Check Engine light is going to cause me to commit suicide
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Check Engine light is going to cause me to commit suicide
P0401 Trouble code for a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT. 2.3L engine, 4 cyl, 2wd. Autozone said it was "insufficient flow to the EGR".
Earlier I had gotten a couple EGR codes. I replaced the EGR valve, and the EGR pressure sensor (plastic one). The code went away, but an EVAP code of P1443 came on. I replaced the purge flow valve/sensor and it went away, but the EGR code came back on. What do I do for insufficent flow?
And...is there a better way of reseting the computer then unhooking the neg term on the battery for a few min? Because I end up going around 60 miles before the code turns back on, but the Comp is "not ready" for it to pass emissions. I'm driving on expired plates.... HELP!
Earlier I had gotten a couple EGR codes. I replaced the EGR valve, and the EGR pressure sensor (plastic one). The code went away, but an EVAP code of P1443 came on. I replaced the purge flow valve/sensor and it went away, but the EGR code came back on. What do I do for insufficent flow?
And...is there a better way of reseting the computer then unhooking the neg term on the battery for a few min? Because I end up going around 60 miles before the code turns back on, but the Comp is "not ready" for it to pass emissions. I'm driving on expired plates.... HELP!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
You might have to replace the EGR tube. I'm not familiar with that engine in particular, but I believe there's a restriction in the tube that causes a pressure differential when the EGR valve is open and exhaust gas is flowing through the tube - that 's how the "flow" is determined/measured. If the restriction has rusted away - no restriction = no pressure differential = no "flow". It will always seem like the valve is closed to the sensor.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,946
Likes: 62
From: in the woods of MA
Yes, I'd be pretty sure that's an OEM part. Not sure of the cost, if it's too much you might want to have a shop run through the test sequence, I saw it printed up somewhere. I think you put vacuum directly to the EGR valve and check for voltage change at the sensor. If that fails you pull one hose from the sensor and check again... ? I'm getting real foggy on that here, but the point is that it's possible to diagnose the problem without just swapping in parts... 
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