Would it make any sense to change the oil filter between oil changes? When I changed mine @ 5,000 it had a lot of crud on it. I would like to go to synthetic & up my change interval.

 

If you want to extend your change intervals, then an oil analysis is surely needed. It's not so much the "crud", but the break down of the lubricating properties of the oil that's being used. Dino oils do break down faster than synthetics. But to be positive, of what's in your oil, or the lubricating properties, viscosity and oil shear, you need an analysis run by someone like "Blackstone". Search for them on the net.

Extending oil change intervals is also dependant upon the type of driving or environments your engine is being operated in. Hot dusty climates. Lots of stop and go city driving. Towing heavy loads. Straight out freeway driving form coast to coast..

I drive a mix of rural and freeway. Delo400 with isosyn. I change oil every 5,000 miles. No "crud" in my filters.

-Steve

 

Jack, as you probably already know, you are changing your oil TOO early. Even the Ford manual says you can go longer than you are changing it using dino oil. But then again...better safe than sorry or to each his own. My truck goes in Monday for it's first oil change since new. (4000 miles) Dealer is doing first one at no charge. I'm sure they'll use dino oil. After that, I'll be changing my own and will use some brand of Synthetic, Delo, Rotella or maybe even Amsoil, whatever. And I will probably look into the Blackstone analysis program. Cheap insurance. I used to run Mobil 1 in my old '92 7.3 and never had a problem with it....140,000 on it when I sold it, but won't put that in my 6.0 PSD. Amsoil has a notice out about extended drain intervals using it's oil and filters, but I believe that's for gas engines. I wouldn't recommend it for diesels. Using their 2000 series oil, replace filter after 6 months, add whenever the filter holds to top off and do a complete change after a year. Not commenting further as I don't want to get the flames going here...again I don't recommend this for diesels.

After watching the 6.0 diesel forums for a number of months, there are as many suggestions on oil and filters etc as there are people using the site!! My suggestion is to use whatever oil you want and change it regularly. The dino oil should prob. be changed more often than the synthetic. Whatever one does using this guideline will probably be as good as anyone could suggest. 'nuff said...

 

I thought of using synthetics in mine, & I can't justify the cost, unless the change interval steps out to about 20 - 30k miles (and even at that it would take about 4yrs for the ROI). The ONLY way I would consider going that long is with bypass filtration & OA. The OA I would take every 5k, change the bypass @ 5 k & primary @ 10k & add a bit to make up for any loss (an OA sample is about 1/2 pint).

A good bypass filter will run you about $250. Another thing to consider with synthetic is towing & climate. Ford recommends a 15w40 for higher temp, higher loads. If it gets colder & no towing, they recommend a 10w30 (which is what the factory fill is). So, if your going to run say 30k (which would be a year & 1/2 for me) what weight do you put in? Another thing to consider is the 6.0 has a tendancy to shear most 40 weight to 30 weight within 2k miles. About the only oils I know of that don't are Royal Purple, and Schaeffer's.

I've been running Delo 400 15w40 CI-4+ since new, and changing at every 7.5k like the manual says. I live in a "moderate" climate (it doesn't get below 30 very often), and I tow 7k#s about 6 times a yr, say 1200 - 1500 miles out of 20k/yr. I have run a Blackstone OA every change ($20), because I have the C-94 injectors, and I want to head off any problems before they git big, and I want to bea able to show a prospective buyer they will have a good truck. If I buy my oil at Costco, and order my filters from fleetfilter.com, an oil change w/OA costs me $58.

My O/A's have all come back good, and the oil does shear to 30 weight, but I don't have a problem with that, and blackstone thinks the oil could go beyond 7.5k. Fuel dilution has been very good, with nothing higher than 1.5%.

If you're gong to do long hauls, putting 30 - 40 k/yr on your truck, you might do syn/bypass/extended change. Or if money is no object, then it would be good. If money is tight (like me), then good CI-4+ dino at 7.5k is very cost effective & will protect your engine very well.

 

At the risk of being flamed (lets keep it civil) I'll comment- One of the issues with synthetics that is often overlooked are the operational benefits (as opposed to longer OCI) such as easier starts, better mpg etc. Certianly there are many engines/vehicles that it doesn't make financial $ense to use synthetics as the opertional benefits do not justfy the additional costs- However, with the 6.0 there are quite a few FTE members that have reported fairly significant mpg increases with synthetics (myself included) which make-up for the additional cost without going to extended OCI.

The two most prevalent theories/opinions seem to be:
1) The wider viscosity range (5w40) allows easier cold starts in addition to higher temp protection. It takes up to 30 minutes of driving to bring oil up to operating temp yet many driving trips are not this long. Thus, an engine works harder when cold (not at operating temp) if the oil is heavier 15w40 dino vs 5w40 synthetic and consumes more fuel in the process. This particular point is referenced in the Cummins synthetic vs dino oil test.

2) The harder an engine is worked (tow or haul) the more benefits of synthetics are realized. Very subjective point- Although increased mpg while towing is a common report from 6.0 owners using synthetic.
Side note: Increased mpg after long pulls has been reported from many 6.0 owners (including dino users) which may indicate the 6.0 likes to be worked- Anything is possible

"They" say people are more loyal to their brand of oil than their brand of beer and I made no reference to any brand of oil or beer

 

Both good and valid ideas. A change to synthetic 5w40 would be my first inclanation, if I had those problems, or lived in a severe cliamate. Where/how I drive, I just can't justify the cost of synthetics, since an "inexpensive" (read cheap) dino seems to be working well for me.

One area where I do splurge is Bio-diesel. I've run B15 at least every other tank & recently gone to B-50 every other tank. The truck runs smoother & quieter with the bio. I get a good quality commercial fuel that is clean & the local station turns it over pretty quick. The sell B-99 (so they can get te tax break for a blend), and I cut that with #2, usually from Safeway.

 

who is blackstone ?
cant seem to find them..can anyone tell me were to send my oil to get tested
thanks
chad

 

From 2+ years on this forum and what I have learned and do personally here is my advice...

1) Owners manual says change every 7,500 for normal driving and 5,000 for severe.

2) Blackstone oil analysis (mine included) says that all oils shear down from a 40 weight to a 30 weight in the 6.0L motor (dino & synthetic).

3) Our motors need clean oil and fresh oil for proper injector operation.

4) Most have found that changing at 5,000 miles is easier to keep track of and keeps the oil (dino or synthetic) clean and fresh (oil & filter).

5) Most have found that using synthetics for easier cold starts and better hot protection is key and no one recommends extended oil useage as this would violate Ford reccomendations. Yes, oils will last longer, but with a motor shearing it down and an EGR inducing dirty soot back into the intake, clean & freash oil is so key!!!

6) Dealers charge $70 - $80 for a dino oil & filter change, but one can use synthetic oil (do it yourself) for the same or less.

7) The use of CI4+ rated oil is the newest and best rating and should be used for its improved shear control and soot control. Does not matter if dino or synthetic, just use CI4+ as it is better than CH and CI and CI4 (look for the plus).
-------------------------

Personally, I changed (oil and filter) at 3,000, 6,000 and every 5,000 there after. I switched to Rotella Synthetic (5W-40) at 50,000 miles and wish I had done so sooner. I had used Motorcraft 15W-40 up until then with no problems. I went with Rotella Syn. for cold weather operational benefits and will now use year-round. Easier starts and I picked up 1 - 2 miles/gallon.

I use Powerservice at double the rate (32oz per 44 gallon tank). I use grey bottle from Spring to Fall and white bottle (anti-gel) in winter. I use in every tank at double strength. I also change fuel filters every 15,000 miles as recommended.

I have a March 1, 2003 built motor and have had zero problems except for re-flashing and now have 61,000 miles on my Excursion!!! I also have the original C94 injectors (all 8 from the factory) and all is well. Blackstone reports have been at .5% or less consistently for oil dilution (good rate).

Personlly, the topic of this thread is "extended oil changes" and I for one, do not recommend or endorse this practice as this motor thrives on clean fresh oil due to being an EGR equiped motor and uses oil to fire the injectors (reason for shearing... using like a hydrolic oil, not motor oil).

Good luck on what you decide for you and your truck.

Jeff

 

also using amsoil like mentioned is a nice way to void your engine warranty.

 

I have a 04 King Ranch 6.0 with 51,000 miles. I have my oil analyzed at Blackstone Labs ($20.00 per test) every 15000 miles and they tell me I could go to 10000 miles between oil changes. I was told by the diesel mechanic at Ford, if you go over 7500 miles on your oil change you could void your warranty. Reminder, clean oil keeps your injectors firing better.

 

Are you saying you change oil every 15,000 miles, or you change sooner and only test evey 15,000 miles?

Blackstone tells me that my oil (Motorcraft 15W-40) shears down to that of a 30 weight. Have changed to Rotella Synth. (5W-40) now, but have not yet had it tested.

Please clarify your post above please.

Jeff

 

Uh-oh... you know talk like that will stir up the rabid Amsoil fanboys.

 

Her is the website

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/peopl...lackstone.html

 

Sorry for not responding, I was out of town. I should have cleared that up on the oil change. I change the oil every 7500 miles and I only send it in every other time to Blackstone. It is a way for me to check the engine to see if any parts are going bad. I also sent my transmission fluid sample in to Blackstone after the Ford recall for the back-up gear in the transmission. The sample showned me I had the gear starting to go bad, yet Ford saw no problem with the gear. But that's for a different discussion.

 

Amsoil does NOT void warranties. I could go into a rather lengthy post on the subject of Amsoil, but facts speak louder than words. Talking to someone about oil and such is analagous to talking about politics. Each person has there mind made up and usually one or the other is too hard headed to admit to the others postion, no matter what the tests show.

It's nice to have science on our side.