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Are the fans aftermarket fans? If they are, you'll get much more dependable fans if you use fans that came from the factory on an oem car/truck.
If they are aftermarket, go on the co's site and get a wiring diagram. If they are GM/Ford etc oem fans, there are loads of threads about the intall. Do a search
on this forum and you'll find plenty with relay and wiring info.
Hopefully the OP didn't buy one of the Ebay radiators that come with the dual fans and the flat shroud. They offer no cooling ability and the shroud doesn't allow even airflow.
Couple different ways to skin the cat…. But in a nutshell you’ll have two different circuits going through the relay. The line(coming from battery supply)with 30A fuse feeding the relay, going to load(positive leads on the fans) coming out of the relay. The control side can be done a couple of ways, but most aftermarkets I’ve seen have a hot lead coming from switched power, to the thermostat switch mounted in the radiator core, feeding the positive to the relay control. They also usually have another lead tied into this terminal (with a diode to prevent back flow) that allows a manual override switch to be used to bypass the thermostatic switch. They’re pretty simple.
Couple different ways to skin the cat…. But in a nutshell you’ll have two different circuits going through the relay. The line(coming from battery supply)with 30A fuse feeding the relay, going to load(positive leads on the fans) coming out of the relay. The control side can be done a couple of ways, but most aftermarkets I’ve seen have a hot lead coming from switched power, to the thermostat switch mounted in the radiator core, feeding the positive to the relay control. They also usually have another lead tied into this terminal (with a diode to prevent back flow) that allows a manual override switch to be used to bypass the thermostatic switch. They’re pretty simple.
Depends on the fans if they are single or multi speed. There is also often often requirement to lag one fan from the other due to start up load and if you have AC there needs to be a temp override.
I thought I might try to save you some time and money. Imo, the best thing you could do would be to purchase a Taurus fan, a volvo relay pack to control it, a bmw thermo switch to signal the controller, and a nice 40 amp Beuller relay and an inline fuse to make it all work.
That Taurus fan will cool circles around most aftermarket fans...for a fraction of the price.
The down side to an E fan is that you usually have to upgrade your alternator to supply the needed juice. Tip: Use good quality 10ga wire for the hot leads. Solder all connections to avoid loose/faulty connections.
On my Fox 5.0 Mustang, I got a Taurus fan from the junk yard, along with a Ford 30 or 40 amp relay with socket and pigtail - and yes, that relay was for the radiator fan on the car I pulled it from.
Then I got a cheap ~$17 controller from the McParts store and wired it all up.
Instead of poking the controller's temperature probe through the radiator core, I sandwiched it against a radiator hose. Lower hose is said to be better, but I used the upper, due to space/reach constraints. It's been working for over five years now.
On my Fox 5.0 Mustang, I got a Taurus fan from the junk yard, along with a Ford 30 or 40 amp relay with socket and pigtail - and yes, that relay was for the radiator fan on the car I pulled it from.
Then I got a cheap ~$17 controller from the McParts store and wired it all up.
Instead of poking the controller's temperature probe through the radiator core, I sandwiched it against a radiator hose. Lower hose is said to be better, but I used the upper, due to space/reach constraints. It's been working for over five years now.
Excellent! I'm glad it worked great for you. I had one of those adjustable controllers too, with the radiator probe. It worked great, until I wanted to use a two speed fan. That was why I mentioned the BMW thermo switch and the Volvo controller. The bmw switch sits either in the thermostat housing, on the radiator, or you can purchase an inline sleeve that will get put in the top radiator hose. You can purchase that sleeve for the bmw thermo switch on ebay or amazon for $10-$20. It has low and high. Used in conjunction with the Volvo controller, it turns your fan on automatically when the temp reaches a certain temp, and turns it off when the temp drops. If, however, the temp continues to climb as with towing/hauling, etc., the switch sends a signal to the Volvo controller. It then turns off the low speed on the fan, and turns on the high speed. You should never have both speed live simultaneously.
I wanted the extra cooling capability of a two speed fan. This system is the least expensive way to get it.
Mioakes3008
I do not know what engine you have BUT
I installed a Champion 4 core alum. rad. with the 2 fans in my 79 250 300 6.
Problem was it would not get hot enough with both fans running. I think too much rad for the little 6 cyl.
I ended up installing a manual switch inside cab to control one fan.
Now the one fan comes on at 195 and all is well.
If I need the extra cooling, I just flip toggle sw. I also installed 2 small indicator lights so I know at least power is at the fan motor.
The main fan works off the temp sensor in the thermostat housing. I changed my t stat housing to a 83 or so I think as they have two threaded ports, one for the fan sensor and other one for temp gauge as in my opinion that is the best temp reading as water is returning to rad.
Just my .02 worth of ideas...
Mioakes3008
I do not know what engine you have BUT
I installed a Champion 4 core alum. rad. with the 2 fans in my 79 250 300 6.
Problem was it would not get hot enough with both fans running. I think too much rad for the little 6 cyl.
I ended up installing a manual switch inside cab to control one fan.
Now the one fan comes on at 195 and all is well.
If I need the extra cooling, I just flip toggle sw. I also installed 2 small indicator lights so I know at least power is at the fan motor.
The main fan works off the temp sensor in the thermostat housing. I changed my t stat housing to a 83 or so I think as they have two threaded ports, one for the fan sensor and other one for temp gauge as in my opinion that is the best temp reading as water is returning to rad.
Just my .02 worth of ideas...
A good electrical fan system should be set up so that the fans only turn on when the engine temp gets a few degrees warmer than the thermostat. If you're using a 195* thermostat, for example, then the fans should come by about 205*. The fans cool the coolant in the radiator, and that is pumped into the engine and cools the engine. When the coolant/engine cools off to the set level of your thermo switch, the fans turn off until they are needed again. The fans cool the coolant down to under the temp of your thermostat. Then, the cycle begins again.
Install one of these (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/...SABEgIul_D_BwE) in your thermostat housing or buy a sleeve to install it inline in your upper radiator hose. I run a 195* thermostat on my I6 300. The fans (dual) stay off until the engine temp reaches 200*. Then they turn on and in about 2 minutes the engine temp drops to about 190* and the fans turn off. When I'm cruising down the road then fans never turn on. The air thru the radiator is keeping the engine cool. It works great. Below is the sleeve:
The above switch activates the Volvo controller, below.
Attachment 278983 This costs about $15-$20 in the junk yard. Good luck. If you want to get rid of the toggle in the cab, The components I mentioned will create a fully automatic system. Heck, if your dual fans are single speed, then go to autoparts usa and grab one of the cheap, adjustable controllers with the poke in the radiator probe, but instead of ruining your nice alumimun radiator, tape it to the to hose to transfer the heat. Then you can watch the engine temp slowly climb and set your controller to turn on when you like.
If your engine is not reaching the thermostat temp, then either you have a bad thermostat, or your fans are running when they shouldn't be running. Good luck.
Oh, a bit of wisdom for the autocoolguy train of thoughters who think you should have the temp switch on the lower hose to monitor the radiator temp instead of the engine. To them I say the radiator costs ... maybe $300. The engine cost me $5,000 to rebuild. I'll stick with monitoring the engine temp. TY very much.
Works as advertised, just follow the instructions and it's a quick install. More time was spent fabricating the mounts for the mk viii fan I installed (really a Dorman remake:
If you have questions he responds pretty quickly: autocoolguy@yahoo.com I had asked him about how to wire the 2 speed fan and how water resistant the controller was and his response was:
We use a Mark VIII fan on the
bench for testing controllers.
We use the high and ground
wires only for testing
Other fan companies have tied the
low and high together but not Ford.
We have seen this in their data sheet.
Our pc boards are coated with a clear
lacquer and the case will not hold water.
Just do not put a garden hose into it
to clean out debris.
I have submerged the III into a pale of
water running and it recovered without
failure.
Oh and in case someone stumbles upon this also looking to install a mkvii/dorman 620-118 fan here is a video and some pictures of brackets that I found here on the forums of other people's solutions.. I went the angle-iron route and welded tabs to attach to the stock fan mount tabs.
The easiest route is just angle iron across the top and bottom and screwing the fan to that:
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