Removing the air pump
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Freshman User
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Removing the air pump
What exactly is involved in removing the air pump from an '89 302 (besides installing a shorter belt)? Mine is making some noise, and the jury is out on whether it is actually doing anything, anymore.
Any BTDT's?
Dan
Any BTDT's?
Dan
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Orangeville, Ontario
Well I've always been told that if I remove it to make sure I plug the thermactor ports on the back of the heads. Summit sells them. I don't know if I'll be completely removing mine anymore because emissions around here apparently checks for it. Oh and I snapped the bolt holding it to the bracket in half.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: KCMO
If you do disable the air pump, the heat from the thermactor will KILL the pump after several miles, making it usless. If you have NO emisions laws or think youcan get away with it - run the shorter belt and just rip ALL the smog equipement off. Leave the EGR and connections, and it won't throw a code.
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As I thought. I'll have a look in my "bucket of ****" tonite to see if I have a plug cap that will work.
I just want to remove it because it is making noise and for the added benefit of a couple of HP gain. Any idea what the belt length (w/AC) would be without the air pump?
Dan
I just want to remove it because it is making noise and for the added benefit of a couple of HP gain. Any idea what the belt length (w/AC) would be without the air pump?
Dan
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I asked a friend of mine who wrenches for a living (he has a '92 4.9l) about removing the air pump. He removed the pump and di nothing else. He said if the diverter valve is OK, removing the pump is all that is required. I'll do some more research.
Dan
Dan
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Posting Guru
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From: Florida
to plug the back of the heads without doing any cheesy crimping....you'll need 9/16 course thread bolts...the shortest ones you can get......they make dummy pulleys so if you pull the pump you just bolt that in it's place.......I have yet to put a shorter belton mine because it looks like it won't be possible......I pulled all my smog stuff and she runs just fine....PM me if you've got any questions....Luck
JR
JR
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From: Belle Mead NJ
I tried to get a shorter belt to work and it just doesnt. I was going in and out of my parts store for like an hr trying to find a belt that would work. When I finally got close it was just a little too short, or a little too long. When going around the air pump the tensioner doesnt work right for some reason. Your better off getting a dummy pully.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Raleigh, NC
it depends on where your tensioner is at. The setup with the tensioner on top between the alternator and A/C you can get away with a shorter belt.
If you have the tensioner between the alternator and where the smog pump used to be, you'll run into problems from what i've heard.
But on mine i just pulled off all the emissions crap and got a shorter belt. I read on here what size to get and it was totally wrong for some reason.
I ended up buying about five and returning the ones i did not need. I think I finally settled on a 915 or something... but it's been over a year since that fiasco, so my memory may be fuzzy.
If you have the tensioner between the alternator and where the smog pump used to be, you'll run into problems from what i've heard.
But on mine i just pulled off all the emissions crap and got a shorter belt. I read on here what size to get and it was totally wrong for some reason.
I ended up buying about five and returning the ones i did not need. I think I finally settled on a 915 or something... but it's been over a year since that fiasco, so my memory may be fuzzy.
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From: Southeast Idaho
For what it's worth and keep in mind I don't have a full grasp of the systems operation yet but I went through the same thing you are.....Noisy (rattling) pump. I removed the pump, disassembled it, removed all the guts, greased the bearings and reinstalled it. Proud of myself I took off down the road for a test drive and the truck ran like S**T. Not rough or missing but just gutless and no codes either. $60.00 later, I installed a reman. pump and she runs good again. If anyone is willing to explain why I would be willing to listen.
My truck is a 1990 F-250 351/E40D.
Just my .02
My truck is a 1990 F-250 351/E40D.
Just my .02
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Sorry, I cannot answer your question. Don't know why your truck would have acted like that.
I removed mine today.....1 bolt and cut the rubber hoses off. The thermacter valve is sound, therefore I never noticed any difference in performance/sound. I replaced the belt with a 95 1/8. Fit like a glove. The tensioner is about at mid travel on the 'gauge'.
I will remove the cannister and see about plugging the heads later. The howling and growling is gone now....I can finally listen to the engine!
Many thanks for the replies.
Dan
I removed mine today.....1 bolt and cut the rubber hoses off. The thermacter valve is sound, therefore I never noticed any difference in performance/sound. I replaced the belt with a 95 1/8. Fit like a glove. The tensioner is about at mid travel on the 'gauge'.
I will remove the cannister and see about plugging the heads later. The howling and growling is gone now....I can finally listen to the engine!
Many thanks for the replies.
Dan
Tuned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 436
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From: MI
BTW, if you feel like cleaning up your engine bay and removing the entire thermactor system, you can remove everything and not throw a code. So, you remove the pump, remove the lines on the back of the head, and then what? The vacuum lines are all there, different colors, and look ugly. If you sort through them and take them out, then your left with those 3 vacuum relays there(1 is for EGR system). You can get rid of them and just splice in approximately a 10,000 ohm resistor on each plug lead. That gives the computer the closed code and it doesn't mess anything up.
And, if you want to go a step further, you can remove your EGR entirely. The EVP sensor needs either one of those EGR eliminators installed or a funky set-up of resistors(which I did) so that the computer thinks its still closed and doesn't think its faulty and adjust for it.
And, if you want to go a step further, you can remove your EGR entirely. The EVP sensor needs either one of those EGR eliminators installed or a funky set-up of resistors(which I did) so that the computer thinks its still closed and doesn't think its faulty and adjust for it.