Need some help with my 53 F100 that is running hot……hasn’t overheated yet but is very close. Here’s my story: I purchased a 1953 F100 with a GM drive train from a 79 Z28…electric windows, A/C and a fun ride that has a super paint job. I bought the truck as my daily driver after returning from 13 months in the sand box of the middle east (active duty Air Force) under the pretense the previous owner assured me it ran at 180 with the A/C on all day. Well the great day arrived as the car hauler pulled into my drive on a 95+ day in Fayetteville NC. Within minutes the temp hit 220 before the thermostat let go and the truck leveled out at 190 without the A/C on. I did the normal (remember this is the first time I’ve see the truck in person) check fluid levels, fan belt and leaks. Everything checked out and the truck hovered around 180 going down the road until I hit traffic when the temp inched up to 210 and I got back on the open road. I have flushed the system, changed the thermostat and even drilled 3 1/8 inch holes in it. The temp now climbs very slowly but still heads for the 210+ in traffic without A/C and close to 190 now at 65. The 14 inch flex fan (racing type) needs to go I’m sure and the half shroud does little in the way of allowing the full use of the re cored original 53 radiator. The fan is also fully inside the shroud which I believe is adding to the problem. I think the sending unit is working fine as the temp climb has now changed since I drilled the holes in the thermostat. One other issue might be the ability to allow the heat from the radiator out of the engine compartment as there are no louvers or vents?? The engine is all stock with factory manifolds and has a Weber 650. Pipes are super traps with custom made bends and no restrictions or sharp angles. Any suggestions as to what I need to do first on the temp issue would be much appreciated.

 

Did the previous owner even live in a town? He may not have known it ran warm in traffic if he had never driven in real traffic. I used to think congested traffic was two cars at the same four way interesection untit I moved to SanDiego while in the Navy. Get a good thermostat I had a cheap 190° in my Jeep and it would get hotter than I liked. I splurged and bought the same temp thermostat better quality $12.00 it helped. Is it an automatic? If it is where is the tranny cooler? If it is in front of the radiator move it to under the truck bed. If it is a manual you can add additional cooling by adding a secondary radiator in places like under the bed. Put it inline where the heater would normally go.

I wouldn't be worried about that temp right now, my Jeep creeps up to 210 lets go then runs at 190 all day might climb up to 200 in traffic.

 

Chris


The Guy who built the truck lives in Kentucky and I'm sure your right that traffic was 2 or 3 cars so not a problem. The A/C condesor and trans cooler are both in front of the radiator and the cheap a** flex fan draws little air. Does the trans cooler need air flow or is under the bed fine?

Bill

 

I am not sure what size of cooler you have. Since heat is the killer of an automatic transmission just like a engine. I would get a temperature gage for the transmission so you can see how cool or warm it is running now. Most people don't know that their transmission is running hot until it quits. For some reason people always check the motor for overheating, a transmission lost do to overheating can cost just as much.Then depending on the size of cooler you have I would mount what you have between the frame rails under the bed and put an electric fan for air movement or get a large cooler and use passive heating. I personally would start with the largest cooler I could get between the frame rails under the bed. Then if that did not work I would add a fan. Take a look at a few salvage yards you can most likely find a large external cooler on a wrecked large truck with an automatic such as an F350 with a towing package. I also don't think a good cooler is that expensive new. That also depends on what rank you are.

 

Bill -

Welcome to FTE! And, welcome back from the sandbox. Your truck sounds like fun.

I have to second the things that Chris said, especially about getting the tranny cooler out of the front. Both the AC condenser and tranny cooler heat air as it passes on its way to cool the water. Adding one between the rails under the bed is a great idea. I did custom brackets and put together a radiator with temp switched fan for both tranny and oil under the cab, but Chris' solution sounds more affordable. Definately get a good quality thermostat. The temp gages for tranny and oil are also good ideas for the reasons mentioned. Also, adding them makes the dash look like a cockpit (something you might enjoy).

I really like electric fans on the radiator. They are inexpensive, don't rob power, clean things up under the hood, are more efficient than motor-driven fans and only come on when needed (when temp switched). Mine is mounted directly to the radiator (pulling) with no shroud. (I started running it with a shroud, but it works better without one). My 56 runs a cammed 351C with the usual goodies and never runs over 190 even in 100+ degree stop and go traffic. If you decide to go that way, I have part numbers, etc. Given that Ch**y engines are usually more cold-blooded than Fords, air flow is your answer.

Good Luck!

 

I know you 've flushed the system, but maybe the radiator needs to be cleaned out. A few plugged tubes can wreak havoc on cooling.

 

Some Chevy engines just like to run warm...expecially modified ones. I had a 29 Ford with a modified 350 that was like that. I ran a 180 thermostat, Walker Radiator, multi-bladed fan, shroud, and an external tranny cooler mounted under the car but even with all that it wanted to run 190 degrees especially in the summer and 210 to 220 in traffic. I finally got used to it even though I wanted to see 180 on the temp gauge. You are right about the shroud. The fan should just be just enough inside so that air exits at a 45 degree angle for maximum effectiveness. I would also look at trying to use a larger diameter fan if you have the room or one with more blades or more pitch on the blades. If that doesn't work you can always go to an electric fan as Randy suggested but I prefer a mechanical one as long as it does the job. As far as letting heat out the the engine compartment, there's not much you can do there, but check out the air coming into the radiator. Be sure you have air deflectors so that air is entering the grille is also entering the radiator and not bypassing it. This goes for underneath also. Sometimes the air deflector just in front of the radiator is left off and air coming in goes underneath the truck instead of through the radiator.

Vern

 

I'm with Randy Jack, I like electric fans. My favorite being CCI shrouded at $209.00. Does its best work at idle with the A/C on. Replaced the unshrouded electric on my 46 with one. I am very pleased with the difference. I am of the belief that a windsor Ford motor is the cold natured of the two, at least that has been my experience. Joe

 

I have a friend who put a shroud around a flex fan. The fan was completly inside the shroud and it made the truck run hotter than without it. The fan blades should be half way in the shroud.
____________________
XFM
'53 F100

 

Howdy,

Congrats on coming back!! I retired from the USAF in JAN 04 and I got to do this last war twice!(once in 1990/91 and again in 2003)

I noticed that you did not say that you checked with a known gage. You might want to find another gage to check it against before you go too far. Some of these gages can be way off! I'll second the radiator check too. That radiator might have some plugged tubes that did not cause a problem until the truck was ran in warm wx.

Having the fan inside the shroud might be what you want if the fan is big enough to move the correct amount of air. It's all about CFM through the radiator. If you don't move enough air thru the radiator (or enough coolant: plugged tubes) you won't cool the engine when it's working. Also, if the radiator is plugged and you put hot air through the radiator (aircondx condensor infront of the radiator) it won't do the job when you work it either!

No electric fan can move as much air as a fan connected to the engine. Engine driven fans can take as much as 15 hp or so to run. 1 hp= 746watts at 14v. 746w requires about 53 AMPS. A 15hp 14v DC motor would require around 800 AMPS!! (just like a starter!) Most of those little electric fans draw no more than 50 amps or so.

Most cars and trucks running down the road at freeway speeds don't require much HP to maintain 60 or so on a flat road and there's usually enough CFM across the radiator from "ram effect" the fan is not needed. But when you put a load on it a slow speed or slow way down and put hot air across the radiator it will require lots of airflow to keep the temps down.

Sorry for the long dissertation!.......I was an Electrical Engr before I was a C-17 driver!


Regards,

Rick

 

Going back to what Texas Bob has to say: What do you have for a radiator? 3core, 4, core and the capacity of the radiator. If the truck was just sitting around while you were busy (btw. Thanks for doing that and coming back home safely) then who knows what may have "collected" inside the radiator. Flushing may clear it however sometimes they need the "rod". If the temperature behaves as it should without the A/c on and does not with the A/C on, my first guess is that your radiator is too small (capacity).

Also remember that many vehicles normal temperature is 195 degrees or so for maximum efficiency and emission control.


Keep us informed.

Russ

 

I had a stock 4 core rad in my 54. It was doing its best to cool a 289 with A/C condensor and a trany cooler mounted in front. The electric fan did a good job except on very hot days in slow traffic. I changed out the rad to a super-stock from Midfifty and it fixed everything so that the truck ran 180-190 even in heavy traffic. The rad is about $400. Lety us know how it turns out. Good luck, Jag

 

I love electric fans. Just make sure your alternator can handle the increased load if you go that route.

 

Thanks to all for the info and welcome back! I had a good look over the truck tonight and the bottom air defector is missing. THe A/C hoses and trans cooler lines msut have prevented the builder from putting it back in. The rad is a re cored 3 row from a 6 cylinder as the the top out let is in the center and the bottom is on the passenger side....is this correct? It is clear as I had a good look afte the flush and the tubes all appear clear at least on the tops. The 3 holes in the thremostat have made the temp rise very slowly now but at 65+ the truck starts to hit 195+ and I assume this is due to the air passing under the rad verses thur it. THere is a good size gap under the rad and a huge amount of air must be just flying by. I'm going to have to fab some sheet metal to cover this larrge gap. On the gauge, I called the original builder today (found him on the net) and he stated the truck ran cool (still don't see how) and that it would spike to 220 before the thermostat let go (he stated he changed it 4 times with the same results and I did it twice with same reaction) and settle at 180 on the highway at 55. Still not sure where to start but I think switching to a shroud and a larger direct drive fan, along with a lower air defector is my way ahead. If anyone knows where I can find a used shroud please let me know at lesleyconnelly@hotmail.com. And for the Globemaster 3 driver, I'm an Aerial Porter...the guys who put the stuff in the back end. Many thanks Bill

 

I think you're on the right track, if the mechanicals are correct then cooling is all about air flow, especially if idles hot and cools off at driving speeds. I once corrected a heating problem by putting a restrictor in the LOWER radiator hose to keep the coolant in the fins a little longer. good luck