Who's done leaf spring bushings??
#1
Who's done leaf spring bushings??
I got under the truck today to take a look at my springs in hopes to find some obvious failures that may be contributing to my wierd cruising vibrations and noticed that my spring eye / shackle bushings are in tough shape. LMC lists some Energy Suspension bushings for $50. Have any of you done the swap? Do I need a shop press or can I use an oversized vice to do the pressing? -I did my U joints using a vice. Do any of you advice for the R & R?
#2
Who's done leaf spring bushings??
Howdy! They're fairly easy to do if you keep a few key things in mind.
(a) Think safety...COMPLETELY un-load the suspension before you start taking the spring shakle bolts out and removing the springs.
(b) Assume the bolts and nuts are junk and plan to replace them with the EXACT same size and grade. You may need to simply cut the heads off and drift the bolts out.
(c) Contrary to any BAD advice that's out there, DO NOT use a torch to burn out the old rubber bushings. Bad ju-ju for your spring temper!
Simply press out (or punch out) the old bushings.
(d) Completely wire brush all the bushing bores in the springs. Be sure to get off all traces of the old bushings.
(e) There are diferent approaches to installing the new bushings depending on if they're lubed w/ a Zerk fitting or not.
Personally, I apply a little soap solution to the OUTER part of the new bushings and press them in SQUARE with the bore. Your shop vice should work, but go slow. You can also make up a bolt/washers/nut jig and crank them in by hand. Your choice. The goal is to have the rubber "grab" the eye of the spring and pivot around the shackle bolt when it's all back together and working. That's why no lube on the outer part of the bushing.
(f) Reverse your steps to put it all back together and use a rubber compatable lube like Sil-glide applied to the shackle through-bolts and rubber faces of the shackle housing.
(g) Find out what the torque values of your specific rig's suspension are and use a torque wrench on all the bolts/nuts you're working on.
(h) use some aresol motorcycle chain lube (the kind that has moly in it)on the sliding surfaces between each suspension leaf. Don't use OIL, it collects dirt and will grind your suspension up.
(i) when it's all back together and on the ground, jump up and down in your bed a few times to 'settle' your spring set and listen for sounds that don't belong. The neighbors will think your crazy, but you know better, right?
Hope this helps, let us know how it goes!
John
(a) Think safety...COMPLETELY un-load the suspension before you start taking the spring shakle bolts out and removing the springs.
(b) Assume the bolts and nuts are junk and plan to replace them with the EXACT same size and grade. You may need to simply cut the heads off and drift the bolts out.
(c) Contrary to any BAD advice that's out there, DO NOT use a torch to burn out the old rubber bushings. Bad ju-ju for your spring temper!
Simply press out (or punch out) the old bushings.
(d) Completely wire brush all the bushing bores in the springs. Be sure to get off all traces of the old bushings.
(e) There are diferent approaches to installing the new bushings depending on if they're lubed w/ a Zerk fitting or not.
Personally, I apply a little soap solution to the OUTER part of the new bushings and press them in SQUARE with the bore. Your shop vice should work, but go slow. You can also make up a bolt/washers/nut jig and crank them in by hand. Your choice. The goal is to have the rubber "grab" the eye of the spring and pivot around the shackle bolt when it's all back together and working. That's why no lube on the outer part of the bushing.
(f) Reverse your steps to put it all back together and use a rubber compatable lube like Sil-glide applied to the shackle through-bolts and rubber faces of the shackle housing.
(g) Find out what the torque values of your specific rig's suspension are and use a torque wrench on all the bolts/nuts you're working on.
(h) use some aresol motorcycle chain lube (the kind that has moly in it)on the sliding surfaces between each suspension leaf. Don't use OIL, it collects dirt and will grind your suspension up.
(i) when it's all back together and on the ground, jump up and down in your bed a few times to 'settle' your spring set and listen for sounds that don't belong. The neighbors will think your crazy, but you know better, right?
Hope this helps, let us know how it goes!
John
#3