1000
ya i just had my 460 bored .030 over this summer and the crank polished. Then i bought a rebuild kit through them and had them assemble it into a short block because i didnt want to gap the rings and that was about 1250-1300 bucks with the rebuild kit, and Edelbrock cam. I still have to buy the intake, carb, and headers for it and thats probably another 1000 bucks
WHat are you looking for, torque for off roading and pulling, or high end horse power for racing???
the 410 is rated at 330HP @ 4600 and 444TQ @ 2800 at the flywheel, and thats just a stock motor... according to my book.
A set of CJ heads, cam, and exhaust will really up them numbers, and again when you go .030 over...
But if thoes numbers are just tooo pathetic to you, then why not just go 428??? or stroke out a 427.
Or you could go the cheep way and get a 460...
those numbers were on a chassis dyno, figure 25% loss thru the driveline and those are pretty fair numbers. and btw no need to be rude were all one Ford family here Dom
typically speaking, boring is done out of need, not desire. I personally do not think it is a good idea to open it up to the max because it virtually leaves your block unusebale should something happen in the future that requires another rebuild.
My thoughts exactly. Going from .030 to .060 is typically only like 4-6 cubes, thats nothing. I would bore the block as little as possible and get the most cubes you can out of the stroke.
I had my 460 bored .030 so it's now a 466. I could have went .060 over and been 472 cubes but I'm not worried about 6 cubes in trade of shortening the life/strength of my block.
I also just want to throw out that when I was 18 I took a stock 302 bottom end from an 89 GT, bolted on a set of $200 GT40 heads from a lightning, F303 cam and edelbrock intake. It made 288 rwhp on a chassis dyno. Jusy saying, take that info as you will but its fact.
WHat are you looking for, torque for off roading and pulling, or high end horse power for racing???
the 410 is rated at 330HP @ 4600 and 444TQ @ 2800 at the flywheel, and thats just a stock motor... according to my book.
A set of CJ heads, cam, and exhaust will really up them numbers, and again when you go .030 over...
But if thoes numbers are just tooo pathetic to you, then why not just go 428??? or stroke out a 427.
Or you could go the cheep way and get a 460...
To be honest i'm lookin for a racing motor with most of its power between 1000 and 3000rpm because it's still a truck. When I think of horsepower I think 300 at the wheels, and yeah I know thats alot but its goal. Besides, an rv cam only produces power at low rpm like 1000-3000.