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I have a '79 F-150. 302 V-8. I just bought a new carb....runs great. It has an electric choke. When the engine is warm, the choke doesn't fully open. It closes fine when cold, but it only opens half way when it's fully warmed up. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this problem?
Is the new carb. an original equipment replacement or an aftermarket? What I'm trying to get at is what kind of electric choke do you have? Factory types are electric assist and hook up to the alternator, aftermarkets are full electric and hook up to +12V. There is usually a notch on the choke housing, where is it pointing in relation to the carb?
It's a remanufactured carb from autozone. Looks exactly like the old one. Also, the engine preheater tube does not exist on the engine. Would that make a difference as for warm air entering into the air cleaner.
Wrench head, the choke linkage must be out of adjustment. The electric hookup only determines the amount of time the choke stays closed. It should open fully, even with no electric current applied, on a warm engine. Make sure the notch lines up with the marks on the choke housing, and that the bi-metal spring mechanism is in place inside the housing.
Thanks thelonerangerxlt. I was just making sure he wasn't running a full electric choke (only) hooked to the alternator stator, 7 volts won't pull these wide open.
WrenchHead84, the preheated air to the air cleaner won't make a difference in the choke action. Electric assist only speeds up the pull-off rate (an emissions thing). The choke still works the old-fashioned way with preheated air from the exhaust manifold. Are the choke stove tubes hooked up the same as before? If it is the tube going to the choke housing should be hot. Start with the notch in the center of the markings and move it from there as needed.
BBB, the choke stove tubes don't exist on this truck. I bought this truck about 6-8 months ago, and they were never there. What marks, or notches are you talking about on the choke adjustment? Are you talking about the plastic housing where the electrical wiring hooks up to the choke. There are marks/notches on the top of that housing.
There's the problem. You need the choke stove tubes hooked up for the choke to work properly. An alternative is to replace the electric assist choke with an aftermarket full electric choke that runs off +12 volts, not the wire coming off the alternator.
The cap should have an index mark and the housing that it bolts onto should have a bunch of marks with a "flag" in the middle. This is all at the top of the choke housing. Align the index mark on the cap with the flag on the housing. Sometimes it's hard to see the mark on the cap.
Barry, Would buying a remanufactured carb from autozone be a full electric 12V choke? The previous carb that was on there, was also remanufactured but was about 10 years old, and was worn out. That choke also had a problem of fully opening, it would only open half way. There still weren't choke stove tubes on that either, but it might of been a 12V choke too. There new carb doesn't look like it opens even half way. It stays nearly closed. Do you think the new carb I am dealing with a 12V choke?
Thanks,
Jon (WrenchHead84)
Jon, a remanufactured carb. from Autozone or anyone for that matter will have an origonal equipment type choke on it. Yours was electric assist so the last carb. you had was assist too. That's why it never opened up all the way, you need the choke stove heat tubes hooked up for the choke to work properly. Full electric only chokes usually say +12V right on the cap where the wire hooks up.
Your options are to either get the choke stove hooked up again or buy a conversion kit for electric only.
Franklin2, you are right, there is a vacuum leak there since nothing is hooked up.
Barry, where can I get choke stove tubes for a good price? If you know of anyplace good, let me know. thanks.
Jon
Advance Auto has two kinds of kits to replace the choke heat tube. One installs it in the original hole in the manifold (but it may require that you drill out the old hole) and the other is a clamp-on affair that is meant for use on headers and requires that you set the choke a little leaner. I think both are made by Mr. Gasket or "Help".
Jon, I have been lucky and never had to replace the tubes. They are always busted in the junkyards. Try Mark’s suggestion, have seen the kits in the auto stores but never used one.
On the vacuum leak, it is a calibrated leak that is designed in the carb, just like the PCV.
See my gallery for a picture of the kit installed on a set of headers. The manifold kit has the tube and a couple of fittings to install in the old hole in the manifold.
Guys!!!
I tested out the choke stove tube using just a clear plastic tube to carry warm air. It worked, the choke fully opened. Thanks for your help. Now I'm just looking for a way to installed everything to look like it came from the factory. In other words, something to carry the heat other than plastic tubing.
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