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How do you go about reinstalling a distributor correctly? I pulled my engine and in order to not damage anything, pulled the distributor too. I did some minor gasket replacing on the engine, but didn't touch the harmonic ballancer and such. I assume i can find TDC on the number one piston without removing the valve cover by removing the spark plug and turning the crank till i feel compression. Next, will set the diagram on the crank to 6 DBTDC. I assume from that point i can drop the dist. in (the hex key is still in the engine part of the shaft). and rotate the assembly so octagonal thing is in the firing position. Then, set the cap into place so the rotor is going to spark #1. Is this correct? Is it the easiest way?
Well you seem to have the basics down. Just remember the distributor shaft will rotate as the gears slide into mesh. Watch the swing of the distributor in its "resting place" to make sure you have plenty of adjustment room.
To add to what Torque1st said, while you are doing all this, the dist might not go down all the way into the block. This might happen because the hex shaft that drives the oil pump may not line up. Take the dist back out and turn the oil pump shaft with a socket, and then try again if this happens.
Mark the #1 cylinder on the distributor base by sighting down the cap. Find TDC of the #1 cyl. Assuming that your harmonic balancer is ok, and the marks havent moved, and the pointer is at 0, get ready to drop the dizzy in. Align rotor with the mark you made, turn it back about 1/8 of a turn (counter clockwise I think.) When you drop it in, it will rotate into place where your mark is at. Place dizzy into motor, and with a remote starter switch, (coil wire grounded, truck in park, parking brake set, wheels chocked) bump the motor over a couple of times till the dizzy falls into place. This is the laziest way to get the dizzy to go in, and also risky. If you have some patience, and don't like the idea of using the motor, use a 5/16", 1/4" drive socket and a 12" extension to turn the oil pump shaft a 'lil bit and try putting it in again. Also, make sure you tape the socket to the extension so it is less likely to fall into the motor. With the coil wire still disconnected, crank the motor till you have oil pressure, make the proper electrical connections, it up, fire it up, set timing, and away you go.
Tony
'77 F250, 4X4 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250, '73 F250, Livin' in Work Truck heaven
****DISCLAIMER**** This guy knows nothing, so don't listen to him.
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