..and pay attention :| I really need to replace the radiator on the '72 F250 390 ATM 2WD. I found a candidate at Summit Racing. Out to the truck to take some measurements. I know it has the transmission cooler built in, I can see the cooler lines from the top side but one is a hard line and the other a hose? Looking up from the bottom, there are two hoses both going to the front of the radiator. Oh there is an add in 2nd transmission cooler, one hard line was interrupted to daisy chain in the extra cooler, I had forgotten that was there, but the fellow I bought the truck from said he had taken cattle to eastern Oregon, so that makes sense.

While I writing down dimensions, I might as well hit the rusty old bolts with a spot of penetrating oil, as long as I'm dong that I should hit all the rusty old bolts including the exhaust header bolts, the master cylinder break line connections, last time I changed a master cylinder a line was frozen to the fitting and I had to spin the master cylinder, you never know I might get lucky if I hit the fitting enough time over a number of days; I hit hood hinges and the lug nuts too.

While I'm hitting the hood hinges on the left hand side, there is an add in switch and a couple of fuses. I wonder what those go to? Maybe it had to do with the old, now not in use trailer light wiring. Huh I'll have to throw the switch, then pull each fuse in turn and see if anything breaks.

I wonder what kid of end is on the interrupted radiator line that the hose is slid on to, it will be interesting to pull it apart.

The Transmission line view from the top side

Transmission lines from the bottom side. I did say I need to replace the radiator; though I never actually seen it leak there is just a eh hem spot or two that is concerning.

Look close and the add in transmission cooler is siting in front of the radiator.

The mystery fuse holders and switch.

 

Normally the cooler is hooked up to the return line which has very little pressure. So just cutting a line and putting a hose clamp works to connect the line usually works without leaks.

As for what the switch goes to your going to have to trace the wires and see where they end up at.

 

I hate to highlight my ignorance but would you happen to know if that little black box just to the left of the switch is a standard item?

 

That is not a Ford part.

 

@fe390pc I suspect it's a relay that has to do eight with the added trailer breaking or trailer light wiring. The wiring is very old and this puppy isn't doing any trailer duty so I'll pull the trailer light wiring / hook up and clean it up. If it was ever used for trailers new wiring should be installed. There is a multi pin outlet on the bumper next to the hitch for trailer light and there is also what looks like a regular 110V female jack that I suspect was for external 12V power, could be the box is associated with that.

Anyway, thanks for letting me know that box is not standard! I haven't pulled it yet and on the surfaces I can see, i haven't found markings.

 

Going through the wiring on these old trucks is a real head scratcher. To get power to all the systems there are some many jumpers and tees so you only needed like 5 fuses for the truck. I am in the process of riping out my old wiring and installing a painless universal kit. I will about triple the fused circuits and have better protection for the truck. I happen to be upgrading to a 3G alt and an HEI style dizzy.

 

Painless is what I put in mine. I like the fact that they label all the wires to where they go and are for. Under the dash section you really need to pay attention since some are dual labeled, and some loop.

 

@fe390pc Yes sir, before I get to anything that might be concerning as potentially needed there will be photos and labeling. My truck (as purchased) has a 2 red wires that appear to be stuffed in under the fuses, one goes to a vacuum gauge that was added for lol "Fuel Economy", the other I think to the CB that came with the truck. Another forum post shed light on the 3 blade connector in back of the gauge cluster "of which only 1 is normally used" when I get around to it, I think those 2 red wires will get re routed but after I verify the amperage of where that is fed from.
Based on the appearance of the fuse block on the drivers side, changing it out for something better would be desirable and I'd kind of like to add a simple dome light to the wood headliner I put.in. The truck hasn't had any love for a long time and even though I might not keep it much longer (needs have changed) I still want to clean some stuff up.

For the moment I'm looking into a bearing block replacement for my car, the daily driver. I'm 99% sure a wheel bearing is on the way out