I am working on my sister's 2000 Ranger 2.5l that just had the timing belt snap. I have a Haynes manual that is assisting me, but it's not clear on how to re-align the timing marks if the belt broke. It says to make sure TDC is on the compression stroke, well, it doesn't work that way if the cam isn't turning with it, or does it? I just need some extra help to make sure i get it aligned correctly so i don't have to tear it down a second time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Eric

2000 Ranger 2.5L, auto, 2wd. SOHC

 

Welcome to FTE!!

It is important to have it at TDC before you start, below is the procedure from my Ford manual.

Installation

Make sure the crankshaft is at TDC on piston No. 1, with the crankshaft keyway pointing straight up and the circle on crankshaft sprocket aligned with notch in engine front cover (6019).

Align the timing marks.
Align the crankshaft sprocket mark to the front cover notch.
Align the oil pump sprocket diamond to the engine front cover diamond.
Align the camshaft sprocket triangle to the engine front cover triangle.

Install the timing chain/belt over the crankshaft sprocket (6306), proceeding counterclockwise over the oil pump sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket.

Loosen the bolt allowing the tensioner pulley to press against the timing chain/belt.

NOTE: The timing belt tensioner must not be tightened or belt tension will not be distributed over the entire belt.

Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise. Bring crank slowly to number one position firing position (keyway on crank facing up). The dot on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the notch on the front cover.
Recheck timing mark alignment. Repeat if required.
Tighten the bolts.

Install the crankshaft pulley.

Tighten the bolt.

Install the outer timing belt cover.
Tighten the bolt.

Install the exhaust side spark plugs. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07A .

 

Thank you for the welcome.

Thank you for this info. Since the belt broke, all i need to do is really align everything properly and re-install the new belt? That'll be easy enough, if i can get the crank bolt off now. Any ideas for an easy removal of the the crank bolt? I have a impact gun and it's just not doing it at this time. I have nothing for leverage to use a breaker bar. I gave up for the day, maybe i'll get it tomorrow. Start fresh and not frustrated. lol.

Thanks for this info.

Eric

 

When I have stubborn bolts, I will put a wrench or ratchet on the bolt and pound the other end with a hammer. It's basically a poor-man's impact. If you get a good fit with the wrench and enough room to swing, it can work better than an impact.

Your damper probably just won't slide off, either. You may need a damper pulley. The rest of the job sounds fairly straight forward. Each sprocket should have timing marks to match up. You should spin the crank 2 revolutions after installing the new belt and recheck timing marks before reinstalling the rest. I've got a '99 2.5 with 104K and am trying to make time to replace the original belt. Hope I get around to it b4 it breaks.

good luck, Jim

 

Yeah, i've done the hammer whack before, the only problem this time, is the crank will spin with me. My advice to you is first, before any disassembly, is to at least loosen the crank bolt, while you still have pressure from the drive belt and all. I would also reccomend getting it before it breaks. This is being a booger worse then i thought it would be. I do have a puller for the damper, so that's not a problem. Just this dang bolt. I'll post when it's done and how it went afterwards. Shouldn't be too bad once i get the bolt loose.

Thanks for all the info.

Eric

 

Ok, this thing is about to drive me nuts. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the crank bolt loose? I have an impact and have tried a breaker bar with a hammer and nothing seems to be wanting to break this bolt loose. I have researched the Haynes manual and the internet and haven't found anything that says the bolt could be a reverse thread. Is the bolt a reverse thread or is it really just a pain to get loose? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Eric

 

They arent left handed threads, are they? thats all.

 

Hereis a thread about it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ht=timing+belt

Dave

 

Well, as you can see by the dates, it took a while but the bolt is finally removed. I will pass this very helpful info along. I hope it's not here and i didn't see it. lol. But, the magic trick to remove the crank bolt was a breaker bar with a cheater tube on it and the ground under the truck. I put the breaker bar on the bolt head and laid the other end on the ground and simply tried to start the engine. Just bumping it a few times, and pop goes the bolt. That was a very quick and easy method of the crank bolt removal. Maybe this will help someone down the road or even on other models. I'm just glad i finally got the bolt loose.

Now, i have to find a crank positioning sprocket/gear for this thing. To my back luck with it, i some how rounded off a tooth on it and a Ford mechanic told me it wouldn't start with the rounded tooth. The only bad part about that is, Ford doesn't have any in stock and said he doesn't see one anywhere. I hope i can find one elsewhere. If anyone knows where i can find one, please let me know.

Thanks for all the info.

Eric

 

Also, if anyone knows the exact name for that crank positioning sprocket/gear, please let me know. I have searched the net with several different terms and can't seem to even find a pic of it. It is the gear that triggers the crank positioning sensor.

Thanks in advance yet again.

Eric

 

are you thinking of the harmonic balancer?

 

It sit's behind the harmonic balancer. It triggers the crankshaft positioning sensor. It's between the balancer and the timing gear. I haven't gotten the balancer removed yet, so i'm not sure as to how it mounts on the crankshaft.

 

To remove the balancer bolt that a impack wont remove you have to take a breaker bar with the right size socket and place the breaker bar where the end is near the frame about a inch lower than the frame on the passenger side. Then you turn the key to start for a second. When you hit the starter this will break the bolt loose when the breaker bar hits the frame and the starter turns the crank. Remember just hit start for a second and make sure nobody is near the front of the truck for safety reasons

 

Thanks, but 3 people have finally told me that trick and now the bolt is out. Since it was sitting in grass, i put it on the ground instead of against the frame and bumped it twice and it came right out. I wish i would have herd about this before i did a stupid thing and rounded a tooth on the crank gear. Oh well, learn from my mistakes is all i can do. Thanks for the info, although i already got that info and it did work.

Eric

 

Oh boy, before i got the crank bolt out, i screwed up. Now i have to find a part that the dealer doesn't have at the moment. Does anyone know of any places that might carry the crankshaft positioning sensor GEAR/SPROCKET? Not the sensor itself, but the gear that mounts behind the harmonic balancer? Ford doesn't have any in stock or in any location around. Not sure if they will have one anytime soon, but they are hounding me about getting this truck back on the road and all i need is that gear. I know someone will ask or want to know, but i chose the wrong path to take before i was told a method of removing the crank bolt, but i used the gear for leverage and of course, now you know i screwed it up. lol. I learned from this mistake. Any info on a place i can get that gear would really be appreciated.

Thanks for listening and reading and also for info when given.