Oil Pressure Sender vs Oil Pressure Switch - a little help!
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Salem
Oil Pressure Sender vs Oil Pressure Switch - a little help!
It seems the world has gotten confused on the difference of a oil pressure sender (to gauge) vs an oil pressure switch (to light). Long and the short is I have a stock oil gauge and need the correct sender to the gauge. My truck came stock with an oil light and is wired as such. In addition to a different sender, do I need to change any wiring?
Any leads to purchasing correct sending unit are appreciated as well. Thanks all!
Any leads to purchasing correct sending unit are appreciated as well. Thanks all!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy Brian,
If you're going to keep the pressure light, if one is not already there, you'll need to add another wire for the temp sender.
The pressure sender is basically a variable resistor that has one side already connected to ground (via it's outer pipe, or straight-thread body screwed into the block)
If you were to "short" the pressure sender wire to ground, the gage would go the full scale. Same with the pressure switch for the light. It simply goes to ground below a certain pressure (usually around 3-10 psi depending on the switch) The actual oil pressure light always has (ign switched) 12V on one side and the other side connected to the sender which completes the circuit to ground until the engine produces enough pressure to open the switch.
So in a nutshell, you need an additional wire for a gage to connect to the gage sender assuming you still want the light to work. If you don't want to continue using the light, then use that wire for the gage. If it's me, I would use both and I'd also add a piezoelectric buzzer/beeper to the light circuit to make a loud enough noise to get your attention in the event of oil pressure loss (and you don't immediately notice the light)
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/sound/sounder
By the way, I think I still have the original temp sender for my 55 if you want it.
Cheers,
Rick
If you're going to keep the pressure light, if one is not already there, you'll need to add another wire for the temp sender.
The pressure sender is basically a variable resistor that has one side already connected to ground (via it's outer pipe, or straight-thread body screwed into the block)
If you were to "short" the pressure sender wire to ground, the gage would go the full scale. Same with the pressure switch for the light. It simply goes to ground below a certain pressure (usually around 3-10 psi depending on the switch) The actual oil pressure light always has (ign switched) 12V on one side and the other side connected to the sender which completes the circuit to ground until the engine produces enough pressure to open the switch.
So in a nutshell, you need an additional wire for a gage to connect to the gage sender assuming you still want the light to work. If you don't want to continue using the light, then use that wire for the gage. If it's me, I would use both and I'd also add a piezoelectric buzzer/beeper to the light circuit to make a loud enough noise to get your attention in the event of oil pressure loss (and you don't immediately notice the light)
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/sound/sounder
By the way, I think I still have the original temp sender for my 55 if you want it.
Cheers,
Rick
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 716
Likes: 78
From: Salem
Howdy Brian,
If you're going to keep the pressure light, if one is not already there, you'll need to add another wire for the temp sender.
The pressure sender is basically a variable resistor that has one side already connected to ground (via it's outer pipe, or straight-thread body screwed into the block)
If you were to "short" the pressure sender wire to ground, the gage would go the full scale. Same with the pressure switch for the light. It simply goes to ground below a certain pressure (usually around 3-10 psi depending on the switch) The actual oil pressure light always has (ign switched) 12V on one side and the other side connected to the sender which completes the circuit to ground until the engine produces enough pressure to open the switch.
So in a nutshell, you need an additional wire for a gage to connect to the gage sender assuming you still want the light to work. If you don't want to continue using the light, then use that wire for the gage. If it's me, I would use both and I'd also add a piezoelectric buzzer/beeper to the light circuit to make a loud enough noise to get your attention in the event of oil pressure loss (and you don't immediately notice the light)
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/sound/sounder
By the way, I think I still have the original temp sender for my 55 if you want it.
Cheers,
Rick
If you're going to keep the pressure light, if one is not already there, you'll need to add another wire for the temp sender.
The pressure sender is basically a variable resistor that has one side already connected to ground (via it's outer pipe, or straight-thread body screwed into the block)
If you were to "short" the pressure sender wire to ground, the gage would go the full scale. Same with the pressure switch for the light. It simply goes to ground below a certain pressure (usually around 3-10 psi depending on the switch) The actual oil pressure light always has (ign switched) 12V on one side and the other side connected to the sender which completes the circuit to ground until the engine produces enough pressure to open the switch.
So in a nutshell, you need an additional wire for a gage to connect to the gage sender assuming you still want the light to work. If you don't want to continue using the light, then use that wire for the gage. If it's me, I would use both and I'd also add a piezoelectric buzzer/beeper to the light circuit to make a loud enough noise to get your attention in the event of oil pressure loss (and you don't immediately notice the light)
https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/sound/sounder
By the way, I think I still have the original temp sender for my 55 if you want it.
Cheers,
Rick
Copy on the wiring - sounds like I am good to go as my truck came with a oil light, and I'm just installing an oil gauge in its place. I do still need to find the oil gauge sender - I have three of the oil light senders.... If it would ever stop snowing here I might actually get some work done on the old truck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Thanks Rick! Hope you doing well!
Copy on the wiring - sounds like I am good to go as my truck came with a oil light, and I'm just installing an oil gauge in its place. I do still need to find the oil gauge sender - I have three of the oil light senders.... If it would ever stop snowing here I might actually get some work done on the old truck.
Copy on the wiring - sounds like I am good to go as my truck came with a oil light, and I'm just installing an oil gauge in its place. I do still need to find the oil gauge sender - I have three of the oil light senders.... If it would ever stop snowing here I might actually get some work done on the old truck.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 716
Likes: 78
From: Salem
Yes - removing the stock oil light and installing a 1954 stock oil gauge that fits right into the same place in the dash cluster. The oil gauge sender I'm looking for is electric rather than the tube type that some old oil gauges had.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
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