Rotor Removal HELP!!!!! You've got to be kidding!
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4
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Rotor Removal HELP!!!!! You've got to be kidding!
1997 Expedition.....
Having just changed the rotors on my friends 2001, I figured my 1997 would be no brainer!
I've tried all the obvious methods including sledge, torch heat, PB spray lubricant and even a gear puller which broke the outer edge of the rotor completely and damn near gave me a black eye when it popped off, hitting me in the face.
Are you sure I'm not missing something here? Big center spindle bolt, tack welds or something? I"m gonna break something if I hit it much harder with the sledge.
Can you cut these things off?
Anyone?
Having just changed the rotors on my friends 2001, I figured my 1997 would be no brainer!
I've tried all the obvious methods including sledge, torch heat, PB spray lubricant and even a gear puller which broke the outer edge of the rotor completely and damn near gave me a black eye when it popped off, hitting me in the face.
Are you sure I'm not missing something here? Big center spindle bolt, tack welds or something? I"m gonna break something if I hit it much harder with the sledge.
Can you cut these things off?
Anyone?
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Do a search for brake job, I just did the brakes on my 02, had a tough time but with a torch and a BFH i got it done.
Some folks have used a die cutter or dremel tool to cut the rotor between the lug nuts to relieve pressure. Others have use a 1/2 in bolt in the backing plate holes along with a nut to apply pressure on the rotor from behind...
I wish you luck...and be sure to coat the new rotors w/ anti seize compound it helps to reduce the chance of it happening again.
Some folks have used a die cutter or dremel tool to cut the rotor between the lug nuts to relieve pressure. Others have use a 1/2 in bolt in the backing plate holes along with a nut to apply pressure on the rotor from behind...
I wish you luck...and be sure to coat the new rotors w/ anti seize compound it helps to reduce the chance of it happening again.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 249
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rotor removal
Do a search - use trucker22 or search for rotor---you will find much advice---the bolt trick through the caliper support bracket works like a dream--no cutter or sledge needed in my 2000 with 65K on it in WI---good luck
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 878
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From: Cornelius, Oregon
Originally Posted by buzzard
I have a hard time keeping mine on when I'm working around my front end. In other words nothing really keeps them on other than the wheels.
Anyway, I guess I was lucky. I replaced all four rotors a couple months ago and they just popped right off. Nothing other than a little tug with my hands was required.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,960
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From: All over Texas
Originally Posted by pitrow
Um... wouldn't the caliper hold them in place?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Rotor observation
An interesting observation---yes the rotors are loose and held in place by the wheel usually. When pulling the wheel the pads hold it on but if its not tight to the hub the rotor will wiggle---therein lies the problem---I had a car once when I rotated the tires the rotors wiggled---no big deal. I torqued the wheels on. Went for ride---thought the brakes were gonna fall off! Terrible noises. Long story short, the back of the rotors had chunks of rust falling down to the bottom of the hub and the rust chunks interfered with the rotor tightening up evenly (flat) to the hub! So the rotor wobbled on the hub even though the wheel was bolted up tight! Took us sometime to figure this out---the lesson learned is remove those rotors clean the back side and apply small amount of rust proofing or Never Seize to prevent the back side from building up rust deposits that can either cause it to seize to the hub or cause problems when rotating tires.
Hope this helps someone out there!
Hope this helps someone out there!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,388
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From: Saratoga, NY
I do several brake jobs a day, what works for me and the guys I work with is use a 32 oz ball peen and give the rotor hat a few really good whacks between the studs then go around the back and beat the hell out of it, and I mean put your purse down and hit it! It might come apart in pieces but it works. Never needed a torch, and they use plenty salt up here brother!
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 86
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From: Omaha
I like using a dead blow hammer on the ones i've changed. Dead blow hammers have a hard plastic head on them so they don't hurt the rotor. Sometimes you have to act like your an Gorila and someone stole your banana. Good luck.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
It took a 45 pound solid metal wedge axe (a heavy metal triangle welded to a metal handle), a blowtorch, tons of lubricant, and three friends helping to beat the front rotors for 3 hours before we were able to remove them. My Expy only has 85K on it. We pounded on the front and rear of the rotors too.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: upstate NY
On my 97 EB Epy I just traded in June I had the rotors replaced in 2004 for the second time. I had a garage do it that I thought was pretty reputable and they told me it took 6 hrs of beating and cutting on the rotor to get it off.. I was worried about the heat from the torch but it seemed ok after.. Not a nice thing to have to do..
Good luck dude and watch your teeth when those puppies come off it seems like the world is coming withit..
Good luck dude and watch your teeth when those puppies come off it seems like the world is coming withit..
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
I have changed out several sets of rotors on Expy's and one set on my truck. I just take a pry bar or good sized screwdriver and pry on the back side of the rotor while tappping on the front of the rotor and center of the spindle. Usually it pops right off after 8-10 licks. The rotor is being held to the front of the spindle by rust not the ceter hole. And it always pays to sand the spindle before re-install.