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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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96 351 Mods

I'm going to be picking up a 96 F150 with the 351 here soon. Seeing as I can't leave well enough alone, I want to go kinda nuts with the motor. This truck is going to be my good weather driver and atv hauler. I've been looking around on summitracing.com and have found some nice mods for it. I'm for sure going to put in a cam, and some headers and dual exhaust. The cam is designed for lowend torque, and I'd like to build the motor around that. Brute lowend of a big block, without the cost of a bigblock. There are several intake options, and lots of options as far as programming. If any of you have done this type of stuff, let me know what you used and why. I've got a nice list made up, but I'm not the stuff will work well together. The motor has 76k miles on it, so I'm not going to be rebuilding it yet. Also, no forced induction of any type. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:50 PM
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Is this a roler bock?

A roller cam is important to get torque out of a smaller motor. I woule run a hydraulic roller cam with a fast ramp rate, 220/230 duturation, 108-110 lobe sepereation angle, .500-.540"lift. I would get some heads with 165cc intake ports,9:1 compression, I would run 650cfm of intake. I would definatly reccomend headers, I prefer large step headers. I would get a better intake manafold and open element air filter. If you run fuel injection I would run aluminum between the air filter adn the throtel bodie.

Now if you go with aluminum heads you can run higher compression, I am not sure how much more but I hear it is worth it.

I would not rev past 5500 rpm too much with out stronger rods but that is up to you.

Make sure you have good ignition if you do not get one.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntersbo
Is this a roler bock?

A roller cam is important to get torque out of a smaller motor. I woule run a hydraulic roller cam with a fast ramp rate, 220/230 duturation, 108-110 lobe sepereation angle, .500-.540"lift. I would get some heads with 165cc intake ports,9:1 compression, I would run 650cfm of intake. I would definatly reccomend headers, I prefer large step headers. I would get a better intake manafold and open element air filter. If you run fuel injection I would run aluminum between the air filter adn the throtel bodie.

Now if you go with aluminum heads you can run higher compression, I am not sure how much more but I hear it is worth it.

I would not rev past 5500 rpm too much with out stronger rods but that is up to you.

Make sure you have good ignition if you do not get one.
I am going to be running the stock motor, stock EFI, with some programming to compesate for the mods. I am going to use shorty style headers for ease of install. I do not want to pull the heads as of yet, but I will switch out the intake for a Trick Flow one. The cam I chose is a .530/.530 lift roller. Thanks for the info. Also, I should note that I need to help out the E4OD to cope with the power. I am hoping on a minimum of 275 rwhp with everything I want to put on it.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 10:54 AM
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i would not run the trickflow intake for this application its a bit overkill. the edelbrock truck efi intake would be the ticket and builds power from idle-5500rpms. as far as cams go Call CompCams , tell them your plans and what your adding to the motor. dont just go into summit an pick any cam that would be a big mistake. headers i would look into jba,gibson,edelbrock,bbk and Bassini being the best available. duals may sacrifice some low end so no that now. the bassini Y pipe running 3" pipe thru your choice of muffler out the stock location will produce better torque then the duals will hands down. look into a bbk 56mm throttle body as well and when you talk to compcams ask if running 1.7 rockers would be benificial.
if this truck will be used to haul , torque is your goal and you want it down low in the rpm range. upgrading the coil would along with an ignition box would also be a nice upgrade.

have fun
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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The Trick Flow intake I found is one that builds power from 1500-5500rpm. The cam I chose is a Comp, with is designed for use in the EFI motor, and compatible with the computer. As far as exhaust goes, it will be headers, performance y-pipe, single 3 inch with high flow cat and Flowmaster 3" in, dual 2.25" out. I know I will sacrifice a little power/torque to a single exhaust, but with the other mods, I don't think it will be all that noticeable.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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What version of the intake did you find? Point it out to us. The trick flow intakes I've seen - run 1500-6500 and 2000-7000 rpm. These TFS intakes run about 300 CFM per runner and just the 1500-6500 version is easily able to handle 500hp. It is not the intake to run for a truck motor such as the one you're trying to build. These particular intakes are made for either big cubes (393-427) running high flow 185-225cc type heads or a bad 351.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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My bad, it is the 1500-6500 version.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...500004&FROM=MG

I guess I'll look into another type of manifold.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 06:38 PM
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I know I will sacrifice a little power/torque to a single exhaust
I don't think so. A good free flowing 3" single exhaust will give you more torque at a lower RPM then the alternatives. This is perfect for a truck.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:53 PM
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My guess is that you have a roller block being that it is a 96, and it may already have a roller cam in it. You can check the casting numnber, just above the starter, and if it starts with an F4TE then it is a roller block. You'll need to check and see what type of cam you have (roller of flat tappet)...this will be very important when selecting your new cam. Ive read where several have installed a roller cam from a 5.0 HO Mustang, advanced 2 degrees, and it has worked well on their rigs, and it will work with speed density. A used HO cam is cheap, and if you should need the lifters, dogbones and spider, then those are easy to come by and very inexpensive as well. I agree with kemical...don't go and pick out any off-the-shelf cam without doing a little resarch.

As far as the inlet side goes, you can keep your stock rubber hose and attach a cone filter on the end of it. Rubber is a good heat insulator, and aluminum will tend to soak up the heat from the engine compartment.
 
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