Ready for Color Coat, a Few Questions
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 1
From: Tucson
Ready for Color Coat, a Few Questions
My 67 is just about ready for the color coat and I have a few question. I haven't heard from my expert friend so I'm posting to the group in hopes of some input. Anyhow, here's what the truck looks like today:
https://home.comcast.net/~jor/new_page_5.htm
And here are my question:
1. I'm using Centari Acrylic Enamel. What is the best air pressure setting?
2. What's the best way to paint the hood and top (front to back, side to side)?
3. What's the best way to paint narrow places like the windshield pillar (turn the gun on its side)?
4. How far should I hold the gun from the surface?
Thanks.
jor
https://home.comcast.net/~jor/new_page_5.htm
And here are my question:
1. I'm using Centari Acrylic Enamel. What is the best air pressure setting?
2. What's the best way to paint the hood and top (front to back, side to side)?
3. What's the best way to paint narrow places like the windshield pillar (turn the gun on its side)?
4. How far should I hold the gun from the surface?
Thanks.
jor
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Claresholm, Alberta
jor
Your air pressure setting depends alot on the color you're gonna spray. A good starting point for Centari is 30 psi then adjust as needed. The best way to paint a truck is to start at the tailgate and work forward leaving the hood and fenders for last. This will help eliminate any dry spray. Start in the middle and spray front to back, on the hood work from the middle and then down the fenders. The windshield pillar is the best place to get a run so try and spray it the same as the door unless the door's off then turn your air pressure down a little and spray it up and down. A good guide for spray distance is to spread your hand out and the distance from your thumb tip to your "pinky" tip is a good distance. Alot of this stuff depends on the gun and your experience as well. Take your time and do a good job. Remember if it starts to mess up it's easier to stop and let it dry and resand than to screw up the whole paint job.
Chris
Alberta
Your air pressure setting depends alot on the color you're gonna spray. A good starting point for Centari is 30 psi then adjust as needed. The best way to paint a truck is to start at the tailgate and work forward leaving the hood and fenders for last. This will help eliminate any dry spray. Start in the middle and spray front to back, on the hood work from the middle and then down the fenders. The windshield pillar is the best place to get a run so try and spray it the same as the door unless the door's off then turn your air pressure down a little and spray it up and down. A good guide for spray distance is to spread your hand out and the distance from your thumb tip to your "pinky" tip is a good distance. Alot of this stuff depends on the gun and your experience as well. Take your time and do a good job. Remember if it starts to mess up it's easier to stop and let it dry and resand than to screw up the whole paint job.
Chris
Alberta
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
The correct pressure setting for Centari will depend on your gun. The only recommended pressure setting listed by Dupont is 50-65 psi "at the gun" for a conventional siphon feed.
If you have a HVLP, things really get mixed up. I spray Centari at 10 psi "at the nozzle". That translates into 50-55 psi "at the gun" for a Sharpe Platinum. Another gun I have requires 43 psi "at the gun" to develop 10 psi "at the nozzle". Since there is no way for us common folk to get the "at the nozzle" psi reading, we have to depend on the gun maker to provide the "at the gun" setting whcih translates into the correct "at the nozzle" psi.
BTW, looks like you did a good job on the prep work.
The correct pressure setting for Centari will depend on your gun. The only recommended pressure setting listed by Dupont is 50-65 psi "at the gun" for a conventional siphon feed.
If you have a HVLP, things really get mixed up. I spray Centari at 10 psi "at the nozzle". That translates into 50-55 psi "at the gun" for a Sharpe Platinum. Another gun I have requires 43 psi "at the gun" to develop 10 psi "at the nozzle". Since there is no way for us common folk to get the "at the nozzle" psi reading, we have to depend on the gun maker to provide the "at the gun" setting whcih translates into the correct "at the nozzle" psi.
BTW, looks like you did a good job on the prep work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 960
Likes: 5
From: Spring Texas
Aekisu, Hey Bud now I need help. What do you know about the GRIP brand of HVLP guns. I bought a set, one with a 1.4mm nozzle and the other a 1.6. They come with the liter cups instead of the 600 mil and they are aluminum versus plastic. Are they any good for doing a repaint. Ed
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: northern Ky
Different guys have different methods for painting - I think there are several "right" ways.
I always do the top first. I have to stand on something to reach it, and I like to get the most physically strenous part out of the way first. On a pickup, I do the top (half and half from each side) then get on the floor and get just above the windshield. Then the cowl area, grill area, then work down one side to the back, then go back to the front and work down the other side, finishing up at the back. I almost always hang up the hood, (off to the side somewhere) and do it either first or last.
I always do the top first. I have to stand on something to reach it, and I like to get the most physically strenous part out of the way first. On a pickup, I do the top (half and half from each side) then get on the floor and get just above the windshield. Then the cowl area, grill area, then work down one side to the back, then go back to the front and work down the other side, finishing up at the back. I almost always hang up the hood, (off to the side somewhere) and do it either first or last.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally Posted by Fordication
Aekisu, Hey Bud now I need help. What do you know about the GRIP brand of HVLP guns. I bought a set, one with a 1.4mm nozzle and the other a 1.6. They come with the liter cups instead of the 600 mil and they are aluminum versus plastic. Are they any good for doing a repaint. Ed
Did they come with any docs, telling you the correct pressure setting?
For a primer gun, I use a no-name HVLP sold by Harbor Freight. I don't have one complaint about it. It lays down a coat of paint almost anyone would be proud of. The only real problem I can see is the lack of support, availibility of parts and lack of documentation. It could best be called a throwaway gun. When I first used it, I had not a clue about the correct pressure setting. Luckly for me, they had stamped a "43 psi max" near the air inlet. I assumed that would produce the required 10 psi "at the nozzle". Dennis
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally Posted by marc9000
Different guys have different methods for painting - I think there are several "right" ways.
I always do the top first. I have to stand on something to reach it, and I like to get the most physically strenous part out of the way first. On a pickup, I do the top (half and half from each side) then get on the floor and get just above the windshield. Then the cowl area, grill area, then work down one side to the back, then go back to the front and work down the other side, finishing up at the back. I almost always hang up the hood, (off to the side somewhere) and do it either first or last.
I always do the top first. I have to stand on something to reach it, and I like to get the most physically strenous part out of the way first. On a pickup, I do the top (half and half from each side) then get on the floor and get just above the windshield. Then the cowl area, grill area, then work down one side to the back, then go back to the front and work down the other side, finishing up at the back. I almost always hang up the hood, (off to the side somewhere) and do it either first or last.
Do a dry test run. Connect your air hoses and "paint" your rig with air. See how your setup and work order flows. If you don't like it, change things around and try again.
Trending Topics
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 960
Likes: 5
From: Spring Texas
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: green bay, WI
I usually do the roof, and pillars, quarter panel, trunk, other quarter, back to the first side and do the doors on each side, and finish with the front end. I spray length wise on the panels, but sometimes will do a cross coat the other direction (widthwise) on the top panels. I spray mostly base/clear now though. Everyone has their own pattern around the car, but you have to keep from having large dry areas. Thats one reason I start with the roof, beside like marc said getting the hard area first, if the paint is a little dry by the time you get back to the pillars, it is a small area.
