So I’ve posted about my 262 having hesitation when going uphill in fourth gear. Many people said it’s because the Daytona replacement 1 barrel does not mesh with the finicky load-o-matic distributor.

I finally decided to contact Daytona. They are an American company that makes the carbs in America and have been doing it for 30 years. You can get high-quality rebuild kits from them as well.

They got back to me quickly and told me that their 1 barrel universal works perfectly with the 262. I had told them I wanted to know if it had a spark control valve. They confirmed that it does.

They even gave me the proper setting for a 262 as far as the accelerator adjuster thingy. Lol I’m still a novice mechanic but learning every day.

Well, I adjusted it and took it over my local hill. It was much worse and it was hesitating in third and fourth. I pulled over and dialed it back down to where it was. I even adjusted it about 4 full turns beyond the original setting.

Got on the hill and it is all good now. I always thought it was the engine and you will know that if you’ve read my previous post on my 262.

Starting to really love my engine again. In two weeks I’m taking the rocker assembly off and having them rebuilt with pelt nuts added. That is if they can find used units out there. Sending to Rocker Arms Unlimited.

The last thing I need to figure out is a sound I’m getting at about 4500 RPM. My novice experience tells me it could be the bearings in the water pump, but the water pump is not leaking. The fan belt is tight. I’ll figure this one out pretty soon.

Just wanted to keep you guys posted and let you know about that car in case you can’t find the original Holly 1 barrel.

 

I posted on another site and someone came through with advice about the finicky distributor that I had never heard. Thought I’d share it here.

 

I don't buy what Chuck Clement says in that screen grab you posted.

Unlike many other Ford distributors, the L‑O‑M has no mechanical advance weights, no centrifugal advance mechanism, and no fallback timing curve. It is 100% dependent on the vacuum canister and the spark‑control valve in the carb. If you remove the vacuum advance, you don’t just reduce performance - you eliminate all timing advance.

Even dual advance distributors - which do have mechanical advance weights - often also use vacuum. Without the vacuum signal from the engine, you lose the adaptiveness that the vacuum advance provides which uses the signals from the engine vacuum to adjust automatically.

Locking one down at 11° with no advance at all means that are higher RPMs you would only have that much advance and the system wouldn't be able to contribute any additional advance as required.

Chuck does not mention plugging the vacuum port on the carb either but if that was not done it would become a huge vacuum leak - causing yet again even worse problems.

 

Thanks for that TA455HO. You are dispelling all the lame mechanics.l

 

welp, I figured out this one………..

The last thing I need to figure out is a sound I’m getting at about 4500 RPM. My novice experience tells me it could be the bearings in the water pump, but the water pump is not leaking. The fan belt is tight. I’ll figure this one out pretty soon……………………..

Took an hour long freeway ride a couple days ago, and when I came back, my aftermarket air cleaner had shifted. I could tell because the reproduction Ford sticker had shifted 180°.

Tightened it down really tight and no more cricket wail. Excelsior!

 

Took the truck out yesterday. Cricket wail sound is still there. Still thinking water pump.

I’m gonna have a friend come over and rev it up to the point where it makes the sound, then I’m gonna investigate.

Don’t worry, I won’t put my hand in the fan lol