Ignition lock and shifter completely stuck
I have a 2001 Escape XLT Automatic.This has never happened to me and I don't know what to do.
My ignition lock seems to be completely frozen I cannot turn the key at all. I also cannot shift gears (Automatic) on the steering column. And the steering wheel is also completely locked. I lubed the lock and sprayed some lube into the general area where the shift lever is. I have no idea what to do now. I heard somewhere that if I disconnect the battery for a while, a lot of the electronics reset themselves.
I don't know if that could unfreeze everything? Is that worth a try?Would that be a job for a lock specialist or will I need an auto mechanic. Can I have my Escape towed when I can't take it out of park?
Depress the brake pedal and confirm that the transmission position is in the parked position.
Turn/pull hard on the steering wheel to see if that will free the keylock mechanism and allow the key cylinder to turn.
I still think there is something wrong with the actual ignition switch. When I insert the key all the way it still won't let me turn the key. If I pull the key out about 1mm then it frees up. Could it just be worn out? Last night I sprayed some penetrating spray into the lock and the surrounding areas and today after I got it to work again I did the same with some 3M dry lube.I hope I didn't make a complete mess in there.
Is there something better I could use? Maybe I could smear some synthetic grease onto the key and work it in? It might be time to replace the lock?
Typically, one only uses a “dry lubricant of either graphite or silicon spray” into locks of any kind.
Grease type lubricants are to be avoided as these have potential to trap and retain dirt and grime in the lock, causing the pins in the key way to stick.
It would be ok to apply alcohol type cleaning spray into a lock as this can help dissolve grease and wash out the dirt or grime by flooding the cylinder, allowing the alcohol to dry and then applying a clean dry type lubricant (graphite or silicone).
I’m not sure what might cause the key not to turn if fully inserted. I’ve had keys that have worn down on the sides and needed to be lifted slightly or jiggled to allow the cylinder to be turned. Maybe compare your key to a duplicate or try your second key into the cylinder and see if it behaves the same way.
I’m pretty sure that getting the cylinder replaced by a dealership would be fairly expensive as compared to ordering an aftermarket replacement cylinder. One aspect to consider is whether you ever needed to get a duplicate key via a dealership that an aftermarket replacement key wouldn’t be able to be ordered through a dealership. One time in the past, I was able to get a duplicate key for a pickup using the vin number from a dealership.
I have only replaced a key cylinder for a 1970s vintage truck which was quite simple. Just push a pin into a small hole in the cylinder and turn the key to allow the cylinder to be removed. Then just inset the new cylinder and turn using the new key. Not sure whether more recent vehicles are as simple…




