I didn't know that it had happened on my DS rear caliper, but it DID! I'm suspecting the Firestone crew who recently installed two new tires, rotating the used rears to the front. There are other signs of their incompetence (almost completely unremovable lug nuts, etc.).

Anyway, from the pictures below, you can see what I'm referring to.

My suspicion is that they did not properly seat the tire and placed the wheel in a bind, and ended up "machining" the inner surface of the wheel AND the external surface of my caliper housing. Obviously, this would have made one monstrous squalling racket, to which they investigated and reseated the wheel... all BEFORE I picked up the truck, and they did NOT tell me anything about the damage in the pictures. Upon close inspection this weekend (when I discovered this), I can find no other indications of any damage in either the axle of braking system.

SO... does my suspicion make good sense to you guys? Any other potential explanation for how this could have happened? [No other wheel or caliper shows anything similar.]

 

I've had that when I put the wrong wheels on before. I can't imagine how you could incorrectly install the correct wheel and cause that interference.

I also found that you cannot put a spare from a 99-04 truck onto a 05+ truck due to caliper interference.

 

I bet whoever did brakes last forgot to bolt the caliper to the bracket.

 

Good thought, but incorrect in this case. It was me who did the brakes, and everything was, has been, and is tight. In fact, the rear brakes have not been touched since I replaced the pads and rotors about 155K miles ago (I got 188K miles on the OEM rear pads and rotors). I'm also extremely sensitive to ANY noises like grinding, scraping, knocking, ticking, clicking, hissing, thumping, etc. There have been none.

 

Have you tried to replicate the scenario you describe, see if it's plausible and that the wear marks would/could line up? Those grind marks on the caliper are not from a brief encounter. Either the person that test drove it is def or from that extra special section on the short bus.

 

Maybe tire guy did first nut at 350lbs and never noticed it was misaligned when doing the rest of lugs

 

Oh yeah. I've usrd a grinder to remove 1/2" across nearly the whole back side to fit 16" wheels on 2012 rear brakes.

 

The amount of wear on the caliper housing is definitely concerning. The mating "machining" inside the wheel is equally concerning.

I only discovered this when I removed the rears to check for rear brake pad wear (given the length of time since I did the job, and wanting to NOT eat another set of rotors). The wheel came off and went back on smooth and easy with no hinderances or interferences at all, and that's why I suspected it to be from a road test run when Firestone did the tires back in December. I know that the ****** who did the tire job put lug nuts back on with their super duty impact wrench because I almost could not remove at least one lug nut off each wheel! They also could not figure out how to replace a "frozen" upper ball joint bushing to complete the alignment task.

All of the above is why I strongly suspect some type of idiot action/inaction on that particular wheel, coupled with no communication about having had an issue. I'm strongly tempted to go back to them and pursue the issue from a damage standpoint, but I honestly feel that would be a fruitless effort and I really don't have time for any deflective/denial nonsense from them.

 

The way it's only one one side of caliper and all the way around the wheel I'm going to go with one of the bolts we're left out of the caliper or caliper mount also. Don't see any other way it would happen if it's all the way around the wheel.
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I'm wondering if it's the wrong wheel.

 

No idea how it happened, but I wouldn't worry about the caliper. The wheel, however, I would replace immediately.

 

If the wheel is stock, the barrel is PAPER THIN to begin with.

 

I watch the tire guys, if they do NOT use a Torque Wrench, I will refuse to pay for the job...

we have a tire shop opposite my home here, I was out of state taking carE of sick family last summer for 3 months. During that time, my daughter's car started having squealing brakes, this after only 3 weeks of that store "doing a brake job" and replacing a bad front axle. Pontiac Vibe.

she is a mail carrier, drives 110 miles a day. they told her that "you do not know how to drive a car, it is NOT our fault", and charged her over $700 to replace rotors and pads....

in about 4 weeks, they were locking up so bad, the motor could not pull forward, without letting the brakes cool down.

when I got home, I found the Caliper pins frozen solid, no grease. the RF wheel had one pad worn down to metal, and that side of the rotor destroyed, in less than 6 weeks?

I railed at them via a phone from Utah, home is Oklahoma.
they would not back down on their claims, I got on the local Facebook group and reamed their case bad, and made it loud and clear that they mistreat women.

after I got back home, I had to buy every new again, over $700 for parts, calipers, rotors, pads, new pins, new springs for the rear brakes, etc....

at least now, the brakes are working like they should....
tire store mechanics are Low Lifes who can't get a job at a good dealership.

 

Is your axle bent?

I helped a friend and fellow FTE member determine his axle was bent, where the first indication of an issue was brake interference and asymmetric clearances of the caliper bracket from top to bottom, and from side to side.

I suggested stripping everything down to the backing plate. At the time, I didn't want to lay down on the ground (I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get back up again) so I returned later with a creeper with 6 wheels (so I could be towed out with a rope in case I couldn't get back up again), and when I sight-lined the axle stub out, it was as bent as the top of Gandalf's staff.

He was already thinking about locating a replacement axle, but the bent stub end was the bad news that confirmed the wisdom of that expensive direction.

 

Check for lateral runout. That sums many tolerances.



Put me into the "grind off casting bulk that don't matter" club. These castings are way over spec'd. A 1/16th off the casting is nothing irl.