Hope someone might be able to shed some light on a check engine light and code P1443. Removed evap. canister and inspected it appears fine. Checked purge valve tested fine...cant find a way to test the thermistor so skipped that. Replaced vac. lines from canister to engine. I just recently bought it and today after pulling back in the garage I noticed a fuel smell between the cab and bed. I have already replaced the fuel cap and crawled down and inspected fuel fill line and can see no damage or cracks. The vent line from the tank to canister doesnt look that great, might need to be replaced I guess. Has anyone else had an issues with a leak on top of the fuel tank causing a check engine light. I just removed the bed liner and I'm soaking the bolts now. Any idea what they call the bit that will fit the bed bolts as well? I'm gonna need one for sure. Thanks in advance this thing has had many issues Im working them all out from help I have found on this forum....what a aid this place has been.

 

If you have a cracked filler neck, it's allowing the fuel system to depressurize. That will often set a CEL, just as if you'd left the cap off.

 

Well I have now taken the bed off and found the fuel fill hose to be split right above the clamping area at the tank. It appears to be related to FORD crushing a round hose to a oval shape with the use of a clamp like device to obtain bed clearance. After finding mine in this condition I have found 2 more local vehicles with the same problem. The Local FORD dealership wants 268.00 dollars for a new hose.....I have since filled a complaint with the MTSB after reading other complaints on this web site.....what happened to the days of a 18 or 20 dollar fuel hose.....Luckily today only about a half gallon of fuel went on the ground but it did leave us both feeling ill by the time we made it home.

 

juggshunter,

My 91 ranger has the same issue. I noticed this over 6 years ago. I could feel the crack in the hose. I used some 3M black goopy sealant to cover the cracked area. It has worked for some time now.

The only other place you may find a fuel hose similar to what the dealer would carry would be a boat marina. We have alot of them around here, but i never looked because the 3M stuff worked for me. Good luck on your fix.

 

yeah must people underestimate the power of glue and poxy if you know exactly where it is use a 60 sec poxy or JB WELD and you can solve the problem for sure. sometimes patching is alot better then paying for 300 dolars hoses.

 

Three things:

First, I was under the impression that this was a special two part hose with an inner and outer hose. If it's just a standard hose, NAPA still sells them. I know because I bought a hose from NAPA for my old 1980 1 ton van 2 or 3 years ago.

Secondly, I have to admit I never even considered an adhesive. Off hand, does anyone know what adhesive would remain flexible and be fuel resistant?

Lastly, is there supposed to be a "hose clamp" at the upper end of the hose, at the filler end?

 

They are a 2 part hose.....and being a smoker I didnt feel real good about sitting on top a fuel leak smoking. Got the new hose from Ford it was 214.00 with tax. Installed new hose and no more smell. While the bed was off I changed rear differental oil and now have a anti lock brake light. I am begining to wonder if these truck have to have some type of dash warning light on at all times....maybe to make up for the crappy dash lighting>? So lets see in 2 weeks time I have replaced a thermostat, brake booster, master cyclinder, plug wires and plugs, upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, air and oil filters, fuel fill hose, serpentine belt, tranny fluid, bleed clutch, differental fluid, brake light switch and a catyaltic convertor.....and used 2 cans of contact cleaner and a can of di electric gel and it still has issues....but it has been kinda fun having something to work on....I GUESS....hopefully getting close to resolving all the issues now. Maybe someone can help me with this...when turning on ignition key I hear the fuel pump start and when it or the check engine or ABS light goes out I get a loud pop thru the stero speakers....any ideas?...plus the radio **** wont stay depressed to keep the unit off...hopefully someone else might have experienced this and can lend some advice....thanks to all on this forum as I have been able to resolve most of the issues by others advice.

 

The ABS system has a sensor on top of the rear, make sure everthing is OK there to start.

 

Yeah you probably jostled the sensor while changing the diff fluid, especially if the bed was off it would be easier for you to hit the stuff up top.

 

Ken I checked the sensor with a ohm meter it checked ok...removed sensor cleaned it and re o ringed and reinstalled it...cleaned the plug and applied di electric gel.....went up to the RABS VALVE and pulled plug and cleaned terminals there. While under the truck I noticed the emergency brake cable was yanked almost out of the cable holder, released emergency brake and re installed cable into holder. Is it possible I have a rear brake adjustment problem causing this...while on jack stands when I spin the rear wheels the driver side brake is dragging on half of the revoloution. I have attempted to find the RAB diagonistic connector so I can short the system and read the flashing codes....Im still looking...any ideas on the radio popping noise.? Would it be wise to pull apart the connectors under the hood near the fuse circuit breaker (below) going thru the firewall, the ones with a bolt holding them together and clean and inspect them. I attepted to remove rear wheels and dont have a big enough 6 point socket...my goodness they are tight. So tommorow I guess I will get my first look at the front and rear brakes....Im sure they need replacing as well. I have done disc brakes before....but drums kinda scare me.

 

On the radio issue, I'd guess that the radio itself has a problem within the power supply. If you have a buddy with a similar truck, I wouldn't take 5 minutes to swap your radio for his and verify if it's the radio or not. As to the **** issue, my 97 AM/FM/CD has the same problem with the **** not staying pressed in. Since it works fine otherwise, I just got used to turning the volume down instead of off.

To the brakes:

Drum brakes are irritating because of the quantity of pieces, but they're not hard. The biggest thing is to remember where they fit and in what order. Usually, if you get lost on the first one, you can go to the other side, take the drum off and see how it's supposed to go. Another easy suggestion, if you have the technology available, is to take a picture or two with a digital or polaroid camera before you disassemble.

Having said all that, I've never had a problem doing it from memory. You should be fine.

 

Do you have rear or 4 wheel ABS?

The radio thing sounds like it just due to it always being on.

 

Ken thank god it only has 2 wheel ABS....tonight I finally got the rims and tires off. Then I attempted to remove the drums...driver side came right off...passenger side was a real pain...finally got them off. It appears the drivers side has been dragging and that the drum has more wear than the other side. Went out and picked up some new pads and a few tools spring removers and an adjustment tool...they didnt have a cylinder spring holder type of tool.... so tonight I get the night off early from the garage. Tommorow I will take the drums down to be turned or junked...not sure the one will make it within tolerances. I have a chiltons book and have taken some digital pictures for reference just in case I get in over my head...I have never done drum brakes before so this should be a learning experience. Any Ideas on what the best grease would be to use on things...backing plates ect...Before putting it back together I am gonna re-bleed brakes...I thought I had them pretty good....I bleed them all when I replaced the booster and master till I had nice clean fluid to all wheels...but maybe a bubble remained somewhere in the system or in the RABS valve...pedal felt good thou...well heck what am I saying...when I bought it and drove it home it had blown booster and a leaking master....so really no reference...but its alot better now...lol.....Im truely thankful for all you guys help....on the radio front I dont think the popping is related to any of the warning lights or fuel pump making pressure prior to start....this morning it did it when I turned the key to acc...I have had the negative off so many times in the last 2 weeks I think i might install a marine battery switch in line to speed things up. Tommorow the new purge flow assembly thing will be in from Ford....Im really hoping that does away with the P1443 code once and for all....fingers crossed.....Free'd up a little shelf space in the garage tonight when I found out I had been storing 3 near empty cans of brake clean....of course afer I went to the auto parts store....So it wasnt a waste of a day after all....

 

I use the same dielectric grease you use for the spark plug wire boots. Just a VERY thin film, don't over do it. Make sure you clean the adjusters real good, then lub them.

The test connector should be hung from the power distribution box.

 

Great news...I may have gotten the Check Engine Light and the ABS issues finally resolved...Drove it today made a highway cruise and a few spins around town and no problems. Replaced the purge flow assembly and that got rid of the p1443 code I had been getting. On the ABS light I had the rear drums turned and installed new shoes and a spring kit and re adjusted the back brakes...found one auto adjuster messed up I still need to replace. Next project a clutch job...does anyone have any suggestions for a good daily driver clutch maybe pulling a small boat on occasions? Should I go back with factory ford parts or go after market?......Thanks to all who helped me along with advice on my projects so far......