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Is there a "proper way" to do this? I've seen some photos but can't really make them out. Do you just fill in the teeth except for a the couple that mesh? Is it easier with the chunk pulled out of the axle housing?
After seeing a set of welded gears in a mudtruck unweld themselves I would rather go through the trouble of finding a good locker or something. When them welds break it gets pretty ugly. You could always do like I did with my ranger. Run the axle without any oil for about an hour and hit a nice cold water puddle. This will weld them gears up nice and tight. Worked for me at least.
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
Couple of ways to do it. Either weld the spider gears directly together, or weld in the teeth so that the gears can no longer rotate but aren't actually attached. Sounds really simple, haven't actually done this myself yet. Going to try as soon as I find another set of spider gears for my 10.25 Ford as there is no mini-spool available. Want to throw in the Lincoln locker when I want to go play in the sand, and then swap in the open spider gears for street driving.
Keep in mind when welding hardened material like differential gears you must have adequate weld penetration to produce a strong joint. Differential gears are case hardened and just globing some weld on the surface with a MIG welder is not going to last long. If possible grind the surfaces were you want to weld about 1/8" deep to get below the case hardening and start to build up the weld from there. Remember when using a stick welder the slag must be chipped and brushed off in-between each weld. Stick welders will work well for this type of work but I prefer to use a TIG welder.
Can't say it's the best way but I've always used a 6011 rod, turned the heat up for penatration and welded the heck out of all the spider gears I could reach. Like I said it may not be the best way but I've never blown one out yet. Just be sure to clean the slag out of the housing before you button it up. I've done a few this way for myself and friends and love the heck out of it. When you go offroad just lock one hub in and if the going gets tough stop and lock the other hub...wouldn't advise driving it on the street this way, be a bear to handle. I'm not putting down a spool, just used to never have the money for things like that (well the wife...or ex-wife now, would gripe to much about the money) and after having run a Lincoln-Locker for years don't see the need in spending the money now. Whit
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Sep-01 AT 11:08 PM (EST)[/font][p]
Im lazy so i didnt read the last 3 posts...so if i repeat....forgivevaness prease! Anyway....here it is...get the best, most expensive gum you can buy. Insert all in mouth and chew till nice and kneeded. Then just jam it in the gears...but keep it away from the ring! dont want to make a mess.....haha...
Seriously....We did this to my friends TTB D44. He runs 32" TSL's. Here is my suggestions. Find a hot welder. You want to get a deep, penatrating(sp) weld. Thoes 110A fire starters aint going to cut it. I think this is one of the biggest reasons for failure. We took it to a local welder that had a 500A+ 3 phase MIG machine........WOW.......tensile strangth of over 100,000lbs and will weld 2 1" slabs of metal in a single pass! What he did is tack the gears to the case and then filled in the mesh area's. I have a feeling that the axles will brake before the weld does. JUST make sure that you get lots of brake cleaner to clean out all of the oil before you weld.....remember The Gulf War???? You guessed it! Anyway....i cant stress enough the gobbs of traction you get off a locked front! Just dont lock it on the pavment....or you will **** off the dude with the fresh tire tracks in his front yard......you think an 18 wheeler turns wide!!!! But off the pavement...feels heavy but very manageable(sp?). It can be done....just do it right......O yeah...as stated above.....Rockman say SLAG is no good! keep it neat!
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