Lockers and Limited Slip axles
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.
Like A Rock......In Water!
"like a rock" on the sides of roads everywhere.
72 F-100 4x4. fresh 390 4bbl, NP435 tranny, spooled rear, 2"skyjacker springs front, 2" custom shackle flip rear, "mild" fender trim, 35x15.50 TSL/SX tires.
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
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Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.
Like A Rock......In Water!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
That's what everyone keeps telling me!
Seriously though, their not nearly as bad as people make them out to be. Their not idiot proof by any means but if you use your head their very easy to live w/. Heck, my wife drives the truck around from time to time and I have no problem letting her have the keys. I might be a little leary in the winter as she's never had a RWD vehicle (poor neglicted soul) and a spool on ice is not for novices. I didn't have any problems last winter after I put it in but all I've ever owned is RWD. Their LOADS of fun in the parking lots! 
"like a rock" on the sides of roads everywhere.
72 F-100 4x4. fresh 390 4bbl, NP435 tranny, spooled rear, 2"skyjacker springs front, 2" custom shackle flip rear, "mild" fender trim, 35x15.50 TSL/SX tires.
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.
Like A Rock......In Water!
One other thing I was told is that you don't want a locker in both axles-hurts steering and traction or something like that. What about a L/S in front and locker in rear? What would be the best combo for all-around traction and performance in all situations?
88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.
Like A Rock......In Water!
If you pay attention and go easy on the turns when wet/icy a locker should be alright. The Detroit locker is bulletproof(next strongest compared to posi probably), they've been around forever and run approx. $400 depending on your differential, with most applications available. The Detroit replaces your entire carrier, and is harder to install. If you don't like the the noise n'stuff there are versions out there that are supposed to have less quirks.
There are kinds of lockers that just replace your spider gears, they are cheaper, easier to install, but weaker.
Lockers in the front can make steering more difficult(especially with large tires), and are a lot harder on your u-joints and axles. But this is more of a problem when doing more heavy duty offroading, i.e. rock crawling, but you say you're on road 99% of the time so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
There are two types of limited slip traction devices ones that use clutches, and ones that don't, simple. The kind that use cluthes wear out, but you can replace them. You usually have to add some sort of "friction modifier" to the diff. fluid too. There are types that use gears, so they don't wear out like clutches, and you don't have to use any additives.
Limited slip devices tend to be cheaper, and are much more forgiving in wet/icy conditions. They won't put as much power to the ground though, some have options for the torque bias ratios too. If you are in a situation where one wheel is in the air(no resistance at all) then the other wheel will provide no power. You can "fool" the diff. though by using light brake pressure to provide resitance to the wheel in the air so power is transfered to the grounded tire. I'd recommed the Detroit Truetrac if you're going limited slip, it's the gear type, and is supposed to be pretty bulletproof.
I belive you already said no posi/spool, so I won't go into it. I think you made the right choice though, excesive tire wear, and it'll kill you in the rain. Great at the strip though.
Last there are the type of diffs. that run open untill you manually engage it, and then it becomes a spool. There are three types:
The ARB air locker. Uses compressed air to engage the differential. This has been around the longest. It is expensive, approx $900. You have to buy an air compressor as well as the diff. carrier. If it is not installed exactly right, it won't work, or will stop working quickly. It's not so much mechanical problems, it's the sealing, if you don't have compressed air in the diff. then you're left with a regular open diff. If it is installed correctly it is supposed to be great, a number of off roaders use them. You also have to watch where you route your air line so it doesn't get caught or melted through.
The OX locker(I think that's what it's called) It is simpler, and cheaper than the ARB. It uses a cable(like a manual choke) to engage it. It is relatively new, and I havn't heard how durable it is, or if there are any problems. It was installed in an issue of Peterson's Four Wheel and Off Road fairly recently, might inquire on there website. The diff. cover is integral to the mechanism, it is very large and beefy, but I don't know if I like anything being integral with the cover, especially when it can be bashed on the trail. I assume because of the cover issue, it is not made for the Ford 9". Might only be available for the Dana 44 unless they've realesed a new version. I don't quite remember but I think it was mainly desighned for the front diff.
The Detroit Electrac. This one sounds like the best of them all, too bad it's not out yet(www.tractech.com for updates). It is basically the Detroit Truetrac clutchless limited slip diff. with some sort of electronically engaged mechanism that turns it into a spool. So you have a full time limited slip that switches to a spool, you never have to run open, yay! And no cluthes to wear out, no compressed air lines that leak, just a wire(or two, don't know, doesn't say). I'm all giddy like a school girl waiting for this one to debut. The website doesn't say when it's coming, or what it's first going to be available for, just gotta wait. And no clue as to pricing yet either. Like I said before, the Detroit Truetrack is supossed to be pretty strong, so this device looks like it has some real potential.
That's about all I know, sorry for the long post. I recommend a limited slip in front, and if you're willing to wait, go for the Electrack in the rear. If someone who can't handle a truck thats fishtailing is driving the car, don't get a locker, or don't let them drive when it's wet or icy. But lockers are great if you can deal with their quirks and stay on top of them. Have fun with it all, read, research, if you can find someone with a locker and drive their car that would be great. Talk to people who live in your conditions, and learn from their experiences. I'd assume you still have some time before it starts snowing(I live in Sac. CA)so take some time to research.
No matter what, do the installation correctly. If you're doing the kind that just replace the spider gears, it should be pretty easy because you don't change any...well anything really, pull spiders put in device, put back it truck. No need for dail indicators, or checking tooth patters, or setting backlash. Unless you want to to make sure everything is in spec. If you are doing the kind that replace your entire carrier, then you have to remove and press on the old/new bearings. Shim everthing, set backlash, check your tooth pattern. It can be quite involved. If you don't have the time/skill/tools /will/patience to completely tear down the diff. and put it back together, have a good shop do it. A place that does a lot of off road work probably does a lot of differential conversions.
Now is also a good time to do other stuff like replace bearings, or if you would like to change gear ratios. Leave room in the budget for stuff you might HAVE to replace, like if your gears are worn or your bearings are bad. Good Luck!
All that said, ever consider investing in a good winch?
They said that the OX was even more bomb proof than any they have seen. I would assume it would only work with the axles with covers due to the point you covered. BUT man...never hear of the other locker....going to keep my ears and eyes open on that one......i just didnt like the idea of an air line....one more thing to go wrong....anyway...great info.....
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.
Like A Rock......In Water!





