This isn't my typical photo heavy write-up, but regardless I thought others might find it helpful.
I recently installed a Ford AIC/APCM (auxilliary idle control/auxilliary powertrain control module) in my 99 F250 PSD. Information on what exactly the AIC/APCM does can be foundhere. The model I have does not have the PTO control option, but all the other functions are the same. I started another thread with somewhat detailed instructions for installation of the AIC, but here's the quick and dirty version:
Look here:

This photo shows the approximate location of the AIC/APCM plug. If your truck doesn't have a bunch of extras installed like mine, then you can easily see the plug with the fuse access panel removed. Because of my Isspro gauges, satellite radio wiring, and wiring for other switches installed in my truck it was impossible to see without sticking my head up under the dash.


This photo shows the location of the AIC plug on my early 99- it is a round plug with only 4 wires going to it. On some trucks I've heard that this plug may be clipped to some of the wiring for the steering column instead of to the dash structure as mine is. Either way, it's easy to identify because it's the only round 4 wire plug under there that is not connected to anything. Plug the harness from the AIC into this plug... you're done. Now you just need to mount the AIC unit itself. The unit I bought (used) came with an OBS bracket, but it still fit my SD just fine. I only had to reverse the bracket and bend in the metal tab in the center of the bracket. Here is what the unit looks like mounted up:




In order for the AIC to function and activate any of the functions programmed into the unit, there are certain criteria that need to be met:
Trans in park (auto) or Neutral (handshaker)
Foot must not be on brake, throttle, or clutch
E-brake must be set

The problem with requiring the e-brake to be set is that the e-brake switch is a cheesy little thing and prone to not work like it should (as was the case for me). Plus, since I have an auto I rarely, if ever, use my e-brake anyway, so I wanted to wire a toggle switch that would cause the PCM (and AIC) to believe the e-brake was set.
With some help from forum members (megawatt00 and JockD for the most part, many thanks for all the help gentlemen!) along with my own testing with a multimeter I figured out that the e-brake switch relies on a signal from a single wire- this wire carries +12v and, when grounded out, illuminates the "BRAKE" light in the dash and tells the PCM the brake is set. When working properly, the switch on the e-brake assembly does this. But again, the e-brake switch is flaky at best, and even a small amount of dust or corrosion on the pin in the switch can cause it to not work properly, thus not grounding the +12v from the wire attached to it.
Now that I'm done rambling here's how to wire a toggle switch so that you can make the PCM and AIC believe the e-brake is set when it's not, allowing you to use the functions programmed into the AIC. For my switch I used a simple lighted toggle I bought at Napa years ago that had 3 terminals- Power, Accessory, and ground. The tools and supplies you will need:
Wire strippers and crimpers
Male and female quick disconnect (blade) terminals
Wire (I used 18 gauge)
Switch

Assuming that if you are using a lighted switch like I did you will want the switch to illuminate, here's how to wire it... it's rediculously simple (which I like )
1. Find a switched +12v source- I installed a wire tap on the switched +12v wire on the truck side of the AIC plug (red wire with yellow trace). Figure out how much wire you need to go from the wire tap to your switch, put a male terminal on one end and a female terminal on the other end. The female end connects to the "Power" terminal on the toggle switch, the male end connects to the wire tap.
2. Find a ground- I installed a wire tap on the ground wire on the truck side of the AIC plug (black wire). Figure out how much wire you need to go from the wire tap to your switch, put a male terminal on one end and a female terminal on the other end. The female end connects to the "Power" terminal on the toggle switch, the male end connects to the wire tap.
3. Find the wire connected to the e-brake switch- it's a single wire with black wire loom over it and a 90 degree terminal in a black plastic housing on the end. Super easy to identify- just stick your head under the dash looking at the kick panel and it will be pretty obvious which wire you need. There are two options here- you can either install a wire tap in the wire, or simply unplug it. Since the e-brake switch was flaky anyways and only worked when I messed around with it, I just unplugged the wire. If you wish to have the "BRAKE" light still work when the e-brake is set, you'll need to clean the switch up good and use a wire tap instead. Figure out how much wire you need to go to your switch and install a male terminal on one end and a female terminal on the other end. The male end connects either to the wire tap, or into the terminal on the end of the stock e-brake wire (I re-routed the e-brake wire so that used less wire connecting to my toggle switch). The female end connects to the "Accessory" terminal (usually in the center from my experience) on the toggle switch.
4. Start the truck, flip the toggle switch. It should light up and the "BRAKE" light in the dash should illuminate (unless its burned out). Success! You can now use the functions of the AIC without having to have the e-brake set.

If you don't care about having the switch light up, follow step 2 above to hook up the ground to your toggle switch and connect the stock e-brake wire to the "Power" terminal on the toggle switch and it will work just the same, without illuminating the toggle switch.

That is the long-drawn out typed version of what only takes a few minutes to accomplish in the truck. I hope I didn't make it sound too complicated, it's a very simple install. I can take more pics if need be of my switch, the wires I tapped into, the stock e-brake wire and switch, etc.

 

Very good write up Chase!! I'm glad that it is working out for you.

 

Nice going, glad you got it figured out. Can't rep you but atta boys all around for ya!

 

Good write-up Chase

 

Excellent write-up Chase!! I love my AIC and use it quite often whether it be the high idle, charge protect, or to ramp up the engine speed to jump someone's batteries. But I don't like setting the e-brake much during the winter cause I'm afraid it'll stick and not release fully (past experience on other trucks). If I did a toggle switch setup like yours, then that would take care of those fears!!!

 

I'm glad I did it, it was worth the effort required even though I spent a rediculous amount of time making the hole for my switch the right size. My switch is mounted just to the right of the AIC module on that triangular part of the bracket, oriented sideways. The only bad part about having it there is there isn't much clearance in front of that plastic cover down there, but I'm going to go to Radio Shack tonight and pickup some of those 90 degree quick connect terminals to solve that problem

 

Great write up chase reps to you.

 

Could you have just connected the parking brake wire from the controller to ground and not had to fool with the switch? I don't know if that would work or not. I know that on my radio to "bypass" setting the parking brake to use the nav. while driving, I just had to ground the parking brake wire as part of the process. Not sure if this could use the same principal or not.

 

He could have but where the AIC controls the idle on the truck it is better to have it on a switch so that it won't come on when you don;t want it to.

 

Oh, good to know. That wouldn't be a good thing for it to come on by itself.

 

Great post Chase!

I have been using 3/4" round rocker switches mounted on the trim panel below the dash and above the fuse access panel. I copied that from a post I saw on FTE, but he has about 20 switches there! I use a tool called a "Rotobroach" to cut a clean hole right to size. It works just like those spot weld cutters with the pointed pilot pin, only my set has interchangable cutters from 1/4" up to 3/4". The rocker switch just pushes into the hole.

 

There is no parking brake wire on the AIC itself. There are only 4 wires... switched +12v, ground, and a twisted pair that the AIC uses to communicate with the PCM. By grounding the wire on the e-brake sensor (what I have done with the switch I installed) I would be driving around everywhere with the BRAKE light in the dash illuminated. Any ideas how your radio is setup to ground the e-brake signal w/o illuminating the dash light?

You are right. Now I am in control.... mwahahahaha

 

Oh well then that wouldn't work then. The wire that I grounded is just the e-brake signal that the headunit has to see to be able to use the nav, to set your destination and whatnot. All it has to see is a ground signal, so by grounding the parking brake wire it "thinks" the parking brake is always set. I thought this might have been the same kind of deal.

 

Ahhh okay, that makes sense.

 

OMG !! Why!!?? All I searched was, How to bypass the E-Brake with AIC ON a 2019 F250 6.7 Superduty. Why dose it always bring up “ not the right INFO!!”