Weather is finally breaking so work is beginning on my f350.
I’ve decided to swap out the rear axle for a more modern rear to get higher gears and 8x6.5 bolt pattern. It took some searching, but I finally found just what I was looking for. A Sterling 10.25 with 4:10 gears and posi traction. I had to find a dually rear from a cab and chassis truck, and it should be a straight bolt up with no mods needed.

This will take care of the rear, but I’ve still got to decide how to tackle the front to get the 8x6.5 bolt pattern. I read on here where GB Sisson cut the snout off the break drums and bolted on an adapter. I may go this route. I may also try and find a more modern drum to fit and save having to cut up the original drums.

Currently the rear axle is tore down for a complete cleanup and new shoes and seals.

 

A more simple method to get your desired front wheel bolt pattern might be to just swap the whole front axle and spindles/hubs from a 53-56 F250. There are 8 lug disc brake kits available for those spindles, too, if you wanted to go one step further. They may fit on your F350 spindles so it may be worth an email to them for more info and save a lot of hassle. https://www.rusticdiscbrakes.com/pro...disc-brake-kit

 

Thanks for the heads up, I will def look into that.

I know it may not seem like it…..but I’m trying to keep the truck as stock as possible. I wanted an old truck for the simplicity and feel of an old truck, not just the look.

Some things have already been altered, so it’s not in the budget to restore to original. The bed and rear axle have already been changed. The truck has also been switched to 12v. I haven’t had time to go over all of the wiring to see if what’s what.

im still learning what was supposed to be on the truck. Let alone what has been swapped. Lol

I just want a reliable safe old Ford that I take to town, or haul a load if needed.

 

i just did what GB did and it was super simple . ive now had a bunch of the "old timers" na say things we have done to our f3's and 54 f350 but i assure you it works great and was easy to do . the adapters cost less that 150 and i was on the fence about it for almost 2 years and now i am like , why did i wait so long . so silly

 

 

Thanks for the reply. It’s good to know that more than one person did this successfully, and was happy with the outcome.

My adapters will probably be a little pricier, as mine will have to be taller to accommodate dually wheels. Dodge put adapters on their front dually rotors and I think these might work.

I’ve been busy getting the rearend ready for install and haven’t had time to tear into the front and measure everything up.

Nice looking truck!!

 

the one we used were 3" and the wheels we used have a fairly positive offset close to what a dually wheel is so i bet you wont need them to too much taller . we used the dana 60 on the back which worked great to give a taller gear set with out hamstringing the 239 y block but i think we should put some spacers on it to make the rear stick out more . this what the truck looked like before we started . i osolate between that y block and the patina truck with the 302 mated to the 4 speed in indiana , and the drive the green flat head when im home in WI . none of the trucks will replace what the 6.7 can do , but they are so much more fun

 

 

So I went and pulled the front wheel off and was going to pull the drum to get measurements to see if any modern drum might work instead of chopping up these obsolete drums. Simple enough (I thought).

So I went around and thought I got all the nuts broke free. Wrong. Every one of the bolts is turning. Am I missing something, is there some secret to getting these off. Or do I just cut the bolts off and replace with new.

 

From any I've seen there is usually 3 or 4 screws holding the drums to the hubs. Should be slot head screw counter sunk..clean them up well with a wire brush to find them..that what was on mine..

 

Which nuts are you referencing? Are you referencing the lug nuts? I believe that the drivers side is reverse/left handed thread. It is possible that one sheared the interference fit studs and/or hub if this was overlooked.

If you are talking about the fasteners that hold the brake drum to the hub, is it as simple as working the nut and bolt head at the same time (Hub removed from axle of course)?

 

Bvas - to get the assemble off , pop the dust cap off , take the cotter pin out and remove the center nut ( is like a 1 1/6 or 1 1/8th) and then pull the whole assemble off . be careful when removing the race not to get dirt into it . then you can remove the castles off of the drum as they have keeper nuts on the back side . the drums and castles will then separate. there is nothing wrong with the drums you have assuming they are not warped and just reusing them with that 8 x6.5 adapters will be the easiest way to make it all work . the drums are held on by that castle assembly on the central spline with the nut , slotted washer and race . if you did cut the bolts off , the drums still wont come off and the backsides of the nuts will just fall into the drum if that makes sense ? also fyi the wheel cylinders only push one way unlike most more modern brakes that push both ways , and the guy at napa tried to tell me otherwise , but that is not the case , and so id buy new wheel cylinders from chucks trucks . if you use the adapters you will still need to get grade 8 bolts and new nuts . when i did it , the one shoe was way out of adjustment and i still had to fight it off , the other one just slid off easily. im 40 so not young but not old , and have been a trades person my entire life so im not sure what mechanical ability you have so take with a grain of salt , but ive found a lot of the og guys here and in the old truck world are kinda grumpy and na say'ers , and haven't been very helpful to me in the last few years of getting into these trucks , so just know when you put it back together put a lot of grease into the race and then only tighten the bearing that it spins but with a little resistance if that makes sense ? again chuck was kinda grumpy to me at first but has all the stock parts you need and has been a big help and the parts pdf at his website might help you a bunch for new shoes and springs , ect ect

 

also my f3 and f5 had reverse thread lug nuts but not the 54 f350 and if it does it will have a L stamped on it

 

Atomic….Everything you said makes perfect sense. I am familiar with hubs and bearings and all the working parts. I guess I should have examined the drum closer. It didn’t appear as though the dust cover was removable.

I know the drums in the truck will be fine, but you never know when a drum will crack. And they aren’t making them for our trucks anymore.

 

Where did you buy the adapters? if i may ask