Hi guys,

I have 2 problems here. Don't know if they are connected.

1. I have a noise when I turn the steering to the right. It's like something needs to be lubricated and I can feel it through the steering wheel.
This happens only at very low speeds like 5mph. During the course of turning the wheel +2 turns (like when I exit the garage into the alley) I will hear it twice at about the same spot on the turn of the wheel.

2. Front end noise from driver side. It feels and sound like something is loose but I can't find it. Also only at slower speeds (10-30mph). I can feel this one through the steering wheel too. It's very noticable when I do a slow left turn.

Any ideas ?

 

What year explorer is it? If it's a 91-94, it could be the radius arm bushings.

 

Wife's 99 mountaineer does the same thing only to the left. Curious to see what comes up.
Peace

 

I suggest to check inner/outer tie rod's ( both sides)

 

Sorry, it used to say in my sig but it's a 1998 XLT 4.0 SOHC AT.

 

I've seen a lot of stabilizer links break... and come clean off... doesn't look out of ordinary unless you look close because the whole thing is missing.

Good luck.

 

How can I trace the stabilizer link ? Where does it connect to ?

 

The stabilizer bar is the big bar attached to the front of the crossmember and it runs from the lower A-frame (control arm?) to the other. It attaches to a long bolt thru a spacer and helps minimize sway/lean. Mine rusted away this past winter but didn't fall out. Didn't notice it until I really poked around. The original spacer was "plastic" looking and stayed in place.

 

I've checked and the stabilizer bar and links look fine. Someone suggested it's the end part on the steering column. I'll check it next week.

 

I have a 98 explorer and had similiar noise in my steering and a groaning sound in my front end. Ended up being the steering gear and the stabilizer bar bushings. Replaced both and my noises were gone. Initially I thought it was the upper or lower arm bushings. I replaced the upper arms, still had the noise, started to replace the lower arms when I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that he believed it was the gear and the stabilizer bushings. Hope this helps. Noises are very frustrating to locate.

 

Where did you get your bushings from ? Pep boys don't have them. O'reillys don't have them. I'm going to try Autozone next.

 

Just get them from the dealer... the bushings themselves are just a few bucks, howeven there's a good chance the bolt will break upon removal.. you can get the whole kit and kaboodle for about $20 a side...

Or you can go aftermarket... it'll look more metal than plastic and probably cost about the same... I can't tell you from a performance standpoint which is better...

 

The dealer is out as well. I ordered them online and I hope the bolt will not break.

 

I took it to the mechanic and they said the front bearing is shot. I'm going to try and do it myslef and I need some advice.

When I take it all apart (I read here that it is not that difficult) do I have to take the big nut that is in the center of the hub, out as well ? If so then what size socket do I need and are there any special tools to help me do it ? Should I try to loosen it while the wheel is still on the ground ?

My ford dealer didn't have the bearing in stock so I have ordered it online (no luck in local shops as well).

In some places I read about locking hubs (automatic and manual). What exactly are they doing and how do I know if I have them on the truck ?

Just a reminder, mine is a 98 4X4 V6.

Thanks,
zoti

 

1> Remove the wheel

2> Remove the large axle nut (probably 32mm socket... might be 36mm) it will be hard to remove all the way to the end... this is due to the self locking nut design. Ford recommends a new nut be installed, however I usually just use threadlocker with no problems reusing old nut.

3> Remove the brake caliper - remove the lower caliper bolt (13mm socket i believe.. or wrench), pivit caliper up over pads, and slide caliper back, let it hang by brake hose, just don't pull down on it or anything as it may kink the hose.

4> Remove caliper bracket (2 bolts - 15mm socket).

5> Remove brake rotor (remove and discard locking aluminum "tabs" on studs if equipped, and it should fall off in your hands... if not spray penetrating oil around hub and lightly tap with hammer around studs (not ON studs) and that is usually all it takes)

6> Remove the four bearing bolts (15mm socket as well)... sometimes you have to get a little creative as the axle tends to get in the way

7> Tap on back side of hub and "walk" the bearing off... you might also have to tap on the end of the axle as well... Thread the axle nut on several threads first so you don't flare the end of the axle. NOTE: IF YOU HAVE ABS, YOU'LL HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE CONNECTOR UP BY THE FRONT BUMPER, AND REMOVE THE WIRE GUIDS AND THE WIRE WILL COME OUT WITH THE BEARING/HUB ASSEMBLY. (New bearing will have new wire)

Reassembly is just the opposite, just make sure you use thread lock on the axle threads, bearing/hub assembly bolts, and caliper bracket bolts. ALSO make sure you don't mix up the caliper bolts with the bearing bolts.. some look identical but have different thread pitch.. don't want to tear up the threads in the steering knuckle.

Also take the time to lube the caliper slide pins and where the brake pads mount at the caliper bracket as they tend to freeze up over time. (If it pulls when braking after you do this, you might have to lube up the other side as well). Compression of the caliper piston should not be necessary unless you put new brakes or rotors on it while performing this repair.

Good luck!