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PreFill the Oil Filter? --- or -- put it on Dry?

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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 01:39 PM
  #1  
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PreFill the Oil Filter? --- or -- put it on Dry?

if you are into the Tiny Tid Bits of arguing the difference,
you will enjoy this video.

the Oil Geek has facial emotions, and voice influences that sort of aggravate me,
but, he only goes with Scientific Facts that can be proven.

unlike that other jerk we know so well, that is a bluff and huff.


for me, with the 7.3L HEUI injectors
I'm not worried about the first 2 seconds that crankshaft is turning over...

my engine never starts immediately anyway, it is 3 to 5 seconds before it fires up.

and he runs Dyno tests on 5w20 vs 5w40 vs 5w50 vs 20w50
 
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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 01:43 PM
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Pre-fill the oil filter to cut down cranking time. Maybe just halfway if it gets to heavy.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 07:15 AM
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Prefill..... I dont like the engine trying to start dry at anytime.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 08:19 AM
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Me three: prefill. I have even contemplated an Accusump for pre-startup oiling.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 09:33 AM
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I never bother with pre-fill. Sometimes I'll start the engine and then remove the drain plug and let it run until the HPOP runs itself out of oil as well so I can get a true 100% oil drain. Pour in new oil and the longest crank time that I've ever had to give the poor starter is maybe 30 seconds.
The other scenario is just drain the oil and change the filter. Starts immediately and never skips a beat. Oil pressure guage rises up long before the HPOP reservoir runs dry and the engine runs smoothly the whole time without any signs of struggle.
Bottom line is there is plenty of residule oil coating the bearings to give adequite lubrication at idle for a few seconds of operation before the oil pump picks up the new oil and normal operations are resumed.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I never bother with pre-fill. Sometimes I'll start the engine and then remove the drain plug and let it run until the HPOP runs itself out of oil as well so I can get a true 100% oil drain. Pour in new oil and the longest crank time that I've ever had to give the poor starter is maybe 30 seconds.
The other scenario is just drain the oil and change the filter. Starts immediately and never skips a beat. Oil pressure guage rises up long before the HPOP reservoir runs dry and the engine runs smoothly the whole time without any signs of struggle.
Bottom line is there is plenty of residule oil coating the bearings to give adequite lubrication at idle for a few seconds of operation before the oil pump picks up the new oil and normal operations are resumed.
You still have over 2.5 quarts in there between both of the heads when the high pressure pump starts sucking air. Once the pump gets air, the engine stalls because the air compresses. The lines and rails in the heads are still full.

The only way to get anywhere near most all the oil out is to pull all of the injectors every oil change.


To each his own though. Do what feels good to you.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 11:25 AM
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I pre-fill all vertically oriented oil filters whose openings face upwards on any engine... but make a special point to do so on the 7.3L diesel, since the fuel injection system relies on oil actuation, and since the 1.5 quart filter can itself is so large, I'd rather displace all that air with as much oil as I can (without spilling) before sealing it up to the engine.

I dislike the Duramax oil filter's horizontal orientation. It is the one (and only) complaint that I have ever had with any of the Duramax diesels I have experienced (LBZ, LML, L5P).

I guess this means I really like pre-filling oil filters?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
I pre-fill all vertically oriented oil filters whose openings face upwards on any engine... but make a special point to do so on the 7.3L diesel, since the fuel injection system relies on oil actuation, and since the 1.5 quart filter can itself is so large, I'd rather displace all that air with as much oil as I can (without spilling) before sealing it up to the engine.

I dislike the Duramax oil filter's horizontal orientation. It is the one (and only) complaint that I have ever had with any of the Duramax diesels I have experienced (LBZ, LML, L5P).

I guess this means I really like pre-filling oil filters?
Right there with you. I'll add that ANY engine with a horizontal filter (mostly Fords, Japanese, and older Durrrrge stuff) kinda irritates me. The quart and a half capacity of the 1734 (or 51734 depending on parts house) makes me nervous and I had one instance many years ago on my first 2001 where the engine stalled before oil pressure was achieved.

The smaller filters on gas rigs don't bother me too much.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 02:18 PM
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I like to put it in dry.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Tpayne621
I like to put it in dry.
That's kind of sounding like forced sodomy. Way more info than I wanted to know about anyone, ever.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:51 PM
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Anyone remember those old slant six engines that were in a lot of Mopars? Oil filter mounted upside down and it drained back into the sump every time it was shut down.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
You still have over 2.5 quarts in there between both of the heads when the high pressure pump starts sucking air. Once the pump gets air, the engine stalls because the air compresses. The lines and rails in the heads are still full.

The only way to get anywhere near most all the oil out is to pull all of the injectors every oil change.


To each his own though. Do what feels good to you.
You're right about the HPOP rails. But at least the HPOP reservoir is drained out.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 01:35 AM
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Maybe the easy way is pull the oil drain plug and run it till it stops. Then install plug (or close Kumoto valve) spin on filled oil filter and refill oil pan.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 01:52 AM
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Old Jun 10, 2024 | 05:32 AM
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i am in the prefill camp as it costs me nothing. If you warmed it up prior to draining the oil, the bearings have enough film that they are probably safe... but why run it dry dry if you can help it?

just my 3.2¥ worth. Yen rates killer folks! everything is cheaper for me locally, and as i buy my car parts form the states and ship to the base... My price for that does not change at all
 
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