Gelled 6.7 Diesel 911 powerservice cp4 damage?
Grabbed some diesel 911 and put about 16 oz in a 3/4 full tank and a little on the dcfm filter. By that time I lost the thick square rubber o ring off the end of the drain valve on the bottom of the filter housing in the bucket of foggy diesel and got frostbite. Had to get a tow home. I think I picked up some bad diesel locally, never had a problem before.
My two big concerns for when it warms up outside. Could a guy do considerable damage running a cp4 pump low enough fuel pressure to the point it stalls a few times, and should I drain my tank because of the diesel 911 I added into it..
Thanks for your consideration
-Austin
secondly, heat with a heat gun does not reverse gelling. Gelling is a permanent chemical change in which diesel turns to wax. Not reversible. Products like 921 emergency try to break down the wax….but…these checmicals also reduce fuel lube value .
best bet is to change your filters. I keep previously pulled filters that I changed based on miles that are still good since I change early…for the purpose of gel clean up. You will probally clogg up the second set of filters .
next, if you have a 17 thru 19, the engine will cut off when fuel pressure drops but at the same time there will still be some fuel left in the pump.
Next, always add over the recommended fuel additive as extra protection.
lastly, get an s&s DPK kit installed. If the cp4 blows, with a s&s dpk, only the cp4 will need to be replaced.
I was on the fence about a DPK kit for a while thinking it wouldn't happen to my truck its a 2011 with 265k on it. That's definitely going to be my next project as soon as I can get it inside.
As far as gelling I can't tell if it was gel or just very thick diesel on the filter or not, it was more or less the consistency of snot. It all dripped off pretty quick with the heatgun and looked like a brand new filter in about a minute or so. I assumed at the time it was the filter plugging, but early this morning I pulled the supply line for the DFCM to the tank and could not blow compressed air through the line at all completely blocked off with I would assume ice? I drain my separator religiously and have never seen any amount of water.
So new filters for a short time then change them again. Draining the tank is probably a good idea with the 911 in it?
sure, it’s wax so a heat gun will melt it so that it drips off the surface of the filter….but…there’s still going to be wax in the filter fibers.
we don’t know how much wax is in your tank so hard to say if it’s worth your time to drain it all and run it thru some type of filter.
my point about multiple filter changes was to explain that there is probally enough wax in the fuel to clog your filters a few times. I kept early changed filters in a large zip lock bag and use them in a wax emergency .
just remember that the wax will not thaw out when it gets warm.
Good luck on moving forward.
I may just empty and run the tank through my diesel heater to be on the safe side and go fill up a jerry can with some #1
I never thought about saving an older filter. Thats a good idea.
Thanks for your input Merry Christmas!
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Merry Christmas!
We had just about 0 degree temps here in WNY. My truck's been sitting in my driveway since Thursday night with the plow on. Not plugged in. While I realize it's not as cold as some of the colder areas, still pretty cold. She fired right up with no problems.
I use the winter dose of 500 to 1 with K100D+.
x2 on the S&S DPK Gen 2.1 kit.
I have the Gen 2, with Racor Parker SNAPP filters but not installed yet.
Any users who have the Gen 2 like mine can upgrade to the Gen 2.1 as it's 50% off until the end of the year for $60. I actually ordered it to have at such a savings in case there's a problem finding the SNAPP filters. But I'm OVERKILL.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'll pull that regulator screen deal on the cp4 and look for shavings before I order the S&S 2.1. I'm sure its probably fine I add LX4 to every fill and hopefully the tolerances at that temperature were loose, and enough fuel hung around in the pump to not scar anything up. I think this is the first year of using powerservice, in the past i used hot shot secret.
I feel like I definitely screwed up the ratio. I have an 80 gallon transfer tank in the back I treated with powerservice and its nice and blue can see through it fine about 30" to the bottom. The truck tank is bright yellow and really cloudy and 2" in a bucket can't see the bottom.
Kinda nice when you can't drive for a while, makes the next drive that much more fulfilling.
Merry Christmas!
I'll pull that regulator screen deal on the cp4 and look for shavings before I order the S&S 2.1. I'm sure its probably fine I add LX4 to every fill and hopefully the tolerances at that temperature were loose, and enough fuel hung around in the pump to not scar anything up. I think this is the first year of using powerservice, in the past i used hot shot secret.
I feel like I definitely screwed up the ratio. I have an 80 gallon transfer tank in the back I treated with powerservice and its nice and blue can see through it fine about 30" to the bottom. The truck tank is bright yellow and really cloudy and 2" in a bucket can't see the bottom.
Kinda nice when you can't drive for a while, makes the next drive that much more fulfilling.
Merry Christmas!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-issue-2.html
you have to a big time fuel lube additive
a. If your fuel has clouded but your filters are not clogged… You pour the bottle into you tank. The ratio is not clear since it says “treats up to 100 gallons”. So if you have 1/4 tank…do you modify the dose rate?
b. If your filters are clogged…pour a 50/50 mix of reduce and diesel into your filters. So for 2011 thru 2016….this would mean removing both filters and for the engine bay filter do the pour into filter method (using a funnel I guess). For the under chasis filter it would probally be easier to remove the filter element and soak the filter element in the mix (using a coffee can or water ever. Just relying on a tank pour would not be enough. ANd, I’m assuming you would need to not use all of your 911 rescue for the 50/50 mix since you still need to do a tank pour.
for 2017 and newer same approach but you will need a 5 gallon pail to soak the in tank filter .
Assuming of course you do not have new filters and if you have new filters you still need the tank pour.
Here's an article I found that explains some stuff...
https://unitedworldtransportation.co...winter-months/
Another one...
https://www.peragon.com/blog/diesel-...fuel-additive/
Looking at Tractor Supply online, it seems like they sell the majors like Hot Shots, Power Service and Stanadyne...
I'd definitely find something that specifically adds lubricity besides the anti-gel.
Good luck.
EDIT
The only thing I'll add and most don't agree with me, I use K100, which is not petroleum like all the other additives. Petroleum does not "mix" with water, I'll explain after this, but excess moisture in diesel at very low temps with also be a problem besides the parrafin wax crystalizing as well.
K100 breaks down the water at the molecular level and encapsulates it with a burnable compound... so it has zero effects on the fuel system like rust and corrosion. I'm not looking for a p1ss1ng contest here on additives... all I'm doing is stating what I use and why. My truck will be at 100k miles soon with every tank having K100D+ in it. Consider this just FYI for anyone reading this...
This subject has been hashed over before when I've mentioned this and I'm not looking to go back into it... I don't work for the folks who make it nor make any money using it... I just use as a private citizen who won't use anything else is all.
Good luck with your truck bro.
Last edited by Overkill2; Dec 26, 2022 at 10:07 AM. Reason: add to post












