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I have been having an ongoing battle between me and my 71 F100's 302. I have tuned it up (plugs, cap, rotor, points, resistance checks on the wires) and it still has a miss when the throttle is held steady at 2,000 - 4,000 rpm. It accelerates fine. The miss disappears when I disconnect one of the 2 vacuum hoses. The one I disconnect is the one that runs into the cab and goes to a valve inside the cab. However it accelerates poorly when I drive it with it disconnected, so I hooked it back up. I am ready to put a distributor in this rascal to alleviate this problem as well as the fact I wont have to mess with points anymore. What are the companies out there that sell and electronic ignition system for the 71 302?
you could get the ing. system from a 77,78,79
there is some one on here that can tell you how to do it better than me but that is what i did rather easy good luck
the easiest ignition by far is the D.U.I. this is the HEI converted for ford. one 12v wire and that's it. when you by it , tell them your specs and they'll dial the distributor for you!! the draw back is that it is a LARGE cap.
i run this on my 67 stang for 6 years without a problem!! not one!! my stang is 302 w/ aluminum heads.......
just purcheased one for my 67 F250 390FE, and it fired right up after dropping it in. was running a duraspark for three years and switched over to D.U.I. went with a 13" air cleaner.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Oct-02 AT 01:21 AM (EST)]was getting no spark from coil.after a three month trip, came back to no start. tried for a couple of days to find the problem. didn't want to purchase more parts. especially after six years with no problems of D.U.I. went ahead and changed.
find at "performance distributors" put the usual .com
Stock .352, 2bbl... trying to be more fuel efficient, and get better performance. Just picked up the Pertronix Ignitor with high voltage coil, have the 7mm wires on order and installing Splitfire plugs... what is the best recommendation for a cap and rotor to hold up to the increased spark, or is stock ok?
Open to suggestions, thanks!
GolferSA
67 Ford F100 Custom Cab
352V8 C6 Auto Factory Air
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=5688&.jpg
golfersa@netscape.net
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GolferSA
67 Ford F100 Custom Cab
352V8 C6 Auto Factory Air
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=5688&.jpg
golfersa@netscape.net
Check out my gallery!
Well wait a minute! Even points will not have a steady miss at 2000 to 4000 rpm. Throwing gobs of new stuff at it may not solve the problem. The advice for improved ignitions and the pictures are excellent, but I think you should solve the problem first then improve the ignition. When you disconnect the vacuum hose to the cab did you plug off the opening at the carburetor? The hose is for vacuum actuated switches that control AC and heat. Vacuum plugged off at the carburetor should not affect anything engine related. I suspect, coil, cross fire in the cap, or incorrectly gapped points. Spray the cap and top of the coil and the coil wire with WD-40, wipe off excess and try again. Then replace and re-gap the points. Then replace the coil and coil wire. If drying the moisture and replacing some inexpensive parts doesn’t help use a propane torch (unlit) and look for a vacuum leak. With the engine running at idle, warm, spray the propane around any area that may have a vacuum leak and listen for engine rpm changes. Post back!
William in Atlanta
if your keeping the truck for any period of time, i'd go ahead and get the pertronix for it anyway, youll benefit from it and you'll have elimated points from the equasion.
i also would opt for thelarger dura spark/ cap adapt cap and rotor, but for now, until you solve your problem go with the pertronix and go from there.
also, a severly worn timing chain can cause spark scatter and missing, and i think you can kinda check this by removing the fuel pump and sticking your finger in to the block to feel if the chain is tight or loose.
beyond that, it could be carburator fuel related or also something wrong with the mechanical or vacuum advance on the distributor..........after the pertronix and coil, those are the only other things i'd think it could be.........all vacuum lines and fittings included..............remeber, just because the hose is on a fitting doesnt mean it isnt cracked and leaking.........
I suspect that the dizzy had a warn shaft and/or bushings in it.
Put a dwell meter on it to see if the dwell is jumping around in
the "bad" RPM range...
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