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I havent gone to my records for the exact miles (my guess max 18K) on my new Cryo Rotors and the pads they suggested for my type use. Extremely light use pull my boat 6 times a year and motorcycle trailer 10 times or so. No camper. Just a shell.
Problem is this truck EATS Rotors! Pulsing at about 8 to 10 K now at 18K miles later I need to turn them or junk them? Paid more for these type rotors and they seemed to have lasted even less time? I have read that the early 99 SD set up is different from the later build in 99. Found that out when I had to change out the first set. So my question is? Is it me? Or is their a rotor that lasts? And yes I did the Pin thing to make sure they were nice and ready to slide when the caliper was movin well when I did the Cryo rotor install. Any input will be greatly appreciated! In advance THANKS!
i've got an early 99 and i just replaced all four of mine. i put "wagner" rotors on my front and back but they have less than 10k on them, so i can't give you an opinion on them yet. their from my local parts shop. nothin fancy. cost about $90 each. i don't do any heavy towing anymore so i'm hopin these last awhile, but only time will tell.
i know this doesnt really answer your question but you asked for "any input". good luck
I am the original owner. Ford replaced the rotors three times on their dime. I have done it 2 more times on my dime. How long have you had your truck? OR? Do you know how many sets have been on it?
Seems these early 99's from what I have read in the past Ford had to make change on the rotors as they seem to be a real issue. Hence the three free sets!
I am the original owner. Ford replaced the rotors three times on their dime. I have done it 2 more times on my dime. How long have you had your truck? OR? Do you know how many sets have been on it?
Seems these early 99's from what I have read in the past Ford had to make change on the rotors as they seem to be a real issue. Hence the three free sets!
bought it with 89,000-put rotors on at 100,000-presently have 110,000. don't know about the past though the rear rotors where really rusty and the fronts where really warped when i replaced them.
I've got just under 225K miles on my early '99, have owned it for 120K+ and I've never touched the rotors, can't say that the original owner did either. I was just looking at them the other day when getting new tires put on, there's still a lot of rotor there, but I was thinking they sure were rusty.
I do a bit of heavy towing with it also.
What pads are you using?? How often do you replace them? If you have pads that are harder than your rotors, something will have to wear out.
I'm curious as to the issue. That's something you can't eventually get around to fixing!
Did you break the new rotors in properly? This is big reason to why rotors fail early. I should know because I have failed to do it more than once.
The rotors on the e99 are smaller, have friends with later psd's and they seem to have less problems.
My 99 seems to eat rotors to, usually due to the cailpers locking up. I have had brand new calipers sieze, I got the calipers and rotors replaced for free that time.
I think the rotors on the early 99s are the same size, they are just closer to the hub, by about a 1/4 inch. I know one time I replaced ours, and they gave me the wrong ones. After I tightened down the wheel, and just before I let the jack down, I went to spin the wheel, out of habit, and it wouldnot spin. The rotor looked normal, when I put it in, but its hard to tell that 1/4 inch depth difference while your loosely setting the brakes in place. Luckily Im in the habit of trying spin the wheel before I let the jack down, no matter what I was doing to the truck.
I think the rotors on the early 99s are the same size, they are just closer to the hub, by about a 1/4 inch. I know one time I replaced ours, and they gave me the wrong ones. After I tightened down the wheel, and just before I let the jack down, I went to spin the wheel, out of habit, and it wouldnot spin. The rotor looked normal, when I put it in, but its hard to tell that 1/4 inch depth difference while your loosely setting the brakes in place. Luckily Im in the habit of trying spin the wheel before I let the jack down, no matter what I was doing to the truck.
Mike you are right, it is the different size hub that makes the rotors different. When I was looking at power stops they offered the different rotor for the earlier build year, but it wasn't clear what was different about them, they just had different sizes. Apparently it was the depth not the diameter.
I think theres a couple important questions. One would be did you attempt to follow break in procedure. two, what pads are you running, and three, did you replace the pads, when you replaced the rotors.
Now I hadnt followed the break in instructions, because my cryoed power slots didnt come with them, and I was at the garage, no internet. So I basically just tried to be light as I could , for the first couple miles. Stopping way, wayyyy, in advance. If your having trouble wearing out rotors, and fast, and it doesnt seem to matter brand, Id be awefully curious to see what pads your running. In most cases, people call Napas lifetime pads, the rotor destroyers. And if your getting those, you better be getting the lifetime rotors, otherwise youll be buying rotors soon. I try to avoid lifetime warrenty pads. If they are made to last the life of the vehicle, then in MY oppinion, they ARE much much too hard, and will infact destroy your rotors.
I followed the break in procedure supplied and I believe the name of the pads were Hawk? Dont have that info where I am at. For my light towing application the vendor suggested which pads for the Cryo rotors best fit my application. I checked and clean the pins. Is their a retro fit on the pins or do I need to update the calipers?
Well, alot people seem to like the Hawk pads, and combo them with the cryo rotors. I would maybe speak to your vendor, and see if they have any ability to warrenty the rotors, or atleast try to help you out? As far as the pins, if they are clean and you used a good synthetic grease, and NOT neversieze, I dont see an issue. Our early 99 has the origional hardware, and no trouble at 235k
I assume the Cryo rotors can be turned and cleaned up? Is there an issue with them that prevents this other than thickness of material thats needs to be left?
You may call powerslot and find out for sure, I cant answer that. But once thats done, they may need cryoed again. Least thats how it works in my head, but a phone call to them should clear that up.
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