SBF Timing Chain Cover Removal [in Truck]?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: High Park, Toronto
SBF Timing Chain Cover Removal [in Truck]?
I've removed my leakin' water pump and snapped a bolt in the block so now I'm removing the timing chain cover to see if I can remove the stud from the block. 
ALthough I've removed the front four oil pan bolts and all the timing chain cover bolts I can see, the cover is tenaciously hold it's position.
I don't want to break anything more kand since the timing chain cover looks aluminum, I want to be gentle!
I'd like to avoid rmoving the oil pan since it's in the truck and with the Volare IFS Crossmember, it's pretty difficult getting at the oil pan bolts.
Do I have to remove the pan? Is there a trick to this operation?
I'd appreciate hearing from ya'll ASAP
I'm goin' back out under the truck.
GW
ALthough I've removed the front four oil pan bolts and all the timing chain cover bolts I can see, the cover is tenaciously hold it's position.
I don't want to break anything more kand since the timing chain cover looks aluminum, I want to be gentle!
I'd like to avoid rmoving the oil pan since it's in the truck and with the Volare IFS Crossmember, it's pretty difficult getting at the oil pan bolts.
Do I have to remove the pan? Is there a trick to this operation?
I'd appreciate hearing from ya'll ASAP
I'm goin' back out under the truck.
GW
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
If you are using the stock-style fuel pump, you need to take it off (it's just easier that way). If you have really gotten all the bolts, you should be good to go. As I recall, there are two alignment dowels used, so you want it to go straight forward. I'd give the cover a smack with a rubber mallet. Probably just a stuck gasket.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: East Flat Rock NC
I always losen two maybe more oil pan bolts each side past the cover, check
that all the bolts are lose and don't forget the one that is hiding behind the
timing pointer, unbolt timing pointer there is one behind it on the older ones!
that all the bolts are lose and don't forget the one that is hiding behind the
timing pointer, unbolt timing pointer there is one behind it on the older ones!
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Jul 3, 2005 at 05:00 PM.
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Elder User
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From: High Park, Toronto
Oil pan to timing cover gasket?
O.K., got the cover off and cleaned up.
1. > according to my Chilton's less than 1/2" play in the chain is acceptable.
what's been your experience.
2. > Can I fabricate a gasket for the space between teh timing cover and the oil pan?
LMK
GW
1. > according to my Chilton's less than 1/2" play in the chain is acceptable.
what's been your experience.
2. > Can I fabricate a gasket for the space between teh timing cover and the oil pan?
LMK
GW
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
You can get a decent chain set (w/sprockets) for $30, if there is any doubt just replace it. It's real hard to tell what a 1/2-inch is IMHO, because it's hard to get all the slop on one side of the sprockets.
Is your pan gasket gone from under the timing cover? If it just tore off, but is all there (between what's on the cover and the pan), I've just smeared some RTV on the surface and put it back. Unless you pull the pan completely you'll have a joint of some kind there, even if you make up a new piece.
Is your pan gasket gone from under the timing cover? If it just tore off, but is all there (between what's on the cover and the pan), I've just smeared some RTV on the surface and put it back. Unless you pull the pan completely you'll have a joint of some kind there, even if you make up a new piece.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NY and VA
A lot of the timing cover sets come with 2 short oil pan gaskets and the rubber (neoprene) seal as well as the front seal. As long as you are in the area, might as well replace the chain and gears especially if the cam gear has nylon teeth. I also like to use anti-sieze on the threads and bolt shaft as it helps keep the steel bolt from "bonding" to the aluminum housing.
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Elder User
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From: High Park, Toronto
Originally Posted by GLR
A lot of the timing cover sets come with 2 short oil pan gaskets and the rubber (neoprene) seal as well as the front seal. As long as you are in the area, might as well replace the chain and gears especially if the cam gear has nylon teeth. I also like to use anti-sieze on the threads and bolt shaft as it helps keep the steel bolt from "bonding" to the aluminum housing.
Any trick to removing the gear sprokcets and chain set?
GW
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FTE Legend
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From: NY and VA
There is a bolt holding the eccentric for the fuel pump on the camshaft, remove that and carefully pry cam and crank gears forward. On installation, make sure that the timing marks line up ...dot, line, or triangle.. (actually a good idea to do this before removal). No pounding on of gears is needed.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Make sure its on top dead center TDC before removing the timing chain. Pop the distributor cap and see if the rotor points to #1 cylinder and the timing mark is TDC. Then remove the bolt on the upper gear. I usually use a large screw driver and gently pry the gear off. Go back and forth on the top and bottom and you should be able to slide it off. I put a gear drive on mine and love it. You will have to modify the cover to make it work though. Little grinding on the cover. Buy a timing gasket set, they come with the gaskets needed for the oil pan. When scraping the gasket material, be careful not to drop the gasket material in the pan. It will clog the oil pump screen and you'll really have problems. I usually put a big rag in the opening.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
It should be on TDC. The arrows should come together in the middle of both gears, in other words, the mark on the crank should be up and the top gear should be down so both marks point at each other. Once you pull the gears, make sure you turn the engine or you'll be off when you put it back together. You can always align the marks again. Be careful, some chains come with three marks on them for advance, normal, or retard. You want to use the normal setting. I accidently used the advance and my valves hit the piston heads and pulled out my rocker studs.
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Elder User
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From: High Park, Toronto
Originally Posted by imlowr2
...make sure you turn the engine or you'll be off when you put it back together. ... I accidently used the advance and my valves hit the piston heads and pulled out my rocker studs.
Did you mean; make sure you DON'T turn the engine?
GW
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Elder User
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From: High Park, Toronto
Supplementary?
Hi Guys, it's me again with a supplementary question.
I've just come in from the dark of the back yard trying to fiddle the timing chain and sprocket gears back on.
> I had the gears dot to dot b4 removal and now again with the new set of gears.
> I have tried both sprocket gears on their respective crank and cam shafts and they fit [used a little engine oil to lube a little tighter of course with the cam gear]
But getting the top sprocket on it's short shaft while connected to the crank sprocket by chain is proving frustrating.
Any tricks you care to share?
I've just come in from the dark of the back yard trying to fiddle the timing chain and sprocket gears back on.
> I had the gears dot to dot b4 removal and now again with the new set of gears.
> I have tried both sprocket gears on their respective crank and cam shafts and they fit [used a little engine oil to lube a little tighter of course with the cam gear]
But getting the top sprocket on it's short shaft while connected to the crank sprocket by chain is proving frustrating.
Any tricks you care to share?
