Rough Idle and Poor Acceration
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Rough Idle and Poor Acceration
After a year of trouble free riding, my 1999 Expedition XLT with 60K suddenly had idle and acceleration issues. My first step in trouble shooting process was to review the FTE site. I quickly realized that my potential problems were many. I decided to replace the PCV valve first, then I conducted a visual and “hands on” inspection of all the vacuum hoses. One of the elbow hoses coming from the PCV valve felt really soft and sure enough with the engine running the hose “collapsed” at the elbow (blocking the airflow). I replaced the hose and the problem was fixed.
Hope this helps.
Tomsc32
Hope this helps.
Tomsc32
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 139
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Interesting...
Originally Posted by tomsc32
After a year of trouble free riding, my 1999 Expedition XLT with 60K suddenly had idle and acceleration issues. My first step in trouble shooting process was to review the FTE site. I quickly realized that my potential problems were many. I decided to replace the PCV valve first, then I conducted a visual and “hands on” inspection of all the vacuum hoses. One of the elbow hoses coming from the PCV valve felt really soft and sure enough with the engine running the hose “collapsed” at the elbow (blocking the airflow). I replaced the hose and the problem was fixed.
Hope this helps.
Tomsc32
Hope this helps.
Tomsc32
cobrah
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Hershey, PA
I am having a rough idle problem with my 2K expedition, with the 5.4 engine and 60K miles. This promarily driven only to work and back on country roads.
Inconsistently, on start up it idles rough and dies. It starts back up without a problem. If I can two-pedal to keep running, I does fine on secondary and the open road once it is moving. Once warm, this does not seem to occur.
I did flush the intake system twice. Once to remove any gunk and a second time, a week later as it started again. I beleive this was due to residual debris that broke loose with the first flushing. The flushings seemed to correct ther problem, but now about three months later this problem has reappeared.
Does anyone have an idea on this issue?
Thank much !!!!
Inconsistently, on start up it idles rough and dies. It starts back up without a problem. If I can two-pedal to keep running, I does fine on secondary and the open road once it is moving. Once warm, this does not seem to occur.
I did flush the intake system twice. Once to remove any gunk and a second time, a week later as it started again. I beleive this was due to residual debris that broke loose with the first flushing. The flushings seemed to correct ther problem, but now about three months later this problem has reappeared.
Does anyone have an idea on this issue?
Thank much !!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,264
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From: North Carolina
2kexpy.... it sounds to me like you have a classic IAC failure. Flushing the intake has nothing to do with it. IAC is simple enough to change and should only be about $45 to replace. It is on the intake and bolted with 2 8mm bolts. You can try to clean it but it will eventually act up again. IMHO it would be better off to just replace it!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Hershey, PA
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Hershey, PA
Never mind I know now, the idlr air control valve. I had to just think a minute.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Hershey, PA
IAC is simple enough to change and should only be about $45 to replace. It is on the intake and bolted with 2 8mm bolts. You can try to clean it but it will eventually act up again. IMHO it would be better off to just replace it!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Hershey, PA
RE: IAC replacement
Originally Posted by the4by4freek
2kexpy.... it sounds to me like you have a classic IAC failure. Flushing the intake has nothing to do with it. IAC is simple enough to change and should only be about $45 to replace. It is on the intake and bolted with 2 8mm bolts. You can try to clean it but it will eventually act up again. IMHO it would be better off to just replace it!
I also was able to find the IAC at only $35
Thanks again
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,264
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From: North Carolina
Glad I could help! The IAC will not show up on an OBDII scan. The truck will just not run right when cold. Just another Ford quirk to learn from! This site will teach you alot about your truck.