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I have been trying to diagnose a head gasket issue for the past few weeks, today I was going to try and flush the cooling system thinking that I maybe had blockage. Well I was going to take the T-stat off, so as I started that process I removed the intake tube from the air filter to the throttle body and when I removed the intake tube the throttle body plate was covered in a caramel looking paste, I followed the tube that it was coming from and it took me to the driver side valve cover, when I removed the tube the tube was filled with the stuff as was the PVC looking piece that is on the valve cover (couldn't get this off). Would that indicate that the head gasket is definitely blown and I am leaking coolant into engine?? I have also noticed that the driver side head has a rusty color to it, near the fuel rail spark plugs etc. I am pretty sure that I now have a blown head gasket, but if I could get some other opinions I would appreciate it. I don't want to start throwing $$$ at this if it is not even worth fixing. Thanks everyone for your help and input.
It could be the intake gasket leaking or it could also be a cracked head. Like I've said before, you need to do a compression test. Until that is done you're just guessing.
If the compression test was done, wouldn't that just tell me if that cylinder was leaking, would it really tell me if the head was cracked? I don't mean to question your logic, I guess I don't understand how the compression test will tell me exactly what my issue is. Again I hope that I dont offend you but can you explain the compression test procedure to me and how that would diagnose the problem. Thanks Alloro
Just because there is some carmel colored deposit does not mean you have a headgasket issue. Is the oil on the dipstick carmel color? That would be a more definate indicator. It is not entirely uncommon for the carmel color deposit to exist on the back side of the oil fill cap, so it could be the same in this breather tube, and not uncommon at all in a healthy engine.
I am not sure what what you see on top of the engine, the heads are aluminum and the intake is either aluminum or plastic so there isn't anything to rust. Is the coolant rusty? What is leaking up there? It must be a hose or possibly the intake gasket.
When headgaskets leak on these it is more often and external oil leak on the pass side head visible through the wheel well. I think you are still jumping to conclusions.
If the compression test was done, wouldn't that just tell me if that cylinder was leaking,
YES...Isn't that exactly what you want to know????
would it really tell me if the head was cracked?
Who cares? Either way, the head comes off for the repair.
I don't mean to question your logic, I guess I don't understand how the compression test will tell me exactly what my issue is. Again I hope that I dont offend you but can you explain the compression test procedure to me and how that would diagnose the problem. Thanks Alloro
It probably will not tell you exactly the cause but again, does it really matter? With a cracked head, which is extremely rare, or a leaking headgasket, the procedure is the same. Pull the head. At that point the leaking gasket will either be obvious, or the crack in the head will have to be found, but again, it is usually obvious which cylinder is sucking coolant.
I know that I am beating a dead horse, I scheduled to have the head gaskets changed, (intake and exhaust also) for $320 parts and labor can't beat it. Like you said the head has to come off either way, if the head is cracked or if the gasket is toast. I'll post the cause of the problem and the out come after it is all said and done.
Like you said the head has to come off either way, if the head is cracked or if the gasket is toast.
He meant only if one or more of the cylinders had low compression during the test. If it turns out that your intake gasket is shot, then the heads do not have to come off and you'll save money and time.
Oh and on a second note. If, yes if, you do end up taking the heads off, I strongly recommend you get them over to a machine shop. Not only have the valves checked, but also to have all of the spark plug holes fixed so that you won't suffer any spark plug blowouts later on.
You said you didn't want to throw away money right? Why are you pulling the heads when the problem hasn't even been diagnosed yet? Heck, what if it turns out you had a leaking heater hose that was a $20 fix?
I would also be very skepitcal of gettting the heads pulled on a modular for $320. You are talking about a TON of labor time.
all the carmel colored stuff sounds like oil if any thing I would say you have a sludge problem, oil in the pcv system is normal, and I would be very afraid of someone doing the job for that cheap I did the head gasket on my expedition and it cost me that much in parts and I had alot of parts sitting around
You said you didn't want to throw away money right? Why are you pulling the heads when the problem hasn't even been diagnosed yet? Heck, what if it turns out you had a leaking heater hose that was a $20 fix?
I would also be very skepitcal of gettting the heads pulled on a modular for $320. You are talking about a TON of labor time.
Either the mechanic he's taking it to has no idea what he's in for or he's going to do a Barrs Leak repair.
The guy that is going to do the work is really good, he put a new engine in a friends expedition and he did a very good job. This guy knows what he is doing, he has done a lot of other work for people in my friends neighborhood and comes very well recommended, I know what he is in for and he knows what he is in for as well. I would never use a product like barrs leak stop or head gasket repair. That's almost insulting to insinuate that, but then again you probably are speaking from experience. Again I appreciate the input and feedback you all have given me, however knowing my expedition, I know that the sludge is not normal and has never been there before, and due to the fact that I have over 250k miles on it; it isn't a bad idea to go ahead and have the gaskets changed. Thanks again for the input and concerne.
If he's as good as all that I'd say you have an excellent mechanic and you ought to find a way to make him a part of the family. Experienced, good work and good pricing are very hard to find at any time. Good luck with the repairs and let us know how it comes out.
Last edited by Moto Mel; Jan 6, 2010 at 09:52 AM.
Reason: phat fingers
Ok, here goes. My guy came over yesterday at 8am, at about 4pm he got both heads off. Both of the head gaskets were leaking. The left side (passenger side) was leaking at #4 and the right side was leaking at #7. I am having him install a new timing kit (chain, guides, tensioner etc.) and the water pump (that had a small leak in it also). He said that the heads looked good (no cracks or warping) All gaskets are getting changed, intake, heads, exhaust, timing cover and valve covers. All for $200 labor. The gasket kit ran me $200, the timing kit $300, water pump $50, oil and coolant was $50. for less than a grand I am getting all of this done. He's going to finish putting everything back together today and I'll be back on the road. The valve covers were gunked over with antifreeze and oil (caramel mixture).
That is one seriously amazing mechanic. Does he have x-ray vision? That would be the only way for him to know the heads were not cracked. If you do not have the heads resurfaced, you WILL have leaks again. Just because he looked at the heads and said they were not warped, doesn't mean a thing. We are talking thousands of an inch. Must be that x-ray vision again.
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