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Banks intake & DPF back exhaust - impact on regen?
Anyone have any insight to what impact the Banks intake and DPF back exhuast will have on regens?
intake flows air easier and air is more condense…so wouldn’t that make for a better burn and less regen?
DOF back exhaust is supposed to reduce back pressure…so does that mean soot will blow out easier….will the less back pressure confuse the DPF back pressure sensor and make the PCM think there is less soot in the DPF than actual….will regen temps be achieved faster since the oven is getting better air in and out….will passive regens happen easier?
I don't think so either.The programming doesn't change, it will still regen at so many given miles. It might help the regen go quicker with more air flow through it.
The only reason I'd get an 5 inch DPF back tail pipe is for looks. I really wouldn't expect anything to change. Flow might improve some without the factory resonator on the pipe but all in all, it'll still do it's thing whether you have on the factory tail pipe, a 4 inch tail pipe, a 5 inch tail pipe or if there was no tail pipe on there.
I talked to someone from a shop called Far From Stock. Somebody posted about a product they bought and mentioned their name here. I believe they are in Ohio. I called them up and spoke with one of the guys. He told me he's got a 1000+ HP Mustang that flows through a 3 inch exhaust pipe I believe it was. I called to ask if 5 inch was too big for after the DPF. That's when he told me that I could pull off my stock tail pipe, and the truck would still regen. I obviously forget his exact words but the premise is that a 4 inch or 5 inch won't matter as the truck will still regen through any. I told him what I just said, that I wanted a 5 inch pipe with a 6 inch tip for a different look. So if a 3 inch exhaust is good for a 1000 hp plus, then adding on a small piece of the exhaust AFTER the DPF probably wouldn't effect anything the truck was designed and programmed to do.
Everyone's going to have a different take on this fritz... IMO, adding on a CAI and 4/5inch DPF back probably increases flow and gains back the little amount of power lost through flow restrictions. I'm no expert on this, as I've said plenty of times here, just a guy who likes to look schtuff up online. You probably wouldn't know the increase as you won't feel it, without putting the truck on a dyno, but if power will increase a little by adding a higher flowing CAC (when you look at the dyno runs from either Mishimoto or AFE for theirs), I'm sure it increases a little when you add a higher flowing CAI and larger tail pipe. Just thinking out loud...
Bottom line for me, I like the look of a 5 inch tail pipe.
I’ve got both the 5” CAT back as well as the cold air intake from Banks. I can attest that there is no difference to Regen’s, but mileage does seem to be better by about 1-2mpg’s. Virtually no difference in sound. I believe that you could take the pipes off behind the CAT and it would sound the same, you’d just have a CEL since you took a sensor off that is just behind the axle.
As to performance, I feel that I’ve got deleted like performance with keeping all of emissions on.
I’ve got both the 5” CAT back as well as the cold air intake from Banks. I can attest that there is no difference to Regen’s, but mileage does seem to be better by about 1-2mpg’s. Virtually no difference in sound. I believe that you could take the pipes off behind the CAT and it would sound the same, you’d just have a CEL since you took a sensor off that is just behind the axle.
As to performance, I feel that I’ve got deleted like performance with keeping all of emissions on.
Your regens may change with a different turbo compressor wheel designed to flow more than stock. Compared to an Air Intake or DPF back a billet compressor wheel will actually changed how much air the motor gets.
Your regens may change with a different turbo compressor wheel designed to flow more than stock. Compared to an Air Intake or DPF back a billet compressor wheel will actually changed how much air the motor gets.
Yeah, but does it have to be billet? Not trying to be flip, but does that feature have some sort of performance benefit?
The non billet wheel available is the OEM wheel. Billet allows for different blade designs as well as profiles compared to the cast wheels. The different designs can increase top end, increase low end or benefit the entire rpm range.
Ah, I see what you mean; a single CNC'd billet of aluminum. Sorry, I mistook billet to mean some kind of style (as in "billet shifter" or "billet control lever").
Sometimes I truly fit that old saw "reading is fundamental", lol