$6,000 For Starter and Oil Pan Replacement?!
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 94
Likes: 29
From: West Virginia
No way, man.
The engine is bolted to the crossmember under the oil pan. There is a time-lapsed video of an FTE member-- albeit experienced --removing a 7.3 in under three hours. I see no need to remove the cab to pull the engine.
Leaks at the oil pan dipstick port are common. Some can be resolved by tightening the flange, removing and resealing it or the most expensive DIY is a billet adapter. Assuming that's where the problem is.
I just replaced my starter this past September for $235 for the starter, put it in myself.
Have someone else look at it...
The engine is bolted to the crossmember under the oil pan. There is a time-lapsed video of an FTE member-- albeit experienced --removing a 7.3 in under three hours. I see no need to remove the cab to pull the engine.
Leaks at the oil pan dipstick port are common. Some can be resolved by tightening the flange, removing and resealing it or the most expensive DIY is a billet adapter. Assuming that's where the problem is.
I just replaced my starter this past September for $235 for the starter, put it in myself.
Have someone else look at it...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
I don’t think the dealership will be the best place for repairs on a 20 year old truck. I would find someone who knows the 7.3 and take it to them (actually I’d do it myself but it sounds like that’s not your desire).
I’d like to see this “hole in the pan”. The dipstick adapter is probably just leaking which is common like Tomkat said.
Any backyard mechanic should be able to change the starter. But first, are you certain it’s the starter and not the solenoid or ignition switch? How did they diagnose it?
I’d like to see this “hole in the pan”. The dipstick adapter is probably just leaking which is common like Tomkat said.
Any backyard mechanic should be able to change the starter. But first, are you certain it’s the starter and not the solenoid or ignition switch? How did they diagnose it?
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 2,934
From: Reed Point, MT
I've fixed a few for free after someone told them it was the pan or rear main seal.
The boots from the "y" in the intake will leak oil from crankcase vapors into the valley, down the intake plenums, and down the drain hole at the back of the block....tightening them is usually a good cheap fix. Also, if the drain hole is obstructed with debris, it will prolong the perceived leak.
I'd like to see this hole by the dipstick adapter too. There are a few ways to fix it for good without pan replacement. The closest I'd ever get to cab removal is a 6-speed truck....it takes jacking up the cab a little at the front to make clearance for the pan and input shaft.....but it's no more than a couple hours' work to extract the engine without cab removal. Yes, book time (flat rate) will empty your wallet and there's no way around it these days unless you find someone still charging straight time to do jobs.
The boots from the "y" in the intake will leak oil from crankcase vapors into the valley, down the intake plenums, and down the drain hole at the back of the block....tightening them is usually a good cheap fix. Also, if the drain hole is obstructed with debris, it will prolong the perceived leak.
I'd like to see this hole by the dipstick adapter too. There are a few ways to fix it for good without pan replacement. The closest I'd ever get to cab removal is a 6-speed truck....it takes jacking up the cab a little at the front to make clearance for the pan and input shaft.....but it's no more than a couple hours' work to extract the engine without cab removal. Yes, book time (flat rate) will empty your wallet and there's no way around it these days unless you find someone still charging straight time to do jobs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
but it's no more than a couple hours' work to extract the engine without cab removal.
I feel like the dealer quote says something about their current level of experience with the 7.3. Or they just don’t want the job.
By the way the font was weird on the beginning of your post and barely visible. Grey color maybe?
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 94
Likes: 29
From: West Virginia
I haven't looked around it myself. Should there be space enough to get to the dipstick port with my hand without removing to many things? I know there are quality metal putties on the market and if it could save me $1,000's, I would have no problem at all taking a chance on a shoddy fix.
And the starter: I could hear it when I'd turn the key, nothing but the sound of static.
And the starter: I could hear it when I'd turn the key, nothing but the sound of static.
A "hole in the oil pan" would more likely be at the bottom or sides, from rust or impact. I've not read of any holes from such damage near the dip stick tube port/flange area.
You can check your starter by touching a wire from the passenger positive battery terminal the the small lug on the starter solenoid. If the engine cranks the starter is good. This can be done with the key off.
Turn the ignition key on (dash lights up) and jump the starter solenoid's two large terminals with a screwdriver or pliers. If the engine cranks and fires the solenoid is good.
Check, clean and or tighten your battery terminals, check your battery wiring.
"Static?"
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5th Gear
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
You need the Golden Nugget from Strictly Diesel...Yes, it's $300 bones but it works. Or you can give a go with the kit from Diesel O-rings for $70.
https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...vision-iv.html
https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...vision-iv.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
This is the starter I’m going with if mine ever gets weak. Made in USA and this brand has worked very well on the race car. Folks here seem to like it too. https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9051
I would still check over the wiring before buying a starter. And no way would I pay $1000 for a starter change. The good one I shared from Summit is closer to $200.
I would still check over the wiring before buying a starter. And no way would I pay $1000 for a starter change. The good one I shared from Summit is closer to $200.
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 94
Likes: 29
From: West Virginia
Awesome! I watched the video, and it looks like the starter is very easily replaceable, and it looks like there is plenty of space to patch any holes in the pan myself... Which has me very relieved and very furious... I think it'd be best to just have AAA bring my truck back home instead of going up there...
Thanks for the lead, I'm now 100% sure I can take care of both problems myself in just a couple of hours.
Thanks for the lead, I'm now 100% sure I can take care of both problems myself in just a couple of hours.
I've used Quik Steel and other epoxy puttys on countless repairs. If you actually do have a true hole in your oil pan -- and not the dip stick flange leak -- clean and scuff the area immediately around the hole and press some in.
Might as well use the entire tube; any I've used only partially then stored hardened in short order. They oughta sell these things, adhesive sealant caulking tubes as well, in half-sized measures.
Please keep us updated on this thread... we're pulling for you.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
For a manual transmission engine replacement, I would rather remove the transmission and flywheel before I pulled the whole cab. It adds a couple hours to the job, but what does it take to remove the cab?
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,448
Likes: 2,934
From: Reed Point, MT
