Brake rotors
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 10
Brake rotors
I will be changing my front brakes this weekend. I am looking at the regular stores online and only see rotors with the hub. I just want to change the rotors. Are the rotors for the 4X2 truck only integrated with the wheel hubs?
2002 F150 XLT, 5.4L 2 wheel drive
Thanks
2002 F150 XLT, 5.4L 2 wheel drive
Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 383
From: WA
And I think that most of them also come with outer bearing races already installed. So you have to decide if you want to remove the races and install a matched set or trust that mix and match will work because specs are set across the bearing industry. I haven't bought new yet but I've wondered about that. Maybe one of the pros knows.
If I was selling rotors I'd sell them with bearings, complete, as a set. But nobody seems to do that.
p.s. there are still shops out there that will turn rotors. Usually cheaper than new and you don't have to mess with bearings unless they're worn. Many NAPA's still have brake turning machines in the back. I had mine done there and they came out fine.
Last edited by BareBonesXL; Apr 9, 2026 at 10:36 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,519
Likes: 2,654
From: Near Salt Lake City
Smart move
2 schools of thought for you to think about
One: The initial warp, (thickness variation or lateral runout) if machined out, the rotor will last quite a while once you true up the warp
Two: Turning them make them thinner and they will warp again quickly
We / I used to have real good luck turning Taurus rotors, F250's not so much
Your 4x2 would be worth the effort IMO
Let us know how long they last this time around
I replace mine on my 4x2 van every 3 or so years and do not turn them, course I drive like Parnelli Jones
2 schools of thought for you to think about
One: The initial warp, (thickness variation or lateral runout) if machined out, the rotor will last quite a while once you true up the warp
Two: Turning them make them thinner and they will warp again quickly
We / I used to have real good luck turning Taurus rotors, F250's not so much
Your 4x2 would be worth the effort IMO
Let us know how long they last this time around
I replace mine on my 4x2 van every 3 or so years and do not turn them, course I drive like Parnelli Jones
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 383
From: WA
I put a new bearing in an old race on my old Pathfinder after I hit a curb and bent the retainer, causing it to squeal at times. No problems.
Last edited by BareBonesXL; Apr 10, 2026 at 12:51 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,519
Likes: 2,654
From: Near Salt Lake City
Other way around on my 94 van, new races in new rotors, then re use the old bearings
(So far I have just swapped my bearings over to the new rotors which have new races)
I pack them and drive; I have right around 110k and the bearings keep looking good so far
(So far I have just swapped my bearings over to the new rotors which have new races)
I pack them and drive; I have right around 110k and the bearings keep looking good so far
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,548
Likes: 2,034
From: North Texas
I always try to turn rotors, flywheels, whatever...especially if known good. Big issue here is finding the one, maybe two folks at the auto store than can run a brake lathe. Total pain to turn a drum as they cannot measure proper
When I purchased my Screw back in 2020 or so the fronts were down to around 0.775", new spec was about 1.110" or so. Still original from 2001...all was O.E. Ford, amazing. I just did new bearings, Timken I think, with fresh rotors...probably Raybestos.
In any event, follow O.E. procedures for torquing. I have near 30k on my brake job with zero issues post that. Rears are a snap as they are floating, check the axle seals. Mine were weeping around 200k. That killed my ebrake shoes, easy fix and great having them operable again
When I purchased my Screw back in 2020 or so the fronts were down to around 0.775", new spec was about 1.110" or so. Still original from 2001...all was O.E. Ford, amazing. I just did new bearings, Timken I think, with fresh rotors...probably Raybestos.
In any event, follow O.E. procedures for torquing. I have near 30k on my brake job with zero issues post that. Rears are a snap as they are floating, check the axle seals. Mine were weeping around 200k. That killed my ebrake shoes, easy fix and great having them operable again
Last edited by Hit Man X; Apr 11, 2026 at 06:18 PM.
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 10
Smart move
2 schools of thought for you to think about
One: The initial warp, (thickness variation or lateral runout) if machined out, the rotor will last quite a while once you true up the warp
Two: Turning them make them thinner and they will warp again quickly
We / I used to have real good luck turning Taurus rotors, F250's not so much
Your 4x2 would be worth the effort IMO
Let us know how long they last this time around
I replace mine on my 4x2 van every 3 or so years and do not turn them, course I drive like Parnelli Jones
2 schools of thought for you to think about
One: The initial warp, (thickness variation or lateral runout) if machined out, the rotor will last quite a while once you true up the warp
Two: Turning them make them thinner and they will warp again quickly
We / I used to have real good luck turning Taurus rotors, F250's not so much
Your 4x2 would be worth the effort IMO
Let us know how long they last this time around
I replace mine on my 4x2 van every 3 or so years and do not turn them, course I drive like Parnelli Jones
Normal braking now, no more wobbles.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,548
Likes: 2,034
From: North Texas
Depending upon the brand, I can usually have a turn or two from the rotors. O.E. seem to run longer, probably superior material.
Suppose it also depends upon pad material, I recall organic is very soft and ceramic is pretty hard on them.
Suppose it also depends upon pad material, I recall organic is very soft and ceramic is pretty hard on them.
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