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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 07:45 AM
  #1  
sharpshooter's Avatar
sharpshooter
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From: Chalmette, LA
Fuel Filter

This is probably a stupid question but here it goes: My '79 F-150 302 had a fuel pump that was going out. The engine was starved and I noticed my fuel fliter was empty. Well once I installed my new fuel pump it cured my engine starvation and the filter was full when running. Well I noticed yesterday that my fuel filter is 1/2 full at best when running which has me a little curious. A local truck driver told me that my filter should be full all the time. It's probably nothing but it had me wondering since just few weeks ago it was full to capacity and now 1/2 full. It is not leaking either.

Secondly I have noticed that in order to get adequate acceleration I have to slowy press the gas and if I mash it down nothing happens. I have replaced all my plugs, wires, rotor, cap, carburetor, fuel pump and nothing seems to work. My timing is set at 8 degrees BTDC and someone suggested giving it more time like 10 or 12 degrees BTDC. Is that accurate? Is there anything else I should try? I kind of think it may be the problem because I have noticed that even though it is set at factory standards it still does not start up with a simple turn of the key when warm. I still have to press the gas sometimes. It's running great other than that but it's kind of frustrating. I am still learning so I could really use some helpful hints here. Thanks for your time and have a nice day.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 11:57 AM
  #2  
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From: Elyria, Ohio
From another great running 302?

Have a 1979 302. 22 inches vacuum at idle. compression 146 psi +/- 5 psi for all cylinders. Runs great at 6 BTDC; but preignites at 8 BTDC and doesn't like acceleration under heavy pedal. Passes emissions; no vacuum leaks; and all emission equip functional. Easy starting after pumping gas.

Pulled engine apart this weekend for rebuild: cylinder walls excellent; 3 exhaust valves minor golden brown deposits=valve seals. But my real problem was the timing chain; over 1 inch deflection and could almost be lifted off timing gear. The cam gear also had two cracks through the nylon to the metal hub. Just sharing; maybe my experience might lead to a diagnosis of your problem. Good Luck.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 12:11 PM
  #3  
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sharpshooter
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What do you mean "doesn't like acceleration under a heavy pedal"? Are you saying that you cannot mash down your accelerator as well? Now my 302 is a 21 psi vaccuum pressure but honestly, and I do not want to sound stupid here, but I do not know how to check compression. I know my dad knows but honestly it's hard for me to get to his house and find the time to do such things so how do I go about checking my compression?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 02:48 PM
  #4  
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Sounds more like a bad accelerator pump in the carb.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 05:53 PM
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rainbowATF
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From: Elyria, Ohio
My problem was with acceleration; preignition and hesitation. This went away with retarding the ignition to 6 BTDC or more from the usual 8 BTDC. There was no problem with the acceleration pump in my case and I dismissed that for sharpshooter because he said he had a new carbuerator. He also replaced wires, plugs and fuel pump; I still think its time for a more complete diagnosis on his 25 year old engine.
 

Last edited by rainbowATF; Apr 20, 2004 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 06:52 PM
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Yeah I just bought the Holley Street Avenger 570cfm in December. I guess I'll turn it down to 6 BTDC and try it out. What if that does not work then do you suggest I take a look at the timing chain? Is this a common problem or am I just unlucky? Any thoughts about my half full fuel filter? Thanks for everything thus far.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 07:37 PM
  #7  
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rainbowATF
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From: Elyria, Ohio
My cam gear with out the pressure of the valve train and lifters could be moved back and forth and inch from TDC. I'm sure I was suffering from the chain wrapping up and the slack. In your case, check float levels (fuel in the sightglass); and if retarding ignition and you still have problem; don't just start ripping into things. You can rotate the crank with socket wrench (easier with plugs out) and see how much movement you get at the rotor in the distributor with cap off. Someone else has described this procedure in another thread; search on timing chain. I'm tearing engine apart for rebuild and mods; so my purpose is different; but if you are just changing the timing chain and gear its going to be extensive amount of work. So have manuals and experienced helper close by: someone has been helping you with your ignition an fuel fixes and that Holley upgrade...
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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From: Chalmette, LA
The manual said not to keep the sight plugs in so I replaced them with the screws. As stated on the Street Avenger descriptions it is set to almost all standard settings so very little adjusting is needed. I barely had to adjust my idle and since I was pumping out 21 psi vaccuum I did not touch my floats. I guess I'll do that first and then adjust my timing. Thanks and if anything else comes to mind holler back.
 
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