I have a 2wd 1996 Ranger, 5spd manual.

Last Aug-Oct 2003 I noticed the clutch engage point being really high, truck was bucking alot, would stall easily, and some grinding when I put it in reverse.

My shop told me that I needed a new clutch.

So, on Oct 15, 2003 I had the following replaced:
New clutch assembly
Slave Cylinder
Clutch Tube

After the work was done the clutch worked fine and the clutch engage point was normal. Hardly had the pedal from the floor before it engaged.

Over the past 2 months I noticed that the clutch engage point is once again really high, truck is doing SOME bucking again and I have stalled it a few times (rarely happens). This is the same thing that happend a few months ago when i had it all replaced.

I have only put 7000km on this truck since then. I checked the fluid level and it seems fine. I don't think I am hard on the clutch - I shift at approx 2800 - 3000 RPMs. I don't ride the clutch, downshift when stopping (I use brakes only), use the clutch to keep the truck on a hill, etc.

So, is there another check I can do to see if this clutch is starting to go?

Could it be possible that I AM hard on the clutch when just shifting, even so...7000km!!??

Could it be another part starting to go that's causing this problem?

Any hints or suggestions are welcome!

Digger19

 

maybe all they did was shaft you for the price of installing a new one when all they did was adjust it? I know the old clutches you could adjust..not sure how the hydraulic ones work. I'm sure someone will answer.

 

No adjustment on the clutches.

 

Do you know what brand clutch they used?

I know that cheap ones may not last long at all, like brakes... You get good ones, they last, you buy Albany's and you'll have to replace them every year or so.

 

It is a hydraulic clutch so no adjustment is possible.

I don't know what brand they used. I have dealt with this shop many times in the past and nothing they have ever done has lead me to beleive they would use low quality parts. I mean after a year or so on a clutch, people would be coming back. I know I will be.

I am just wondering about what excuse they may give me, such as "Oh well, you are obviously hard on the clutch"

No I don't beleive i am. I don't need anymore money dished out for this truck that i already do. Still after 7000km. Of course, maybe I am just imagining this.....

I'll call and see if I can find out what brand they used.

Digger

 

You didn't mention a new clutch master cylinder. Was it replaced with the other stuff? If not, my guess would be the master. I'm not sure what a "clutch tube" is. What is it??

 

The clutch tube is prolly the tube that runs from the MC to the slave.


Also did they mention if they resurfaced the flywheel?

 

Yes, the clutch tube goes form the master to the slave.

I do believe they replaced the master cylinder also, but I am not positive. That will be another question I will ask, along with the brand name of the clutch. I remember the mechanic saying that when you remove the clutch tube, chances are it will have to be replaced, as they are hard to remove. He said he will try and not to damage it, to save me the $135, but chances are it will need replacement. Based on this I assume that the master cylinder was replaced also....but I will ask.

I am pretty sure they replaced the flywheel. I remember the mechanic drawing me a sketch, and saying that the prongs/fingers sticking out from this particular part were bent/worn. I assume that this is the flywheel? I can't remember the words he used but I have the impression that these prongs/fingers being worn or bent as much as they were means that the clutch was in dire need of replacement.

The only thing shown on my bill are:
New clutch assembly
Slave Cylinder
Clutch tube

I assume "New Clutch Assembly" to be the master and flywheel....?

Digger

 

The part with the "fingers" is the pressure plate, not the flywheel. The new clutch assembly is the pressure plate, disc, and hopefully throwout bearing. The flywheel is what the disc presses against when the clutch is engaged. Unless it is pretty bad, it usually is not necessary to resurface the face. The clutch tube still has me baffled. It sounds like the hydraulic line running from the MC to the slave. If so, I would not think it would need replacing unless it was damaged. I still think it is the master cylinder, unless you have a bad slave, which is possible. Check to see if they did replace the throwout bearing too. Keep us posted.

 

"Throwout bearing" had twigged something in my memory, so I went back and looked through my Rangers maintenance receipts and I found 2 estimates for the work, the second estimate is were I had the work done:

Estimate 1:
clutch assembly (disc and plate) $266
slave cylinder $139
labour $360

Estimate 2 (this one's a little harder to read)
Disc $111
Pressure plate $155
Slave Cylinder $139 in brackets he has written Throwout bearing
Possible line $130
Labour $224

So it looks like the master cyclinder and flywheel was not replaced. I am not sure about the throwout bearing.

I admit that I do not know what these parts look like, does anyone have a website with a good diagram or perhaps post one please?

But this DOES give me some places to start and hopefully talk half intelligently to the mechanic.

Digger

 

You don't replace the flywheel. It is a good idea to have it surfaced with a flywheel grinder. The throw out bearing is combined with the slave cylinder. Older trucks had a lever that pushed on the throw out bearing to release the clutch. Go to a parts store and get a Chilton or Haynes manual for your truck. They aren't the greatest but will have some pictures.

 

You definitely have a hydraulic problem! Air in the system!! Unless they installed the parts wrong but I don't see that happening. You DON'T want your truck moving as soon as the pedal leaves the floor! It should come up at least a few inches before the clutch engages. ON ANY VEHICLE! 90% of poeple trying to bleed the Ranger cluthes cannot bleed it properly.(at least according to the people that I've seen, including shops). And you should'nt have to buy a new line that goes from MC to the SC. I,ve removed mine with no prob. EVER! Look through the hole in the bellhousing that has the rubber cover on it while someone depresses the pedal. THE SLAVE SHOULD BE MOVING TOWARDS THE FLYWHEEL AT LEAST AN INCH!!!

 

As to not knowing which parts were replaced/resurfaced, check your receipt...if there is something off of it they told you they did....make them eat it....clutch line I have never heard of it going bad unless your in a rusty area. Even so, is there a rubber line between the slave cy. and metal line....like front wheels ??? I got a 91 had it done, did what was needed...clutch pack,resurface f/wheel as I recall...it was on vacation to boot.
You said something bout using clutch to hold it on hills....that is very hard on it indeed. Use E brake until ya take off....while using brake pedal too...just in case...

Also, were the parts new or remanufactured ??? when in doubt get new....also, did they show you old parts that were pulled out of your truck ??? pressure plate would be good indicator of whether heat was extreme or not...mine had 190K before it went belly up...new one has 55K with no problems.


cs65

 

normally, if there is air in the system, your clutch would have a harder time disengaging due to lack of pressure in the system. I may be wrong about this, but I'm pretty sure that you don't have air in it... When you use your clutch normally, did you smell sweaty gym socks during the course of the 7000k? thats usually the raybestos wearing/burning. This should only be smelled when first breaking in the clutch, or during a time of extreme feathering.


Here's a test: from a dead stop, put the truck in 4th, and engange as normal. if it doesn't move, and just stalls, your clutch is still grabbing good. otherwise, you got no grip left, and usually its an indication of replacement.

Does anyone agree with this test?

lala

 

Yes, you are correct about the test. That is a standard test to determine wether or not the clutch components themselves are in need of replacement.
However, when a clutch pedal is depressed and it is hard to get the tranny into gear, or the vehicle moves the second the pedal is released from the floor, that indicates a hydraulic problem of some sort.
I believe he's indicated that the slaves been replaced, and just from my experience with this cluych system, bleeding the system seems to be a main problem for everyone. Including automotive shops because I had to learn to bleed my own after a couple shops said that was'nt the problem on mine but it turned out to be cause after I bled it myself the problems been gone forever.
Just what happened in my case!