Looking for upgrade 2v or 4v header for sale.
I dont know if they ship to AK and they may not list a header for your truck online so you may have to call them.
I have a brand of car that was stopped being made in 1988 and they dont list anything for it, so you have to call.
Now you did not say what the 78 300 is?
Is the motor a 78 300 or the truck a 78 with a 300 and if so what model is it 100 / 150 / 250 / 350, is it a 4x2 or 4x4 and what transmission does it have.
They are all things needed to know to figure a header for you.
Also have you looked at the 87> EFI 300 exhaust manifolds and Y pipe?
The manifolds are like mini headers and they say flow better than the log exhaust manifold.
I am using the EFI manifolds with the factory log intake manifold and carb. Others have used the EFI manifolds with Offy intake.
So that maybe an option over a tube header.
Dave ----
We offer headers for the Ford 300, and we can ship to Alaska, but we need to know what your combo is like @FuzzFace2 mentioned. We know it's a 78, but don't know what it is beyond that. Let us know the model, 2wd/4wd, auto/manual trans, Air conditioning, etc., and we could further assist you.
We offer headers for the Ford 300, and we can ship to Alaska, but we need to know what your combo is like @FuzzFace2 mentioned. We know it's a 78, but don't know what it is beyond that. Let us know the model, 2wd/4wd, auto/manual trans, Air conditioning, etc., and we could further assist you.
Last edited by AlaskaFordman78; Mar 25, 2026 at 01:50 AM.
I also dont know how much low end the headers would add as most of the time it lets the motor breath in the higher RPM range.
Dave ----
Thing to know is when you tune for low end power the top end power gets hurt and the other way around, help high end power and low end gets hurt.
It's just the way it is.
Dave -----
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We checked into headers for you, and unfortunately we don’t have an option for a 78 F250 4x4. The ones available are designed for 2WD trucks and don’t clear the 4x4 chassis very well.
That’s why you’ll see a lot of guys, like Dave mentioned, end up going with the later EFI-style exhaust manifolds and a Y-pipe instead. It’s a cleaner fit and flows better than the stock system, but it’s not going to make a big difference in the low-end. More of an overall flow improvement with slightly better throttle response.
If your goal is more pulling power down low for towing and light off-road use, you’ve got a couple of solid directions you can go:
- More gear or slightly shorter tires for added mechanical advantage
- A mild RV/torque cam to bring the power in earlier
For a little perspective, with a 235/85-16 (about a 31.7" tire), 4.10 gears, and assuming an NP435 in 4th gear (1:1), you’re roughly around 2400 rpm at 55 mph and about 2800 rpm at 65 mph. That puts most of your normal driving right in that low-to-mid range where cam choice and overall combo really matter more than exhaust alone.
So it really comes down to what you want out of it. Are you after more grunt right off idle, or more usable pull in the midrange when you’re driving and towing? As Dave mentioned, there will be a compromise no matter what you do. All part of modifying vehicles.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I converted the pickup to 4x4 and in doing so, I had to modify the existing crossmembers of course.
The right side of the crossmember was a piece of cake to change to allow for the connection of the two collectors. No sweat for a good muffler shop too.
I've had no issues with intake / exhaust to head gasket, which I think was by Mr Gasket. a nice tough and long gasket. I'm running a 600 Holley universal.
The rotating assembly with hyper pistons was professionally balanced for long duration in the upper rev's while towing up hills.
Been running this setup since July of 1998 and with the whine of the steel timing gear set, it is Nostalgic.
After about 4-year running, I lost a lobe on my Comp Cams mid-range set-up, and went with an early grind Clevite with no more issues.
I did purchase a set of the EFI split cast manifolds for a "just-in-case" and have not needed them. _ _ they sit in a box on the shelf.
The only issue with the factory manifolds is you will probably have to come up with a way to heat the intake manifold. Which you would have had to do with headers anyway. Someone else on here will explain the benefits of that. This is the same build: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-gm-tbi-2.html
Last edited by jrotten67; Apr 7, 2026 at 08:22 AM.
When the motor is cold or it is cold out the intake being cold the fuel drops out of the air and pools on the floor of the intake manifold and then dribbles into the holes to be burned.
I have seen it posted that some do not heat the manifold but I dont know how cold it is when the take the truck out or how it runs?
I heat my factory intake manifold and I have driven it when it was as low as 20*f and not had any problems.
At the time you could buy the plate with pipe nipples off Ebay but have not seen them in years but pretty easy to make using steel or ALM. plate and some pipe fittings.
The other thing you may have trouble with if running the factory intake & carb is the hot air asst. choke. It is the tubes that run to the exhaust manifold and to the carb choke housing.
I used copper tubing wrapped around the EFI manifolds a few times to pick up heat then to the choke housing, works pretty good and all looks factory.
Dave ----














