Has anyone used the Moroso Gasket with any luck? I really don't want to pull the engine to reseal the pan unless I have too.... Plenty out there have installed it from what I can tell, but I cant get any follow up if it held together more than a month, year, 5 years?

Back story-

So, I picked up an early 99 CC SB last year, only 170 k, pretty sweet truck, matches my 01 nicely, wife uses it to tow the boat while I tow the camper with the other truck. Been a fight all winter with it, beleive I have now rep[laced every single o-ring in it, turbo, pedastal, rear head plugs, oil cooler, then the fuel bowl started leaking. Just did the hpop lines last weekend. Finally had a dry top end, drove it to work 1 day, more oil when I got home. Pan is leaking on drivers side about half way up the side, right between the two little 5/16 galley plugs. Hoped it was just the plugs, pulled and relocktited for good measure. everything spotless and clean, fire it up, and can see it seeping out of pan edge, runs down pan, drips onto sway bar, runs to middle of truck, and leaves a nice puddle..... Tried snugging the pan bolts, they were all pretty loose, 1/4 drive ratchet in palm and i could get 1/4 to 3/8 turn on all of them. SO, after 25 years, the grey super rtv has finally given up, not a real shock. Guess its bellowed up pipe time as well if I have to pull it....

At least the old 2001 with almost 300k still runs perfect this one will too, just have to beat it into submission

 

While having the clutch replaced in my 2002 F350, I took the opportunity to slam in a new Moroso oil pan. I bought the vowel and got the big blue gasket with it. The dude that worked on my truck hadn't seen one before, but said it went in just fine. After 6 months I haven't had one drop of oil leak from there. And that is through a cold northern Maine winter where the expansion/contraction would reveal any problems on install.

 

Thanks for that reply, being in Montana, your Maine winter makes me feel a lot better about trying this route.

I have a nice shop i built 3 years ago with hoist and good floor jacks, think I might try lifting cab and engine together and put one of these on.

Any more experiences out there I would love to hear about.

 

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/moros...roduct-reviews

latest reviews say it isnt so good

 

Been running the Moroso gasket in my truck since January 2021. No issues yet.

 

Thanks everyone! Reviews seemed mixed, so maybe some installation issues on the thumbs down. Just ordered the pan and gasket. Will report back once its on.

 

Yeah I installed one on my 7.3 a few years ago, love the gasket hate the hardware. Had 2 of the studs included w/ the gasket break within 6 months, all torqued to their spec by me. Replaced them all with factory Ford hardware and no issues since.

 

good to know on hardware, wouldn't be hard to put upgraded studs or bolts on when i do it, small potatoes in the scheme of things.

 

i recall that if you can let it sit for a week, most of the oil that drips down internally will be minimal and help with sealing if you choose to use any sealant

 

its in the shop, and i don't plan to move it, so it will actually be two weeks it sits(even if parts get here, I am booked this weekend), Reading directions online, looks like the corners do need some rtv.

 

I have my 7.3 engine pulled and on the engine stand. I’m about to do the Grey goo gasket but first I need some advice. First off is it safe to flip it upside down?? I was concerned it would swing really fast due to the weight of the top half of the motor. Idk.
secondly, I know I should let the goo set up for a little bit to stiffen up before I torque to spec.

But my main question is,
how much tension should I put on the pan while it forms a gasket? I was thinking about just letting the weight of the oil pan press down on the sealant while the engine is upside down. Is that enough pressure to form a goo gasket? Or do I need to actually tighten down the bolts a little?? Thanks.


After

Before

 

Here's the instructions for Permatex which is in the same ballpark as the T-31.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...round%20flange.

As for flipping the motor how big of a guy are ya? Can it be done alone yeah I have but didn't consider it good time. An extra pair of hands would be recommended in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the tip I don’t know why I overcomplicate things. I just don’t want to do it again next week cus I messed it up lol. Also I’m not a big fan of reinventing the wheel. That’s why I joined this forum. You guys know a lot! Thanks again.
Oh side note, when I had the engine upside down it actually work great cus the weight of the oil pan pressed down on the rtv and formed a perfect gasket. I finger tightened the bolts and torqued them to spec after an hour.

 

The new Moroso pan and gasket are in, all good now.

Not the worst job I have ever done, but not that fun either lol

I unbolted the engine, exaust from turbo, took out inter cooler pipes and baby butt, then removed the front 6 cab bolts and loosened the rear two(trying to keep cab where it belongs)

I used a hoist in cieling to lift engine while lifting the cab with a loor jack, about an inch at a time each to keep the fan in the shroud, I needed 3 4x4 crip blocks on the jack to get the height right, I then sat the cab on 8 1/4" 4x4 blocks pushed up against the front body mount studs. 2 4x4 blocks 6 inches long held the engine up just right.

Once it was all in place, pull cover off torque converter/flywheel area, , pull the dipstick, pull the pan basically. I did have to take off one wiring harness up front to make room that holds battery cable.

Once down, scrape, clean everything.

Fit the pan with no gasket to start, I had to file off some pan lip where it goes past the oil filter housing, and file out 3 of the bolt holes a little to get it to slide onto the studs cleanly.

then final wipedown with acetone on everything, shoot some rtv into the 4 lip edges where front and rear covers meet block, put on gasket, evenly snug up nuts on the studs, torque then to 10 lbs to start, then 15 to finish them off.

Poof, no leaks

reassemble as disassembled.. The gasket does make your dipstick reading off a little as it is a 1/4 inch thick. I bent the upper mount a little to make it seat all the way down into the pan fitting so it should be right now.

glad thats over lol

 

Did you put a better dip stick adapter unto the pan? Like a weld on one or something? Nice job. Way to get it done.