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Truck only starts when I lift my steering wheel up towards windshield
I recently purchased a 1988 F150 XLT Lariat that is in decent shape. Runs and drives pretty well and I’m hoping it will be a fun restoration project. My question is regarding the fact that I have to lift up on the steering wheel pretty strongly to get the truck to start. If I don’t lift on it, and just turn the key, all the accessory and lights come on but won’t start. I’ve seen some post about the actuator, but those were all about older trucks than I have. Hoping someone in here can confirm the actuator or point me in the right direction. Thanks!
There is wiring inside of the column for the turn signal switch. Not sure if that helps, or even relates to the problem. But those wires go down the column, and that includes the spot where it bends, for the tilt wheel.
Looking up at the bottom of your steering column, after removing the lower trim pieces from around the steering column, remove these two bolts. That will allow the steering column to be lowered. Then you can see the rod that runs down the top of the steering column, between your key switch and the electrical ignition switch, that is mounted further down the column. Turn the key to the on position and back to the off position a few times, and watch the movement of that rod. If it moves with the key switch, you need to take a look at the ignition switch that's mounted on the column, and the wiring associated with it. If the rod doesn't move properly when you rotate your key, then the problem is between the key cylinder and the rod... Likely the actuator that connects the key cylinder to the rod.
Remove the bottom plastic from your steering wheel column. It'll expose your ignition switch and electrical harness. The harness is held to ignition switch with a 10mm bolt that loosens up over time, allowing the connector to back out. Check that bolt to make sure it's tight.
before dropping the column, if auto trans, make sure you disconnect the auto trans shift indicator or you will be spending around $100 to replace the broken one.
For sure seems like a short in the harness, or a loose connection that the wheel movement is causing to reconnect. If you cannot get it fixed with the other guys say, I doubt you will, but it be worth it to get a nice voltmeter and hook it up to your starter wiring, and see if the short is elsewhere, I really doubt it though. I know there is a little plastic piece in the ignition column that can break but it seems like its in good shape.
before dropping the column, if auto trans, make sure you disconnect the auto trans shift indicator or you will be spending around $100 to replace the broken one.
88Bricknose did you see this? Hope I didn't steer you wrong on the shift indicator.
The ignition switch can be adjusted, if needed. There are two nuts that clamp the switch to the column, 11mm if I remember correctly. Like Soup Bean mentioned, you want to see if the rod that moves the ignition switch contacts is actually moving easily over it's entire range. Lifting up the column is putting pressure on that ignition rod and forcing it a little further down into the switch, which allows it to make contact for the starter circuit. I replaced my switch a little while ago and found the old one was coming apart, the plastic top was separating from the metal bottom. If I had known that before buying a new switch I would have just snapped it back together and re-bent the tabs to hold it together. I would confirm the mechanism is working properly before diving into replacing the actuator rod. The key cylinder turns a pinion gear that moves a little rack that then moves that goofy cast pot metal actuator rod. The actuator rod takes the movement from the side of the column and transitions it to the top of the column where it connects to the ignition rod that extends down the top of the column and into the ignition switch. Sometimes, just adjusting the ignition switch can get the function back.
The ignition switch can be adjusted, if needed. There are two nuts that clamp the switch to the column, 11mm if I remember correctly. Like Soup Bean mentioned, you want to see if the rod that moves the ignition switch contacts is actually moving easily over it's entire range. Lifting up the column is putting pressure on that ignition rod and forcing it a little further down into the switch, which allows it to make contact for the starter circuit. I replaced my switch a little while ago and found the old one was coming apart, the plastic top was separating from the metal bottom. If I had known that before buying a new switch I would have just snapped it back together and re-bent the tabs to hold it together. I would confirm the mechanism is working properly before diving into replacing the actuator rod. The key cylinder turns a pinion gear that moves a little rack that then moves that goofy cast pot metal actuator rod. The actuator rod takes the movement from the side of the column and transitions it to the top of the column where it connects to the ignition rod that extends down the top of the column and into the ignition switch. Sometimes, just adjusting the ignition switch can get the function back.
is there any way you could send a video of that? This is all really new to me, so I’m not really sure what I’m looking at.
is there any way you could send a video of that? This is all really new to me, so I’m not really sure what I’m looking at.
A bad pic, but this is running down the top of the steering column. I’m not sure what this bar is, but it moves when I turn the key. It looks bent down the line. Could that be the issue?
Troubleshoot one thing at a time, but it's possible that your firewall is flexing and when you push the clutch, your clutch safety switch isn't fully activating. In the attached picture, the switch is marked with a green dot, the steering column flange is marked with a blue dot, and the steering column is marked with a yellow dot.
With the parking brake set and/or the wheels chocked, and with the truck in neutral, lay in the floor and pull the safety switch up the clutch rod, only about 3/8 of an inch, then, while holding it up, turn the key to the start position. Be prepared for the truck to start from a safety stand point.
It's possible that moving the steering wheel is flexing the firewall back to it's normal position, and that's why the truck starts when you push up on the steering wheel.
Picture is looking up at the accelerator side of the steering column. The switch is mounted to the clutch push rod.
Troubleshoot one thing at a time, but it's possible that your firewall is flexing and when you push the clutch, your clutch safety switch isn't fully activating. In the attached picture, the switch is marked with a green dot, the steering column flange is marked with a blue dot, and the steering column is marked with a yellow dot.
With the parking brake set and/or the wheels chocked, and with the truck in neutral, lay in the floor and pull the safety switch up the clutch rod, only about 3/8 of an inch, then, while holding it up, turn the key to the start position. Be prepared for the truck to start from a safety stand point.
It's possible that moving the steering wheel is flexing the firewall back to it's normal position, and that's why the truck starts when you push up on the steering wheel.
Picture is looking up at the accelerator side of the steering column. The switch is mounted to the clutch push rod.
Interesting, I'll give that a look tonight. If that is the case, what is the fix for that?
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