she's bleeding bad
#1
11-09-2004, 12:54 AM
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she's bleeding bad
She's bleeding bad and the hospital's a long ways off. 89 F250 7.3, 250k miles, since I've had her for six years she's left little drops of oil most everywhere across the n. am. continent and never burned more than a quart through both tanks. No complaints other than lately she feels just a little soggy on anything over eight hours.
So I'm driving to work down in the boonies here in southern mex, oil pressure drops radically. I put in four quarts, barely registers, and bleeds it all back out again on the return. Oil all over the transmission.
I want to fix her up proper, plug all her holes so she purrs real pretty, cause we've still got lots of ground to cover.
Engine to the transmission, bad leak.
Exhaust manifolds, some oil noticed around the outlet.
Oil filter, small drip ever since I've had it from a hairline fracture where the rubber gasket contacts.
Front pulley off the crankshaft, leaking oil.
Remove the oil cap after running and some smoke rising.
These engines aren't around in Mexico, but my sister happens to be heading down this way in a couple of weeks. I've got a chilton's guide and a few amigos who know how to turn wrenches. Is there an overhaul kit for this motor? I'd sure appreciate hearing what I need to get her back on the long road.
So I'm driving to work down in the boonies here in southern mex, oil pressure drops radically. I put in four quarts, barely registers, and bleeds it all back out again on the return. Oil all over the transmission.
I want to fix her up proper, plug all her holes so she purrs real pretty, cause we've still got lots of ground to cover.
Engine to the transmission, bad leak.
Exhaust manifolds, some oil noticed around the outlet.
Oil filter, small drip ever since I've had it from a hairline fracture where the rubber gasket contacts.
Front pulley off the crankshaft, leaking oil.
Remove the oil cap after running and some smoke rising.
These engines aren't around in Mexico, but my sister happens to be heading down this way in a couple of weeks. I've got a chilton's guide and a few amigos who know how to turn wrenches. Is there an overhaul kit for this motor? I'd sure appreciate hearing what I need to get her back on the long road.
#2
11-09-2004, 09:17 PM
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sounds like a bad deal jose.
No cheap way out of this one, If there is cracks in the block around the oil filter then you will be better off with a new crate motor for 5 or 6 grand. Sounds like you got some real bad seals around the crankshaft, no bien. Maybe buy a cheap beater and ditch the old Ford for less than a new engine.
Como te llamas? Que pasa en Mexico? Me llamo Jose Cuervo. Me pene es grande y gordo. If you are really mexican then you can tell me the answer to the questions.
Llevo camisa y botas. Que tiempo hace? De donde eres tu? Donde es ILLINOIS, Estados Unidos. Maldicion, hace mucho frio en IL.
No cheap way out of this one, If there is cracks in the block around the oil filter then you will be better off with a new crate motor for 5 or 6 grand. Sounds like you got some real bad seals around the crankshaft, no bien. Maybe buy a cheap beater and ditch the old Ford for less than a new engine.
Como te llamas? Que pasa en Mexico? Me llamo Jose Cuervo. Me pene es grande y gordo. If you are really mexican then you can tell me the answer to the questions.
Llevo camisa y botas. Que tiempo hace? De donde eres tu? Donde es ILLINOIS, Estados Unidos. Maldicion, hace mucho frio en IL.
#3
11-09-2004, 09:39 PM
From what I can gather it looks like you need front and rear main seals more than anything else.
The crack by the oil filter is in the back oil cooler mount, so if it is bad it can be changed.
Several of your repairs would be easier to address with the motor out of the truck.
The "some smoke" out the filler spout is normal after running, if you take the cap off with the engine running how bad is it blowing out then?
When you say oil by the exhaust manifold outlet, is it coming out of the exhaust or did it blow on it from the rear main seal leak?
Is the inside of the tailpipe oily?
The crack by the oil filter is in the back oil cooler mount, so if it is bad it can be changed.
Several of your repairs would be easier to address with the motor out of the truck.
The "some smoke" out the filler spout is normal after running, if you take the cap off with the engine running how bad is it blowing out then?
When you say oil by the exhaust manifold outlet, is it coming out of the exhaust or did it blow on it from the rear main seal leak?
Is the inside of the tailpipe oily?
#4
11-09-2004, 09:53 PM
the oil filter housing is aluminum and bolts to the side of the block along with the oil cooler. as for the rear main seal, the tranny and flywheel has to come out, then theres a housing that bolts to the back of the block that has a gasket and is held on by 6 bolts or so. the new rear main seal slaps in there and you need a new gasket for the housing to put it back together. for the front main seal, the harmonic balancer has to come off and maybe the iol pan, i can't remember. but the oil pan has no gasket on it. just need some black rtv or something good. not blue rtv, that stuff sucks. the valve cover gaskets are easy. when i replaced my rear main seal. it never quit leaking, maybe i did it wrong or maybe my motors so worn out, it just leaks around it. it shouldn't be leaking tho. so no guarantees that it will fix it completely. it should slow it down a lot! mine leaks down to where it just barely shows on the dipstick(about 1/2 inch) then stops leaking. i think that means about 3-4 quarts low. but it runs fine at this level for me anyways. if your oil pressure is dropping, then it needs to be fixed. my truck has 300,000 miles on it and its still running good. i just let mine leak and put more in it, but mines not as bad as yours i don't think. hope i help ya out some. a total gasket kit for the motor is like some un-godly 300 bucks or something like that.
#5
11-10-2004, 12:36 AM
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Dave - The leak from the filter has been the same since I've bought the vehicle six years ago, no better no worse, just a small drip. I imagine I'll be lifting the motor out of there in about two weeks and pulling things apart. I'd like to address that issue. Will I need the entire oil cooler assembly or just the mount?
There's not much smoke bowing out when the motor is running. However, when I got the machine there was none. I remember the guy telling me that was a good thing and that blowback, as he referred to it, was not a good thing.
The inside of the tailpipe is not oily. Looking closer, you're right, the oil on the exhaust manifold outlet on the driver's side has blown on there from the rear main seal leak. The passenger side is dry.
The front and rear seals are the only wet regions where the leak seems to be bleeding in some quantity. Some oil is leaking from the valve covers down the block and possibly where the exhaust manifold mounts on to the engine as well as where the dipstick enters the engine block.
The seam for the oil pan also seems worn as there are a few spots around it.
The filler spout, some leaking all around where it mounts to the block and a bolt at the top with two wires coming out of it.
And while I'm at it, my power steering has always leaked, sometimes much worse than others. I've been holding back the tide for years occasionally using stop leak fluid.
89ford73 - thanks for the feedback, I'd like to run her well over 300k before she drops.
Dieseldan73 - Aqui pasa el respeto, el respeto es la paz, y si no pasa asi te pica esta vibora sin remedio en la botica. I'm not mexican, we just get along real well.
There's not much smoke bowing out when the motor is running. However, when I got the machine there was none. I remember the guy telling me that was a good thing and that blowback, as he referred to it, was not a good thing.
The inside of the tailpipe is not oily. Looking closer, you're right, the oil on the exhaust manifold outlet on the driver's side has blown on there from the rear main seal leak. The passenger side is dry.
The front and rear seals are the only wet regions where the leak seems to be bleeding in some quantity. Some oil is leaking from the valve covers down the block and possibly where the exhaust manifold mounts on to the engine as well as where the dipstick enters the engine block.
The seam for the oil pan also seems worn as there are a few spots around it.
The filler spout, some leaking all around where it mounts to the block and a bolt at the top with two wires coming out of it.
And while I'm at it, my power steering has always leaked, sometimes much worse than others. I've been holding back the tide for years occasionally using stop leak fluid.
89ford73 - thanks for the feedback, I'd like to run her well over 300k before she drops.
Dieseldan73 - Aqui pasa el respeto, el respeto es la paz, y si no pasa asi te pica esta vibora sin remedio en la botica. I'm not mexican, we just get along real well.
#6
11-10-2004, 11:21 PM
The oil cooler mount you should be able to buy seperate from the entire cooler. But you will need the oil cooler O ring kit to be able to put iit back together. Ford or an International dealer should be able to get it for you.
They say you can get the oil pan off and on in the truck, but since you have to get the block and pan clean and dry with no oil present, and you have to make the gasket out of RTV silicone, my dollars say it needs to be raised way up or out of the truck completely to do a good job.
The bolt with two wires coming out of it is the tach sending unit.
My power steering pump does the same thing, leaks a bunch , then quites all by it's self for several months.
I have seen several oil pans that rusted through, but most of them have been northern trucks that were in the road salt a lot.
Use caution removing the IP pump drive gear cover, if the IP moves, or the engine gets turned over while it is off, the injection timing will be off. Since there are no diesel 7.3 there, I know you will not be able to get it timed right again since there are no timing tools to be found.
They say you can get the oil pan off and on in the truck, but since you have to get the block and pan clean and dry with no oil present, and you have to make the gasket out of RTV silicone, my dollars say it needs to be raised way up or out of the truck completely to do a good job.
The bolt with two wires coming out of it is the tach sending unit.
My power steering pump does the same thing, leaks a bunch , then quites all by it's self for several months.
I have seen several oil pans that rusted through, but most of them have been northern trucks that were in the road salt a lot.
Use caution removing the IP pump drive gear cover, if the IP moves, or the engine gets turned over while it is off, the injection timing will be off. Since there are no diesel 7.3 there, I know you will not be able to get it timed right again since there are no timing tools to be found.
#7
11-11-2004, 09:02 AM
CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE LINE ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR BEHIND THE INTAKE.mine sprung a leak in the line,I couldn't realy tell if that was it leaking or not but there was oil everywhere suddenly,all over the back of the motor and across the tranny like it was the rear seal,my mechanic said the rear seal is a one peice and rarly goes bad,so I changed the whole line to my gauge,turned out it was cracked in the middle and you couldn't even see the crack in it.