We are getting an In-Ground Swimming Pool this summer and need to raise our 10'x16' stick built shed about 1-2 feet, so that it will be level with the pool’s concrete. What is the best way to lift the shed? It is currently sitting on a bed of stone. The shed has (5) 4”x4” runners underneath (the shed was built off-site & delivered by truck). I suppose I could use my 3-ton floor jack & lift one side at a time, but what do I install underneath? Stacked 4”x4”’s, cinder blocks, shovel more stone underneath??

 

From a structural standpoint, do not lift the shed one side at a time. You'll have issues with it forever after if you do. I would recommend placing either cinder block under it, or better yet, pouring concrete footings for it to sit on to avoid eventual rot. For lifting, I would recommend at least three friends with three additional floor jacks and lift from each corner at the same time. Just an architects two cents.

 

We had to raise a shed for similar reasons and we used a floor jack and cinderblocks. Jacked one side up place a block under each corner then did the other side. I would sugest only raising 1 block at a time till you reach the desired height. It is easier if you have a few hands helping, there was 2 of us doin ours and went pretty smooth and is still standing.


HTH

 

A picture of this shed is in my gallery.

 

A few of the old style bumper jacks to get you started would work.
Rental places sometimes have hydraulic jacks you can rent -- one pump with 4 lift cylinders.
If it were me I'd get a 12"x12" - length white oak/black locust beam from a saw mill. Cut it into 12" cubes (chainsaw) and use that as the new base. I'd make sure the cubes sat above grade and on a suitable base Use a 2x8 for a perimeter rim joist. You could mill a slot in the cubes to receive the 4x4 (1" deep - use circular saw and clean out waste with chisel).
I've done this a few times and it worked out well. (I do it this way because I have a saw mill -- the old if you're only solution is a hammer all your problems look like nails - I'd put three per 4x4 if there running the short way I'd guess your cost around $100-$150 for materials -- cinder blocks occassionally due fail if not on firm footings the wood won't)
Alternative
The crew putting the pool in will have equipment capable of lifting your shed.
Roll the shed on pipe off to the side put in sono tubes and make a platform for shed to sit on. Have the crew lift the shed into place.
Don't try and lift a shed that size with men lifting unless you have 10+ even then you are short staffed.

Good luck.

 

I'm sure you realize this is a very dangerous venture. Should you have a block or jack slip while someone is under it, or even close, especially when it’s a couple of feet in the air, can be disastrous. The building will not fall straight down, but may slide out a couple of feet.

Once I had it on 8” blocks, I would jack it up only a couple of inches at a time until it reaches your desired height, that way you induce less tilt into building. The fact that your building was built off site, with the 4x4 runners, usually means that the runners are a couple of feet (or more) inboard from the outside edge of the building. This will cause some one to have to be under the building to set up the new foundation. I would also consider double blocking the four corners for stability.

 

There are 5 evenly spaced 4x4 runners under this shed. When I mentioned lifting one side at time, I did mean a small amount at a time. I should only need to go 2' maximum.

Thank you for your responses.

 

Can you remove the floor so you have access to the ground and understructure of the shed? Maybe even cut out parts of the floor so you can get your supports set evenly. If you could, I like the idea of using 4 bottle jacks and slowly lift the shed as evenly as possible. 2' is a long way to lift it and I would think you'd have to build a wood framework underneath to support the floor. Do you have any idea how much the shed weighs? I would probably try to pour a concrete footer wall around the perimeter and backfill the middle with gravel. The only problem with this is it would require moving the shed out of the way in order to build the new foundation.

 

What's the best way to elevate a shed

Dynamite……..with a long fuse, on the night most of the neighborhood is gone.
Careful with too much you will have a problem calculating the landing zone.

 

You can use some sections of 2x6 or 2x8 blocking screwed to multiple studs inside as a jacking point if you can't get under the sill plate.

It will be very dangerouse to lift and if a jack slips it can fly across the area wih enuf force to kill. Blocking can do the same thing. Then of course the building can fly sideways and down...

There are house moving companies that have the proper equipment and knowledge available. It may be worth the cost for safety's sake, besides the possibility of a ruined structure.

 

You would be wise to heed the advice of toml98. Lift the whole thing at once. You might consider renting/borrowing a couple of pallet jacks.

 

Dude, here's what you do, You get a long 4x4x12 and a couple blocks, jack shed up (empty) just enough to get the 4x4 under the middle of one side. With the 4x4 in the air and firmly under the shed about 6"-1' place a block under the 4x4 as close as you can get it towards the shed but not to far. Now walk to the back of the 4x4 and push down on the very end of it (using leverage old school stuff). Now the shed will come right up with little effort and you can have some one set the block/wood and adjust by pushing down on the 4x4 or letting up its simple, do the same on the other side and you will be done quick, but be careful. push or let off to raise/lower it up to desired level. Also you may need to adjust the block under the 4x4 to find the sweet spot. Let us know how you made out. Nothing is easy but when you use leverage nothing is out of the relm... >\I_I <shed/ 4x4>

 

You could try renting a small crane and just pick it straight up. Although it is a more expensive route, it is probility easier and safer than most other methods.

Chris

 

How'd they get it there to begin with? I'd move it that way.

 

Looked at my old reciepts by chance -- it was $40 to rent a 4 cylinder house lift 12 inch stroke. Its basiscally a enerpac (sp?) manual hydraulic pump. Gives you four lift points simultaneously actuation -- load it eqaully which should not be hard with that shed. Lift 6 inches at a time and place sound structural spacers. I'd still diagonally brace it from the inside -- corner to corner.
Its not that bad a job. Call the builder of the shed and get his new footing recommendations.
If you're having a pool poured why not move the shed off to the side have the pool installers pour footings and lift it on -- so all is well after install?