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About a month ago, the ABS light just came on. No damage is visible and I didn't hit anything. I've had it at two shops and they can't get a clear reading from the system. I've checked all of the fuses = good. Is there a way to check the sensors with a voltmeter? What else should I check? I plan on selling it soon and would like to have this fixed...
TIA
'96 Ford Ranger Splash, Extended cab, 4.0 ltr, Auto, 2wd
Last edited by nhlgopens; May 29, 2007 at 07:07 AM.
You need to find somewhere that is capable of pulling ABS codes.. usually autozone's scanners won't do the trick. I worked on a '96 explorer sport 2WD (same front brakes as your ranger) and it ended up being a tone-ring pressed too far on the left front rotor, but this was a manufacturing defect as the rotors were new.
A common failure item on these is the rear differential speed sensor.. a $20 part and very easy to replace so it may be something you want to try.
The two shops I had try to read codes... one was a brake and muffler specialty and the other was a general mechanics shop that pretty much did everything. I don't waste my time with Auto Zone. I thought about replacing the rear sensor - but wouldn't that throw off the speedo if it was not working correctly? Speedo's fine - as far as I can tell. It doesn't waiver or drop. I may just end up replacing all of the sensors just to be done with it.
Is the light on all the time or just when you hit the brakes? Have you checked the float in your master cylinder to see if it is sticking or if there is enough brake fluid in there? Sorry to ask such an obvious question, but i'd hate to see you replace all of your parts without checking the simple stuff first. Is it just the amber ABS light or is it both the amber ABS light and also the red BRAKE light?
No.. there's another speed sensor at the back of the transmission for the speedo. I think 2000+ uses the rear diff sensor for the speedo.
Thanks - I'll just replace that one first and see what it does. I didn't get the chance to crawl under it this weekend... graduation season in the air.
Is the light on all the time or just when you hit the brakes? Have you checked the float in your master cylinder to see if it is sticking or if there is enough brake fluid in there? Sorry to ask such an obvious question, but i'd hate to see you replace all of your parts without checking the simple stuff first. Is it just the amber ABS light or is it both the amber ABS light and also the red BRAKE light?
It's just the amber ABS light and it's on all the time. Brake fluid level was the first thing I checked. I try to hit the obvious things first - Dad always taught me to work smart = not hard.
1. Is ABS light on run only ore when truck does not move.
If U see ABS light on run, U have probably rignggear wobble, may be sensor is too far from ringgear.
The most probable ABS problems are wheel speed sensors damadge ore wire damadge. Look carefully at wires and connectors. Separate connectors and be sure they are cleane. Check WSS resistance with DVOM. I belive U will find problem during 1 weekend. Internal Modulator damadge ore ECU damadge are rare. And usually ECU and modulator are in one unit. WHat brand is your ABS? Bocsh? If yes, to chek it you need a program and k-line adaptor. I used to check ABS on some cars with VW program VAG-COM connecting directly to K-wire of ABS unit, not throught the OBD-II connectos. Nearly all the ABS systems may easily be scanned with VAG-COM and K-line adapter.
1. Is ABS light on run only ore when truck does not move.
If U see ABS light on run, U have probably rignggear wobble, may be sensor is too far from ringgear.
The most probable ABS problems are wheel speed sensors damadge ore wire damadge. Look carefully at wires and connectors. Separate connectors and be sure they are cleane. Check WSS resistance with DVOM. I belive U will find problem during 1 weekend. Internal Modulator damadge ore ECU damadge are rare. And usually ECU and modulator are in one unit. WHat brand is your ABS? Bocsh? If yes, to chek it you need a program and k-line adaptor. I used to check ABS on some cars with VW program VAG-COM connecting directly to K-wire of ABS unit, not throught the OBD-II connectos. Nearly all the ABS systems may easily be scanned with VAG-COM and K-line adapter.
The light comes on when you turn the key and stays on... whether it's started / running or not. I'm making an assumption... but with your line of thought, it would go out at start up and would intermittently go on and off while driving. Mine doesn't do that. Hopefully I'll get the chance to crawl under it this week / weekend. I'll definitely check all wiring and connections before purchasing anything.
The light comes on when you turn the key and stays on... whether it's started / running or not. I'm making an assumption... but with your line of thought, it would go out at start up and would intermittently go on and off while driving. Mine doesn't do that. Hopefully I'll get the chance to crawl under it this week / weekend. I'll definitely check all wiring and connections before purchasing anything.
nhlgopens, I know you said the fuses were ok, but consider this. My old GMC developed the low speed activation problem that was part of their recall, but my year truck fell short of qualifying. I just pulled the ABS fuse and reverted back to standard brakes (I drove non ABS vehicles for the first 13 yrs of driving). Point is, the ABS light stayed on solid all the time. I'm wondering if you have an electrical connection issue at the ABS module. Try disconnecting, cleaning and re-install to see if that works and/or check the pins for power.
I apologize.. for some reason I was thinking you have four wheel ABS, when in truth you have only rear wheel ABS.
With Rear ABS you cannot interface with any scanner. You have to jumper a wire near the back of the parking brake assembly then turn the key on and the ABS light should flash a number of times... count the number of flashes and there is your fault code.
Refer to that link to find out exactly how to do it.. it's not hard at all.
I have a 96 Ranger and my ABS light came on and when i checked everything that i thought might have triggered it was good. Come to find out it was one of my brake lights had blown do to a crack in the lens. I changed bulbs and was good to go.
Is the light on all the time or just when you hit the brakes? Have you checked the float in your master cylinder to see if it is sticking or if there is enough brake fluid in there? Sorry to ask such an obvious question, but i'd hate to see you replace all of your parts without checking the simple stuff first. Is it just the amber ABS light or is it both the amber ABS light and also the red BRAKE light?
i was driving up this morning and when I hit the brakes, mi abs and brake light came on. Stay on till I parked the car. Idk if it has anything to do with weather bc the temperature drop from 80 to 60. Is a 1996 ford ranger xlt 2.3 2rwd. Brake do feel a little spongy.
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