still not bleeding right or another problem?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
still not bleeding right or another problem?
I have a 96 3.0 with m5od. Problem is before i bought the truck previous owner put new slave cylinder in it and I thought they may have gotten air in system and not bleed it. It grinds when you start it up and mostly when trying to shift into 1rst 2nd or reverse. I noticed if I put it in to 4th at a stop it seems to work correctly when putting it into 1rst or rev. I have looked at the posts on how to bleed the system correctly but I have not had any luck or improvements. Am I not doing someting correctly or does any one have any thoughts. Grinding with clutch dissengaged
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.
Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.
Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.
Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.
The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.
Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.
Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.
Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.
Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.
Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.
Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.
The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.
Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.
Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.
Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.
The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.
Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.
Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.
Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.
Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.
Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.
Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.
Last edited by cj091184; Jun 11, 2006 at 12:38 PM.
