Bseries ping blues, my opinions
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Junior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 60
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Bseries ping blues, my opinions
On the issue of cooler air/ thermostat,
I do know this- My 2001 3.0l runs best in below 70 deg. temps, best in 40-50 deg. It runs well after normal warmup to 10 mins on hot days. After that on days above 75 deg. it pings, less with highe octanne gas. It also now at 63,000 will jerk and sputter during acceleration especially after hard cornering.
So, if intake air is warm, then when air is compressed and pressurized it gets hotter, and with my motors own data, it makes sense that you would want to keep the intake air cooler by ANY means.
This is why we have intercoolers on turbos and superchargers, apply cool air induction, and when I raced we used ice to cool air/intake before a run.
I don't know but what works,hands on guy with real world knowledge, I must live with that. Thanks for all the great info, I joiined for that reason.
Now, I want more power in my 2001, so I go with anew free flow muffler, then open air intake, and cooler thermo for ping, at what point MUST I start upgrades on EPU to keep up with performancee gains?
Thanks for the support I know I will get!
I do know this- My 2001 3.0l runs best in below 70 deg. temps, best in 40-50 deg. It runs well after normal warmup to 10 mins on hot days. After that on days above 75 deg. it pings, less with highe octanne gas. It also now at 63,000 will jerk and sputter during acceleration especially after hard cornering.
So, if intake air is warm, then when air is compressed and pressurized it gets hotter, and with my motors own data, it makes sense that you would want to keep the intake air cooler by ANY means.
This is why we have intercoolers on turbos and superchargers, apply cool air induction, and when I raced we used ice to cool air/intake before a run.
I don't know but what works,hands on guy with real world knowledge, I must live with that. Thanks for all the great info, I joiined for that reason.
Now, I want more power in my 2001, so I go with anew free flow muffler, then open air intake, and cooler thermo for ping, at what point MUST I start upgrades on EPU to keep up with performancee gains?
Thanks for the support I know I will get!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
Welcome to FTE!!!
I would wait until you finish your mods before adding a chip, check for more on this in our chip forum.
The ping could be due to a dirty MAF, bad DPFE sensor, check out the links in the tech info thread.
I would wait until you finish your mods before adding a chip, check for more on this in our chip forum.
The ping could be due to a dirty MAF, bad DPFE sensor, check out the links in the tech info thread.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2004
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Is it my mind going , or does this motor have aan extremely high maintenance level...Like my EX-wife!
I have other things, like a recent tapping sound, like the old push rod/ valve used to do after hydralic lifter bleedoffs. Only it's either from the alt, idle pulley, or crank.
The oil gauge takes getting warm to work.
The Airbag light comes on in cold weather, and at idle it has always sounded like a diesel, but it's got a body like a brick house! Maybe I should divorce her and give her a house and half my money,lol!!!
I have other things, like a recent tapping sound, like the old push rod/ valve used to do after hydralic lifter bleedoffs. Only it's either from the alt, idle pulley, or crank.
The oil gauge takes getting warm to work.
The Airbag light comes on in cold weather, and at idle it has always sounded like a diesel, but it's got a body like a brick house! Maybe I should divorce her and give her a house and half my money,lol!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
The 3.0 is a pretty solid engine which does have hydralic lifters but there not a common problem. The oil gauge is most likely the sendor, common problem and cheap to fix, it on the back of the block, passengers side. The only thing that bothers me is these two things together, I would put a real gauge on it to make sure you have proper oil pressure. i hope you don't use Fram filters.
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Junior User
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Nope, no fram filters for me. I almost positive the tap is in the v-belt drive line. It's time for a new belt anyway, I'll check the pulley bearings, it really sounds like the altenator, and I have 800 watts of stereo so the alt gets worked pretty hard.
Does anyone else notice the a/c comp really slams in hard? Sounds like someone hits the block with a sledgehammer.
Would it be ok to just ad a good quality muffler for power and use the same tubeing? it seems to be 21/4 , and shouldn,t be restrictive. I want to ad cheep power.
Does anyone else notice the a/c comp really slams in hard? Sounds like someone hits the block with a sledgehammer.
Would it be ok to just ad a good quality muffler for power and use the same tubeing? it seems to be 21/4 , and shouldn,t be restrictive. I want to ad cheep power.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 126
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I agree Ken. My 2.5L 00 truck pinged very, very badly at only 30K. Especially when it was hot out. I believe the first two owners were turned away at the dealer when they mentioned the truck pinged or maybe they just never took it to the dealer. I believe my truck probably had a defective MAF on it from the start. Truck runs great now. A Fuel filter helped my truck too. The old one had dirt in it. Supposedly, I can go to any dealer and they will be able to tell me what service has been done on the truck. I'll have to do this sometime. Does the OBD II system on the truck store this information now?
P.S.
I got no codes when the truck pinged.
Thanks
P.S.
I got no codes when the truck pinged.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
If you pull the belt off and run is for a few seconds you should be able to rule out the belt driveline, just don't run it long, water pump won't be running.
They are know for loud AC engagement, but not that loud.
They are know for loud AC engagement, but not that loud.
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