Hi, folks; I was cutting class the day that Trailer towing and Hitches 101 was taught, and now it is time to figure out the cheapest way to safely move a trailer given my circumstances:<o =""></o>

Trailer: Mid-sized (up to 30') travel trailer I intend to buy for temporary living quarters. Probably 60 miles or less, and probably only one or two trips, so I'm willing to be a bit overloaded. I'm guessing weight over 5,000lb but under 10,000lb.

<o =""></o>Tow Vehicle: Ford E250 van; I've had it a year, and it is a well-behaved overpowered beast for what I've done with it so far. I do have the specs for the vehicle, but the towing equipment is just on the vehicle without any manuals or explanation.

<o =""></o>GVWR 8550; Front GAWR 3850; Rear GAWR 5336. When I took a load of trash to the dump it weighed in at 6300 with just myself inside; I figure it will weight 6500~7000 when I'm towing. Having rotated tires with a manual jack, I'm sure that most of the weight is on the front axle when it is empty, so the front axle is probably near its rating and the rear is waaaay under its rating. If I do load the rear axle up, I'll pump the rear tires up to 80psi; I keep them around 60psi like the front tires for going "unloaded".

<o =""></o>The E250 van has a 7.3l diesel engine with 3.54 rear axle. The Ford manual seems to be telling me that for a 3500-7100 trailer my GCWR is 12,000 which seems to leave 5000-5500 max weight for the trailer. The manual says I need a transmission cooler, and there is one. It also mentions a Handling/Suspension package, and I've got no idea if I have that or not.

<o =""></o>I do have a hitch that appears to be rated for 5000lb and is bolted to the frame. It says it would be 10,000 if it was weight distributing instead. I don't have the square bit with the trailer ball that slides into the hitch.

<o =""></o>The electrical connector is a round socket that has 7 wires going to it and has 6 contacts in a ring around the center one. I plan to look up the pinout and verify proper operation, since I smooshed it a little when parking by feel once (oops!).

I've heard of brake controllers, and somebody said I need one. I don't know about that, but there is a variable resistor mounted on the firewall near the brake pedal that adjusts for "light trailer <-------> heavy trailer". It is wired into something, and clearly not by Ford.

Here's my questions:

<o =""></o>1. What towing equipment do I need? The guy at the RV place seemed to think it would run me around $500 for the hitch, presumably installed. I was hoping for less since I'm looking at cheap used trailers ($5000 or so), and thought my vehicle had been used for towing by the previous owner, so expected it to be ready.<o =""></o>

2. Do I have a brake controller or something else? In either case, what does it do and how should I adjust it...or how can I tell if it is adjusted correctly?

3. How much trailer can I really tow? If I need to take it easy and slow, I'm quite willing to do that, but I don't even know at what point I really need to start taking extra precautions.

 

First, a hitch attatched to the frame is a must. They are available at Lowe's, autoparts stores, etc. if your handy and have a few tools.

Second, sounds like you may have some kind of controller. Usually they are mounted inside the cab in drivers reach. Why? Because each trailer should be properly adjusted for. That means setting the gain and sensitvity. With a trailer at that weight, IT IS A MUST. They are also available, if you want to tackle it.

Also, GCWR is gross combined weight rating. In other words, what the van (loaded) and trailer (loaded) can weigh TOGETHER must not excede 12,000 pounds. I couldn't interpret what the van weighs from your discription, so lets say it weighs 6,000 pounds loaded, then the trailer could only weigh 6,000.

Handling/susp, was probally heavyier duty shocks, anti-sway bars, etc. You can tow without them, it just makes it easier. AS far as the harness, look at http://www.hitches4less.com/trailer-...-diagrams.html
It shows proper wiring and what they are.

Now, from the "off the record" section. I have over my life growing up on a farm towed many things and many trailers. Alot were overloaded (like hay trailers) and some were done without brake controllers. If your not used to pulling a trailer, don't attempt without a controller. It could save your life or someone elses. As far as the specs. of what you gave, the engine is very capable of that weight, problem is brkes, suspension and other van components. If you can, try it out in a parking lot. You'll be able to tell pretty quickly.

 

Thanks for all the advise here....after reading your response and a bit more web surfing I'm getting a better idea about what I have/need.

I'm a little confused about words like "hitch" and "receiver". I do have a hunk of steel that is bolted to the van's frame, and it has a 2" square hole I can slide something into. I know I need something that slides in and has a ball on it (probably 2 5/16" size)

As for the GCWR, my van weighed about 6300 w/o the back seat, but that is back in. I could probably remove it if it would matter. That leaves me with 5,700 left for the trailer and "hitch"

Off the record, what really is overloaded? I doubt that handling/braking will all fall apart at 1lb over the GCWR. Then what about 10lb, 100lb, 1000lb? Is a percentage excess a better measure? 1000lb over would be about 8% in my case. Or is overage in the tongue weight what I should be more concerned about?

Lastly, I'm still trying to figure out the brake controller thing. I think all I've got is something to change how hard the brakes are yanked when I push on the pedal--it has this variable resistor that could handle a decent bit of power, but no sign of any electronic smarts. If I buy one, would a cheap and simple one be good enough for light use?

 

Well, you're part-way to being able to tow a trailer 60 miles: You have a "reciever hitch", that is an underframe metal attachment that allows the trailer weight to be transferred to the frame of your E250 instead of all of it being on the bumper. It still has restrictions as to how much weight it should be subjected to without an extra item called a "weight-distributing hitch". If you are going to attempt to tow without one, you need to be somewhat discrimating about how heavy a trailer you get and how much of its weight is on the trailer "tongue" or the part of the trailer that connects to the truck. Your best bet is to find a trailer you have some interest in, and get it attached to your truck before making a deal on it. You should be able to connect the trailer electric plug into your truck electric plug (if the plug is operational) and check to see if lights and brakes work. at this point, you're gonna have to make a decision about how stupid you want to be: If the trailer connected to the van doesn't set the frame on the axles; if the brake controller works; if--if--if then you may be able to tow it to the job site. If the trailer squats the van too low, you'll be constantly dragging on bumps and dips and may cause damage to the rear of the trailer if you pull into a steep drive. Try to find a trailer where the seller will include the WD type hitch and you should be better prepared to not have any serious problems. Other than all that, let this board know when you are making this pull, and we will try to stay out of your way.

 

whimsy, If you're new to the RV world you might want to go the a state park or a private RV park, introduce yourself to the campground host and tell him/her that you are a 'newbe' and you have some questions about hitches, etc. I agree with Mud Doc, don't buy any hitch componants until you locate your tailer. In the mean time get a test light and check the circuits of your electric connector. (If you go to a Ford Dealer, or public library they might be able to help you with electric diagrams and where the fuses are located, etc.) BTW, some of the electric circuits are only hot when the ignition key is on.

You might want to check out the Camping World web sight just to see what we are talking about when we say you might need a weight distributing hitch, solid tube adjustable ballmount, and spring bars.

I also agree with mud dog in trying to get the hitch parts included with the trailer. It could (should) save some money.

If you buy a trailer try to find a large parking lot to practice backing, which includes to check your mirrors for proper visablilty.

Good Luck

 

whimsy, You have a diesel powered E250 with a minumn class 3 receiver hitch, and you are wanting to pull a travel trailer 60 miles a couple three times???

Back that van of yours up to it and drive away. The brakes on the van will stop the combo fine, giving yourself extra room. Should you decide later that you want to go camping, you can purchase the weight dist. attachment, and get the trailer brakes working.

John

 

I had one of those sliding resistor-type deals on my '79 F-250 Camper Special when I bought it. It is a brake controller....the problem is that adjusting it means popping the hood, moving it, trying it, etc. I took it out and replaced it with a new one under the dash.

Like Jowilker said, your van should be able to handle the trailer without brakes, but if you have to drive through any towns on the way, I'd spend a few bucks and get a brake controller installed anyway. It only takes one idiot pulling out in front of you to pay for one, and if you ever start pulling a trailer regularly, you're going to have to anyway. I've pulled a flatbed trailer carrying other vehicles (Lincoln Mark VI, Dodge Ramcharger) without trailer brakes, but given a choice, I'd prefer to have at least another pair of brakes on the load.

 

Seems like you've got some good advise wimsy. If still confused, the square hole hold the actual "hitch ball" It will slide into the square hole, and has a locking pin to hold it in. It will need a ball attatched to it. The size of the ball depends on the trailer tongue.

Jo, is right. Off the record, you should be fine. I would practice though if not used to towing. I'm like mike, I have towed alot without a brake controller, and when that idiot pulls out in front of you, you'll wish you had the trailer brakes. Also, as far as overloaded, I used to pull a farm tractor on a 20' trailer with a F150 several times a year. It was short trips, but I know it was way overloaded. I did have extra springs as part of a lift kit. Don't recommend it, but it can be done.

 

Overloaded is what causes your insurance carrier to drop you or plaintifs to sue IF you get into an accident, be careful out there.

 

With your equipment I would just hook & go if it was only going to be the one time.
I have a brake controler and for the money...it's worth it. Depending on what year your van is, you probably have all the wireing in place already. All you have to do is buy the controler & plug in the wires then mount it someplace. Instructions come with it & a 10 yr old can hook it up. Just get a cheap one, if you find you are going to use one a LOT... you can always up grade. Most any auto parts store will have erverything you need, also Wal*Mart, any RV store, boat dealer...etc.