1948 f1 engine options (teach the noob)
if I failed to provide enough detail please just let me know.
1- everything you can tell me about that inline 6 especially known problems.
2- best places to get parts and things for rebuilds/repairs
3- what engine parts are really difficult to track down for the inline 6
4- I6 or the V8?
5- everything you can share about the flathead 8 especially known problems.
6- where to get parts for the v8
7- Any other words of wisdom on these engines and or stories you got on repairs
8- any special tools I may need if any.
9- what must ask questions for the owner while on the phone (yes even the normal ones like "how did you take care of it etc)
10- any estimated repair costs and time of said repairs would be cool too.
Thank you and God bless
-Boneless J Ham.
TL
R - tell me everything you can about the 1948-1952 engine options and where to get parts please.
That said, I wouldn't get too hung up on engine parts until you find out how well, or not, it runs. If it was a project it may be possible the engine is fresh, just from a long time ago and is good to go. A couple guys here have recently done rebuilds on the flat 6, so it can be done. The hard to find stuff would be exhaust manifolds that are prone to cracking, and the thermostat housing can only be found used. Be gentle with it if you ever change a thermostat. Beyond that, I don't think internals are overly difficult to find, just not cheap. They are a simple engine that runs forever if taken care of. If it's running and complete, that's one less thing to worry about. Others will be along that can give you better first hand insight. If it doesn't run good, and given that the body appears way worse for wear, I'd take a hard pass on this one. There's really nothing left worth spending more than parts truck money on. My 2c.
I don't think you'll gain anything except bragging rights by changing to a V8. Parts availability isn't going to be much different, and possibly even more expensive. Everybody wants a flathead V8 and the buy in can be expensive for good parts. You can talk to a lot of guys that do them and they'll tell you they can go through several blocks before they find one good enough to use, and be out a couple grand in the process. They've been out of production for 70 years and have been used up. A lot of the stuff for either engine is still available from places like NAPA. Good luck with your quest.

It seems questions have been raised about the possibility of substantial rust, particularly in the fenders, of the truck you have your eye on. My truck, as you can see, has rust--particularly in the fenders:
Rust repairs were pretty much completed by 2017. The repairs on the fenders were done correctly by someone who knew what he was doing, but some of the repairs were done on the cheap. I just wanted to get the truck driving again, look respectable, and not have to spend a lot of money.
I think I succeeded:
The engine, transmission, brakes, heater, and seats were rebuilt. The wiring was all replaced, and things like the gauges, lights, generator, starter, and wipers were worked on. New tires, radiator, and a gas tank were purchased. I had to pay someone to do most of the work and probably ended up spending about $12,000.
I'm not saying buying a rusty truck is a good idea, but I am suggesting it can be dealt with. Even if your truck is riddled with rust, it can still be enjoyed. I've made 6 long cross country road trips with mine, and wore out a set of tires since 2017. Even the sketchy rust repairs I did are holding up surprisingly well 7 years out.
Good luck.
Jim
That said, I wouldn't get too hung up on engine parts until you find out how well, or not, it runs. If it was a project it may be possible the engine is fresh, just from a long time ago and is good to go. A couple guys here have recently done rebuilds on the flat 6, so it can be done. The hard to find stuff would be exhaust manifolds that are prone to cracking, and the thermostat housing can only be found used. Be gentle with it if you ever change a thermostat. Beyond that, I don't think internals are overly difficult to find, just not cheap. They are a simple engine that runs forever if taken care of. If it's running and complete, that's one less thing to worry about. Others will be along that can give you better first hand insight. If it doesn't run good, and given that the body appears way worse for wear, I'd take a hard pass on this one. There's really nothing left worth spending more than parts truck money on. My 2c.
I don't think you'll gain anything except bragging rights by changing to a V8. Parts availability isn't going to be much different, and possibly even more expensive. Everybody wants a flathead V8 and the buy in can be expensive for good parts. You can talk to a lot of guys that do them and they'll tell you they can go through several blocks before they find one good enough to use, and be out a couple grand in the process. They've been out of production for 70 years and have been used up. A lot of the stuff for either engine is still available from places like NAPA. Good luck with your quest.

Hey im grateful for the reply. I am asking these things to really make a choice on that truck. I am thinking that I can get it for closer to 4k and I was going to talk with the owner some more about its history. He seemed very knowledgeable and knew about the hood letter thing but, we didn't chat long due to me assuming it was spoken for. I would like to have a nice long chat on this truck. When we did talk he told me he drives it around and restored another truck either a 52 or a 56 I forgot. So I want to know why its been sitting around. I've been really stuck on this one because around here all the other trucks in those years have been chopped up and hot rodded or are so clean and nice they belong in museums. This has been the only one that was reasonable and with in a 4 hour drive one way. Yet Id rather you tell me all the bad so I can make a choice here.
Its just hard to make a call on that truck because it was someone's project before him. I don't mind redoing all the sheet metal and I was getting ready to get tools just for that at work but, that's expensive and may not be worth it, I'm hoping the mechanical stuff was rebuilt back in the day and he didn't finish the body. I will ask for pictures of the lettering area and if he will take a magnet to it for me before I get there and magnet tap everything. Great advice.
I have several V8s and they're pretty much like any other engine. I have one disassembled on the shop floor right now that needs pistons/rings/bearings, etc.
The following applies to both.
Block cracking from poor maintenance is the biggest cause of problems. Some cylinder cracks can be pinned and/or sleeved. Cracks along the oil pan rails from freezing are deadly to the block.
They were assembled with SAE bolts and nuts - nothing metric.
Only special tool that might be helpful would be a valve spring bar, although I've used a regular construction pry bar to remove them in a pinch.
V8 specific:
Early blocks 32-48 canNOT be hung on an engine stand by the half bell. It will break the casting. Later 48-54 blocks (US 53/CAN 54) can be hung on a standard engine stand.
If you need to have cylinders bored to a larger size to clean up damage, most can safely be taken out to +0,125 but should be sonic tested first. Be sure the machinist knows flatheads because the crank is offset a couple of degrees off the centerline of the bores.
Spend time searching online for flathead parts. You'll be surprised at how much is out there. The guys here can tell you their favorite vendors and who is in business today. Many of the places I used 25 years ago are no longer operating.
The biggest concern I have about that truck is knowing they did a half-a**ed job on that upper valance and puttied over the holes where the D should attach. Makes me wonder what else they covered up. The front fenders may be fiberglass one-piece units. The stock parting line is missing.
Bottom line: You have to consider what you pay for it as the "cost of education" and I can't put a value on that. It depends how deep your pockets are. Personally I'd pass on this one for that amount, but I know what it's like to have money burning a hole in your pocket. The only way to learn is to own one and the only thing you can lose is cash. If you buy it we'll support you thru the process. Good luck with your decision.
There seems to be concern about the possibility of substantial rust, particularly in the fenders, of the truck you are thinking about purchasing. My truck, as you can see, has rust--particularly in the fenders:
Rust repairs were pretty much completed by 2017. The repairs on the fenders were done correctly by someone who knew what he was doing, but some of the repairs were done on the cheap. I just wanted to get the truck driving again, look respectable, and not have to spend a lot of money.
I think I succeeded:
The engine, transmission, brakes, heater, and seats were rebuilt. The wiring was all replaced, and things like the gauges, lights, generator, starter, and wipers were worked on. New tires were purchased. I had to pay someone to do most of the work and probably ended up spending about $12,000.
I'm not saying buying a rusty truck is a good idea, but I am suggesting it can be dealt with. Even if your truck is riddled with rust, it can still be enjoyed. I've made 6 long cross country road trips with mine, and wore out a set of tires since 2017. Even the sketchy rust repairs I did are holding up surprisingly well 7 years out.
Good luck.
Jim
MY FELLOW WISCONSINNITE! Have you brought that truck of yours to any car shows in the state? Looking great! Thank you for sharing those things. The fenders all look pretty clean and being that the ones on it are the wrong color they have clearly been replaced at some point. I assume (based off how it looks) that it hit a buck back in the day. The only trouble I have is that the truck was purchased as a uncomplete project from someone else who had been working on it and I have no idea whats been done and what hasnt.
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It's hard to find the perfect truck at the perfect price. In our fallen world, sometimes you just have to go with the best available. Recently I was in the market for a Jeep WJ. I wanted one clean and relatively rust free for under $5,000. It couldn't be found in WI. I ended up settling for much more rust than I thought I would.
Where in WI are you located? Bob Jones, a member here that fixed my fenders, lives in the Milwaukee area. We have a few other WI members that may send their greetings shortly.
Jim
It's hard to find the perfect truck at the perfect price. In our fallen world, sometimes you just have to go with the best available. Recently I was in the market for a Jeep WJ. I wanted one clean and relatively rust free for under $5,000. It couldn't be found in WI. I ended up settling for much more rust than I thought I would.
Where in WI are you located? Bob Jones, a member here that fixed my fenders, lives in the Milwaukee area. We have a few other WI members that may send their greetings shortly.
Jim
Im about 2 hours away from Mr.Jones then. Thats cool that someone in the state has that knowledge. I hope he is welcome to teaching it. I wonder if he has seen that red truck then.
Its just hard to make a call on that truck because it was someone's project before him. I don't mind redoing all the sheet metal and I was getting ready to get tools just for that at work but, that's expensive and may not be worth it, I'm hoping the mechanical stuff was rebuilt back in the day and he didn't finish the body. I will ask for pictures of the lettering area and if he will take a magnet to it for me before I get there and magnet tap everything. Great advice.
The OP is young I discovered and so hopefully has the time for a full blown restoration project. He may have the skills too needed to turn the truck he has his eye on into something special without unduly straining his finances. If he can get it for $4,000, and it runs and drives, he may do alright.
Jim
I did not think it was harsh at all. You are being realistic and speaking from knowledge and thank you for doing that. You are looking out for me and I really appreciate that. Seriously thank you. I've been looking for a project as of late because it gives me a little escape now and then. I don't think I really know all that goes into these things. I know from first glance its going to need work and im excited to do it but, like you said why put more parts money into a truck than what it is worth. I still would like to know more about this truck regardless because its just such a odd ball to me.
This is why I like this forum so much. Wayne made me laugh out loud. And he is right. I bought a total trash heap of a 1951 F2 but it stirred up my loins mainly because it was red. I spent a lot of time and money to get it looking and running good. My next truck was a 1949 F3 that was originally red under some blue housepaint but I painted it Meadow Green. I will add that chicks made more positive comments about the green color than the red.
Both of these trucks had the I6 engine. I personally liked them but more people want the V8. The exhaust manifold and themostat housing have already been mentioned. I'll add that oversize piston rings and undersize bearings are hard to find for this engine - but not impossible. With determination you can find any part for that engine. It is common to find discarded engines by people who did modern drive train swaps. You can get a whole engine for $200 in many parts of this country.
Tom














