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had an SES light pop up and cranking was slow with the battery voltage dropping while cranking until start, first try so i loaded the recommended values from BWST's thread and then procceded to record a few seconds as a test, and then recorded again from Key on engine off to cranking and start, (engine was already warmed up.)
I then blipped the throttle once or twice and then let it rip up to about 3k RPM. i just setup the thingamabob in accordance with BWST's thread and recorded and then saved the two files. I do not have excel on this computer and until my other laptop comes back cannot use excel to look at it. could somebody load it and give it a look to see if there is anything obvious?
I had codes about the gem and voltage issues, and one about the PCM. cleared codes then started engine and recorded the two files.
edit, it appears I only recorded one properly as the other was no in the .csv format.
MFDES is 6 mg/stroke and PW is 2.5. These are on the low side of normal for stock injectors at idle, but idle speed looks ok. What injectors do you have? Other than that, nothing else stands out in this file.
It sounds like the codes you retrieved, and the slow crank are most relevant. Time for batteries or cable maintenance? Or maybe a starter? VPWR shows 14V, so alternator is putting out.
Could you post the codes if they come back?
That other file might be in FORScan format (.fsl) If so, you can load it back into FORScan, and then save out the CSV file. But really don't think you need that data. Slow crank is pretty much batteries, cables/connections, starter or charging system issues.
MFDES is 6 mg/stroke and PW is 2.5. These are on the low side of normal for stock injectors at idle, but idle speed looks ok. What injectors do you have? Other than that, nothing else stands out in this file.
It sounds like the codes you retrieved, and the slow crank are most relevant. Time for batteries or cable maintenance? Or maybe a starter? VPWR shows 14V, so alternator is putting out.
Could you post the codes if they come back?
That other file might be in FORScan format (.fsl) If so, you can load it back into FORScan, and then save out the CSV file. But really don't think you need that data. Slow crank is pretty much batteries, cables/connections, starter or charging system issues.
did not expect to get an answer from the Man himself! thanks Friend. Stock injectors 120k miles. batteries are new, but seem to be getting weaker by the day. changed terminals on the right battery (while facing engine) and was getting ready to swap the other side this weekend due to the apparent slowing of the start. the battereis might not be big enough... they are smaller physically then the ones I replaced but were the biggest i could find at that time locally. they are for dieseal engines (at least so marked) I might need to pull the whole starter cable and take a peak see at it even though the terminals look good.
I actually took a screen shot of the codes, will post it with this, I am aware of what most of them are even though there are a few "new" ones. this feedback signal, and the short to fuel sender... the only thing changed in the last 3 weeks was to replace the CC switches, and the overhead console with a used one from fleabay.
Last edited by kenn_chan; Jun 6, 2024 at 02:44 AM.
Reason: clarification
FORScan in the title attracts me like pigs to chit. Happy to help, sir.
That B1203 can sometimes be cured by fixing solder joints on the OTC board, especially if your fuel gauge is working fine. Did you have these B codes before you replaced the overhead trip computer, or after the used ebay one went in?
That SES light might have been triggered by P1670. I'm not sure if there is a difference in troubleshooting process between the OBDII P1670-C code and the PCM P1670 code.
The slow crank should be addressed first, especially if voltage is dropping much below 10V, as this code might not be real, but the result of a weak battery/bad connection.
If you still see P1670, you could check that circuit for an open:
FORScan in the title attracts me like pigs to chit. Happy to help, sir.
That B1203 can sometimes be cured by fixing solder joints on the OTC board, especially if your fuel gauge is working fine. Did you have these B codes before you replaced the overhead trip computer, or after the used ebay one went in?
That SES light might have been triggered by P1670. I'm not sure if there is a difference in troubleshooting process between the OBDII P1670-C code and the PCM P1670 code.
The slow crank should be addressed first, especially if voltage is dropping much below 10V, as this code might not be real, but the result of a weak battery/bad connection.
If you still see P1670, you could check that circuit for an open:
So I never had any codes prior to the trip computer. I removed it cleared codes and the SES is no longer lighting and its no longer reporting a short between the fuel sender signal and ground. so thats that, but I am still getting this code P1670-P, so thats next on the list. Since 1670 is not tripping the SES light can i assume its safe to drive? I have to drive it or the wifes car up to the cabin tonight and would prefer it over her car.
Edit: I believe I've read that low battery can trip a p1670. Might throw the charger on for a spell and do a draw test if you got time to rule out gremlins.
Agree. It must be intermittent enough at this point to keep running for now. Here's some more reading on what it might be. The IDM relay is a quick check - you can swap it with a nearby relay and see if the code goes away.
so, the SeS light came back on about an hour or two after i typed the above. I had substituted my old overhead trip meter for the ebay one and the light and the fuel sender short came back. pulled the overhead console and cleared it and will check tomorrow AM my time to see what codes i got from a 3 hour drive up here to the cabin. Worst case scenario the F150 is up here and we can take it back and leave the F350 here if needed. Gotta go to bed, will check what I can tomorrow between other tasks.
Got some details on the batteries? CCA or group size or a pic? Should be 850 CCA.
these are FLA betteries and I would guess by looking at them that they are not they do not list CCA here in japan.
its funny Pugly the ugly tug was starting no issues on one battery, an optima redtop. the second battery terminals were taped off and just hanging. The dually is slow cranking with two fully charged FLA batteries starting to think that maybe the starter is going out. will a 4R100 starter work on the ZF6?
these are FLA betteries and I would guess by looking at them that they are not they do not list CCA here in japan.
its funny Pugly the ugly tug was starting no issues on one battery, an optima redtop. the second battery terminals were taped off and just hanging. The dually is slow cranking with two fully charged FLA batteries starting to think that maybe the starter is going out. will a 4R100 starter work on the ZF6?
As far as I know yes. Should bolt up and engage regardless of transmission.
As far as I know yes. Should bolt up and engage regardless of transmission.
well just got back from Fuji, and with two battery chargers on the batteries for an hour prior to departure set for CC/CV so constant current up till set point voltage and then hold setpoint voltage while amps adjust down accordingly. batteries fully charged and it barely started I actually had to wait for the glow plugs to shut off to get it to crank fast enough to start.
earlier in the day I purposely tried to bump start it heading slight down hill grade in front of cabin, and it fired right up in third gear, like literally the second the clutch started spinning the engine it fired right up, so this is definitely a starter or wiring to starter issue.
next week I will be at shop by myself this week had family so not so much time to dink with the truck. but next week its battery harness pull, clean, sand and oxgard on all joints. test and then if needed swap starter. I think I will finally install the leece neville alternator too, its one of those projects that I was planning on doing when I had time, and I think its time.
edit: batteries were at about 12.7 after sitting for an entire day without starting, so the batteries themselves are OK i think.
Curious about these Nippon spec batteries. Any chance we can get pics?
size is 85D 26R by panasonic
the dirty greasy looking stuff that attracts all of the dirt and debris is OXGUARD that was applied when I installed the new terminals on the passenger side. I need to find the other two terminals so I can replace the drivers as well. the current cables and end on the dirvers look to be in good shape, but you never know.
notice there is plenty of room for a wider battery.
drivers side clamps, as above I have a set for them, just need to dig them up and see about swapping them.
the date on the battery for install is Reiwa 6 (2024) feb 27 at 112,XXX miles the truck now has 115,XXX so roughly 3k miles since the batteries were installed. they worked great while it was cold, I really think the starter is going and thats what was causing some of the codes to popup due to all the extra amps being pulled by a failing starter. (communication ones). will know soon enough i guess.
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