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Hi all. I would like to add front discs and an under cab power brake booster with dual MC to my ‘53. I’m thinking about the compete kit that LMC sells to include the “U” bracket to support my 4 speed manual. I’ve searched and found some good info on the forum with some photos on the brake and clutch pedal assembly, but not a real diagram or illustrated parts breakdown. Does anybody have a pic of one? My shop manual doesn’t have one and I’d really like to wrap my head around how it all goes together before I screw something up. Thanks….
I did this but did not do power booster. Each their own, I drive all the time and do not need a booster.
Simple enough, in the end.
Will need the remote reservoir kit. It is behind the access hole in the floor board, you will not be able to add fluid or even open it easily.
i went with a mechanical break light switch on the pedal. You can splice the original style pressure switch onto the line but there is no hole for it on the master cylinder. I built a mount for the plastic reservoir, does not mount flush with the fire wall.
Get the syringe to bench bleed the brakes, save a lot of time
They also have a switch to tell you when there is low pressure. It works by supplying ground to the bulb, so the light always has a hot wire and ground is sent to the light only when pressure is low. Took me a while to figure that out.
Thanks for the pics. I was debating on power actually but I plan to add disc brakes on the front and read that a lot of guys say the booster is needed to squeeze the calipers to see any real improvement.
Glad to help. I run front disk brakes and drums in the back, I am sure the booster would make a difference too. I have not had any issues stopping but it is appealing. I would do the brake swap at the same time. The CCP differs by setup. The have drum drum, drum disk, disk disk. It can be changed later but more work. I also use dot 3, some people go with synthetic, research it for yourself. I also took the time to change out the old rusted brake lines, a whole other post…
Just a side note. When you remove the old master cylinder it really opens up the space to access the bolts for the front gas tank brace. Would be a great time to address any tank issues like POR-15 coating, change the rubber padding, fix the track for the cab seals and redo the tank ground for the sending unit.
Last edited by pltnsgt06; Mar 31, 2026 at 05:46 AM.
Thanks for that picture, it helps visualize it better. I have a ‘68 302 with a top loader 4 speed. Balance of truck is stock for now. I want to upgrade the brakes but the linkage for the pedals (esp clutch) had me scratching my head.
I have an automatic tranny. But I have a disk/disk set up and have a power booster. It is an electric pump because my motor doesn't create enough vacuum to run the booster. But I drive the truck hard, esp. when autocrossing so I like to stop fast.
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