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Hi all, long time reader but this is my first post to the site. I picked up a 1994 F-150 Ext Cab Flareside, 5.8L Motor, 4x4, 173k miles. Sweet truck, runs great, however it has an issue starting. I believe it to be electronic here's why:
- Key can go into accessory mode, odometer turns on, windows work, fuel pump primes etc, however once turned over to start, everything kicks OFF, starter doesn't crank, nothing.
Now some other key pieces to the puzzle:
- NEW parts: Battery, alternator, starter, starter solenoid, and all battery cables (from battery to solenoid and starter, both positive and negative)
- Truck will fire right up with no issues after battery has a full charge, but then not even an hour later won't start
I was going to test the amps at the battery to see if there was any leeching or draining of the battery going on and if so start pulling fuses to get an idea of where the problem might be.
Am I on the right track? Is it a security system issue? I feel like I am running out of options and would love to get this truck starting again. Thank you in advance for any advice or help.
Last edited by Nswenn; Jun 23, 2022 at 03:55 PM.
Reason: Solved the issue
That's what I thought as well. I cleaned both of the grounds on the negative battery cable when I replaced it (on the frame and block). Also the one on the fender. Are there any other's that I could check?
I'll take a look at both of those, thank you! Is there a way to test to see if the ignition is messed up? I can get it started, but it seems to only want to start on a "just took it off the trickle charger" charge.
I'll take a look at both of those, thank you! Is there a way to test to see if the ignition is messed up? I can get it started, but it seems to only want to start on a "just took it off the trickle charger" charge.
Thanks again
Did you not say that it dies when you let the key go back to the run position? Maybe I read that wrong.
Yes haha I guess that would be a sign of a faulty ignition. To clarify, when going from Lock (Pos 0), to Acc 1, to Acc 2, is completely normal, then when you go to crank it, nothing, odometer shuts off, etc. Then when released from start back to normal acc mode, odometer clicks back on, everything is normal again. Not sure if that would be ignition or not, but maybe it worth the swap.
Yes haha I guess that would be a sign of a faulty ignition. To clarify, when going from Lock (Pos 0), to Acc 1, to Acc 2, is completely normal, then when you go to crank it, nothing, odometer shuts off, etc. Then when released from start back to normal acc mode, odometer clicks back on, everything is normal again. Not sure if that would be ignition or not, but maybe it worth the swap.
I suppose it could be the switch causing a dead short, but it could be a lot of other things also. Just replacing parts to replace parts can introduce other issues. One of the problems is that today's replacement parts can be way worse then the old original ones. Do you still have to original parts? Have you had them tested?
It sounds like something is shorting to ground somewhere.I hate electrical problems.
I suppose it could be the switch causing a dead short, but it could be a lot of other things also. Just replacing parts to replace parts can introduce other issues. One of the problems is that today's replacement parts can be way worse then the old original ones. Do you still have to original parts? Have you had them tested?
It sounds like something is shorting to ground somewhere.I hate electrical problems.
I agree electrical stuff is the worst. Gonna try and get to it today.
The original parts were tested and I was probably going to replace them soon anyways. I saw someone with a similar issue run an extra ground from the negative post to one of the bolts that holds the alternator down. Might give that a shot as well.
Thanks again for the help, hopefully I figure it out.
Now some other key pieces to the puzzle:
- NEW parts: Battery, alternator, starter, starter solenoid, and all battery cables (from battery to solenoid and starter, both positive and negative)
- Truck will fire right up with no issues after battery has a full charge, but then not even an hour later won't start
That sounds like either you have a very heavy draw on the battery somewhere OR more likely your NEW battery is defective.
" I was going to test the amps at the battery to see if there was any leeching or draining of the battery going on and if so start pulling fuses to get an idea of where the problem might be.
Am I on the right track? Is it a security system issue? I feel like I am running out of options and would love to get this truck starting again. Thank you in advance for any advice or help."
Charge your battery with the pos. wire off. Do you know how to do a Parasitic Draw Test with a Multimeter? On occasion, a battery may experience significant drain long after the engine has been shut off. The result can often lead to a flat, caused not by a faulty battery or through something obvious like the headlights being left on. It typically happens due to a short circuit that can be tricky to pin down. I can step you through it if you like.
To test for parasitic draw with a multi-meter, remove the negative battery cable from the negative battery post and hook the multi-meter between the now bare negative battery post and the disconnected cable. Or I just do the same thing with a test light, if the light lights the draw is too much.
Excuse me for asking, Airborne 82nd, are you helping Nswenn, or do you have 2 usernames?
I checked all of those grounds and they were solid, thank you for that link! Do you know if they make a new start wire or how I might replace that? Not sure where that one leads...
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[SOLVED] PLEASE HELP Truck Won't Start
